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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

I didn't do a proper torque on the body mounts. My body pucks are a mix of oem rubber on the bottom and poly on the top.

I tightened till I got a nice mild squish on the rubber.
Going to recheck them in the near future
 
Wes Harden said:
I didn't do a proper torque on the body mounts. My body pucks are a mix of oem rubber on the bottom and poly on the top.

I tightened till I got a nice mild squish on the rubber.
Going to recheck them in the near future
Click to expand...
10-4 i need to look up proper torq, was none in my instructions just said refer to factory specs.
 
imiceman44 said:
The PEX fix is the best, easiest fix for strikers and it is cheap too.
You cut the proper length, you slice it length wise, and you slip it on.
Works like a charm
Click to expand...
I've always used cpcv.
 
I ordered an ARB CKMA12, with a kit, that includes wiring loom, hose, and few other odds and ends.
Now I'll need to find place to install it.
 
Haven't done much but gas and drive last few months. Since my off road outing with @ZooMad75, I did pick up an ARB on board air system. Where to put it. Thinking the front left inner fender. I have added a few things, plus what the po added, to inner fender already, a redesign is in order. A component "deck/tray" is in order. Having little in the way sheet metal tools and experience, I searched for a ready made tray, came up empty. Few days later I am taking an old crt tv down from the back patio, and almost tossed the the tray it was sitting on then thought this is just what i need for the burb. Started a mock up. I over did it yesterday with some yard work and detailing my daughters car. So today is chill/Advil time.

Two photos the mock up, and the new front yard feature.

IMG_20220401_154159.jpg

IMG_20220401_154710.jpg
 
Well a bit of Bitch here. So I put a re-manufactured rack and pinion in my daughters car. I swapped her car for my wife car so I could do a lot of work to it. Daughter came and switched back 1st weekend in April, went to cali to visit friends and family, then back to Phoenix. It failed week ago Monday. Last Friday wife and I go Phoenix, to get it. I ordered the rack before we left Phoenix Friday eve. That got screwed up and I had to reorder another, but fortunately I was still able to get it today.

So today I fire up the Burb head down to parts store, @ 3.5 miles one way. It's in the mid 90's here, truck is closed up in the sun, hot inside. Fire up the front and rear a/c. (not working as well as I'd like) Get there grap my goods, head home to start this job. I get @ 2 miles and the truck just shuts off, won't restart, cranks, but could be faster.
I am blocking traffic I guy pulls me into a near by lot and I get to work.
So I check spark It has spark, but kinda weak redish color. Sparks with this test tool which is a huge gap. https://smile.amazon.com/Stens-750-018-Ignition-Designed-exclusively/dp/B001OK6MIO/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2B18VIBQE7MVH&keywords=spark+tester&qid=1650416203&sprefix=spark+tester,aps,185&sr=8-10

Put plug wire back go to see if it starts, wont crank. wtf. I have a solenoid on fire wall I can jump to crank engine. Short it with pocket screwdriver nothing. I didn't have a volt meter or test light with me. So I jumper cable from aux battery to main battery, hit the key and it cranks. Get it fired up closed up, leave everything off and get home.
Get home and through a volt meter on at main battery and I have 13.5 volts. 12.5v at battery, eng off. Both batteries charging. My engine idles @550 rpm with a/c on and maybe 625 w/o. Even driving with od locked out max rpm is 2200, and never for very long, sure 1st and 2nd can get up there but not enough.
I set my idle screw to 1450 rpm, 2 batteries, 1 electric fan and fuel pump, charging 13.7v. Turn both a/c on high, which adds 2nd electric cooling fan, charging voltage is 13.3.
This is 105 amp si12 alt I got new from Speedway motors @ 2yrs. I haven't tried the 8ga charge wire, gonna try to get to that while doing rack and pinion on daughters car.
Also thinking I need to put some more of the load on aux bat.

So while I am doing all this checking, I notice oil drops on the floor from in front of radiator where my oil cooler is mounted. Roll under and look, fittings are all dry, hoses look dry,
Some Bischt oil cooler is cracked. Not sure why, maybe I have it on a bind. Going to have to explore this. I thought cooler was quality product is a Derale 51610 cooler.

IMG_20220419_170709.jpg
 
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Sucks for sure. I guess that even good companies have bad days, but that doesn't ease the pain.
And it is very difficult to find good quality anymore. I get my electrical parts through @500$k5 because he checks them with an oscilloscope. But even he has seen the change in the world nowadays.
I have smiled in the past to watch digital voltmeter be above 14 all flipping day in
Moab. (Unless I lugged it enough to drop to 13.8) I believe that could be a challenge to maintain for some.
 
Thinking about oil cooler failure. I am wondering if the hoses are vibrating, and caused the failure. AN-10 fittings and hose could get some good leverage going. I do have them clamped together and pathed through the cross member with a clamp there. Also clamped at Motor mount. But nothing where the hoses turn and come to cooler.
 
Wes Harden said:
What alt are you running ?
Click to expand...
I have CS130 alternators with Iceberg cases on my '90, the '70 big block and the '72 small block. So one serpentine and 2 V belt. Had one on the '72 K5 as well, with serpentine.
The Iceberg case uses bigger bearings and has cooling fins at the rectifier.
 
Nice, thou am not a fan of cs130. Nor do I want to go to another fan belt configuration.
Going to try the better wiring, mine is still factoryish and 45years old
 
Wes Harden said:
Nice, thou am not a fan of cs130. Nor do I want to go to another fan belt configuration.
Going to try the better wiring, mine is still factoryish and 45years old
Click to expand...
You don't need to change the belt configuration. My 2 old trucks are V belts. So they are J mount.
And the reason that you probably don't care for the CS130 is because of the reasons that the Iceberg case was designed. Add in any poor quality rebuild units, and yeah, bad reputation.
They put out more amps at a lower rpm than the SI series. We tested the one on my big block which has stock pullies for an '85, it puts out 100 amps at 1100 engine rpm, with 110 peak with a cold alternator. Stock internals. The air gap between the rotor and stator is tighter which provides better performance than the SI.
 
You sourced this alt from @500$k5 ?

I must have miss read earlier post. I was thinking you had a double v belt on alt.
 
Wes Harden said:
You sourced this alt from @500$k5 ?

I must have miss read earlier post. I was thinking you had a double v belt on alt.
Click to expand...
Yes, his business is automotive electrical. Starters, alternators and wiring.
My 2 old trucks are single V belt on the alternators. Bar stock pullies, not stamped.

Western Alternator
970 240 9273
 
I got my Burb up on a 2 post for the first time. I was just testing the lift. But while checking things out I noticed the P brake cable rear sections are limiting my droop.
Who do we use for longer P brake cable sheaths ?

Working on new alt wiring, didn't find what I expected at junction block on firewall. While I appreciate the effort to scan and post these http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=11766.0 I think there are some missing, Or GM miss printed the manual. I am going to go break out my manuals and see what I can find.

Specifically bulk head connector 2E I see it under hood but no where on any other diagram, If any one care to try
 
I was checking the cooler line routing trying to figure out why the cooler cracked. I don't think the hose flexing/vibrations is it there is very little movement.
Maybe I need a strain loop??
 
Yes I am going to grab some pics today. The replacement should be here today.
 
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