I always put those on rubber mounts for that reason
CK5
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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
I know I have some of the 1/4" stud rubber pucks, but can I find them?? No.
Here are some pics of current mounting.
Any pointers, recommendations, or flat out do it this way
Welcome.
Cooler has 9 or 10 months of use.
Here are some pics of current mounting.
Any pointers, recommendations, or flat out do it this way
Welcome.
Cooler has 9 or 10 months of use.
Found it, now did happen because my brackets were stretching the cooler, or did the frame twist and doil it.
You have it hooked to the frame and the body, from what I see.
Rubber body mounts let the body and frame move separately.
Mount it completely on the body.
That make sense. Factory is that way.
I believe that way the body mounts reduce the vibrations into the cooler. Further isolation with rubber goes another step further. Just like the radiator and condenser.
Yesterday I started to up gauge my main power lead to alternator.
I disconnected both ends alt and firewall bus bar.
The lead at bus bar that feeds the alt has double terminal that connects both studs at the bus bar. There is also a splice somewhere in that circuit that feeds at least the lights and courtesy circuits.
I left the original alternator feed in place and added a 6 gauge to battery feed at auxiliary solenoid.
I do need to add some type of circuit protection. Thinking a maxi fuse of some type.
I also realized what a crappy job the po had done when the aux solenoid was installed.
The original 12 gauge wire was cut 3" from bulkhead connector, and spliced to a 16 gauge wire to activate the solenoid.
Well I fished the whole wire out, got the Packard type 56 male spade out bulkhead connector, removed terminal from old wire, since I can't find my male type 56.
And made a complete new wire. I had to use 14 ga wire, out of 12ga in any color. I had purple in 14 so that's what it gets. No spices, good crimps, with solder, and heat shrink
I disconnected both ends alt and firewall bus bar.
The lead at bus bar that feeds the alt has double terminal that connects both studs at the bus bar. There is also a splice somewhere in that circuit that feeds at least the lights and courtesy circuits.
I left the original alternator feed in place and added a 6 gauge to battery feed at auxiliary solenoid.
I do need to add some type of circuit protection. Thinking a maxi fuse of some type.
I also realized what a crappy job the po had done when the aux solenoid was installed.
The original 12 gauge wire was cut 3" from bulkhead connector, and spliced to a 16 gauge wire to activate the solenoid.
Well I fished the whole wire out, got the Packard type 56 male spade out bulkhead connector, removed terminal from old wire, since I can't find my male type 56.
And made a complete new wire. I had to use 14 ga wire, out of 12ga in any color. I had purple in 14 so that's what it gets. No spices, good crimps, with solder, and heat shrink
Back on the cooler
I try to mount them always with rubber, and make sure the bolts line up on one axis as much as possible
Use some kind of support on the lines also, as their movement is enough to cause that even if the cooler has movement
I try to mount them always with rubber, and make sure the bolts line up on one axis as much as possible
Use some kind of support on the lines also, as their movement is enough to cause that even if the cooler has movement
Will have to redo at least one line. Not sure I have enough -10 braided hose atm
Might have to remove the whole deal until I can redo it.
Might have to remove the whole deal until I can redo it.
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I am unclear of why you say this.
Is it possible to run some angle iron from the bottom, or front of the radiator support out to the valance panel below the grille? Then mount the cooler to that? It isn't the most perfect thing, but the center support for the valance panel and grille should help carry the weight.
You shouldn't have to move the cooler any, just make a bridge for it to mount on.
I will explore that, but when I posted about making a new hose, I was in easy chair, and thinking I would need to move up to behind grill
Well it's done, not pretty, but I think it will work. I have real isolators ordered, spent half the day searching for some I know I have.
The rubbers in picture are shock isolators, 2 new and 2 used, minic the double stud isolators coming.
Comments, suggestions welcome.
Thanks @6872xtc I don't think I would have gone to valance if you had not suggested it. 2 1/4" holes behind winch, and I painted them same as bumper.
The rubbers in picture are shock isolators, 2 new and 2 used, minic the double stud isolators coming.
Comments, suggestions welcome.
Thanks @6872xtc I don't think I would have gone to valance if you had not suggested it. 2 1/4" holes behind winch, and I painted them same as bumper.
Changed oil, lubed all the zerks. Put an ORD kevlar tie rod end boot on pitman side of drag link, old one was mia. Additional adel clamp on trans cooler lines. Replaced missing fastener in tail pipe hanger.
Fired up no drips from oil cooler.
Check charging with lights on and one battery 14.6 at idle. I did up the idle to @750 in park.
Turned on everything, meter showed 12.7, blip the throttle and got 13.4 at less than 750 RPM. (Ac on) if I have time tomorrow I will add in the power signal to step motor will help with ac RPM.
Bumped up the timing just a smidge, topped of the ac freon, added 12oz, probably could have used a few more. Was done last June, so I have a small leak. I just might bite the bullet and convert to r134a.
Went for a 20 mile test drive. Did well. Gonna leave the timing in it.
Prep for a road trip to @Capt Ron and @Bent77, maybe a few other CK5 Pepsi, and possibly ORD.
Hey can I wear my shorts and flip flops in Co. This week or is it gonna snow
Fired up no drips from oil cooler.
Check charging with lights on and one battery 14.6 at idle. I did up the idle to @750 in park.
Turned on everything, meter showed 12.7, blip the throttle and got 13.4 at less than 750 RPM. (Ac on) if I have time tomorrow I will add in the power signal to step motor will help with ac RPM.
Bumped up the timing just a smidge, topped of the ac freon, added 12oz, probably could have used a few more. Was done last June, so I have a small leak. I just might bite the bullet and convert to r134a.
Went for a 20 mile test drive. Did well. Gonna leave the timing in it.
Prep for a road trip to @Capt Ron and @Bent77, maybe a few other CK5 Pepsi, and possibly ORD.
Hey can I wear my shorts and flip flops in Co. This week or is it gonna snow
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I’m not too far from Ron’s place so I can meet up after work.
I did add the power signal to idle step solenoid. 1 wire tied into ac relay, is all I needed to do. Could I? No. I had to sperate the electric condenser fan from the ac coil,and step solenoid. Added a relay just for condenser fan.
Here is a picture of spaghetti mess for posterity
Pretty sure the step solenoid came off a carb @Big Ray sent me. Thanks brother works great.
Here is a picture of spaghetti mess for posterity
Pretty sure the step solenoid came off a carb @Big Ray sent me. Thanks brother works great.
Since I was going to get into the dash, to replace Voltmeter, I order some new vent regulators. All of mine flopped anywhere they cared, half of the fin went different directions.
Also ordered a fan switch, all from LMC. The regulators are nice chrome looks good same size, fins are tight, pleasantly surprised. Fan switch was not right, only 1 possible choice, so I wrote them this morning with pictures and wiring diagram see what they say.
So Voltmeter i got from @Bent77 looks good in IP cluster and works nicely. I got the driver side vents in yesterday. I also tried some led 194 bulbs that I thought were dim-able, that were sourced from amazon, nope. $10.00 for 30 was to good to be true.
Some pics for we photo hoe's
First is low electric load, no ac, at @1500rpm. 2nd is high load at similar rpm.
edit being a little rushed yesterday, I see now the terminal I am missing is t joined to #1 terminal I can put the 2 wires on that terminal.
also note no flip flops
Also ordered a fan switch, all from LMC. The regulators are nice chrome looks good same size, fins are tight, pleasantly surprised. Fan switch was not right, only 1 possible choice, so I wrote them this morning with pictures and wiring diagram see what they say.
So Voltmeter i got from @Bent77 looks good in IP cluster and works nicely. I got the driver side vents in yesterday. I also tried some led 194 bulbs that I thought were dim-able, that were sourced from amazon, nope. $10.00 for 30 was to good to be true.
Some pics for we photo hoe's
First is low electric load, no ac, at @1500rpm. 2nd is high load at similar rpm.
edit being a little rushed yesterday, I see now the terminal I am missing is t joined to #1 terminal I can put the 2 wires on that terminal.
also note no flip flops
The lying vendors (no bones about it, almost always chinese) bother the hell out of me.
If Amazon is anything like eBay, file a complaint, tell them the vendor lied and they are not as advertised. Don't let these jerks take your money. You learning a lesson from $10 is exactly what they bank on, making $10 from thousands of people that don't fight back is lucrative even in the short term.
With eBay the *seller* is responsible for return shipping, or crediting you what you paid for a mis-represented product. I've gotten a fair number of products "free" that way, since the products are worth nowhere near what the return shipping costs most of the time. I'm willing to take a chance on "too good to be true" if it can be easily proven their listing/description was false.
I'm always leery of "dimmable" LED's. The proper way to dim LED's is with PWM, and it seems SOME get away with being able to use the stock dimmer with LED's, but that wasn't the case for me. PWM dimmers are easy and cheap to source, and honestly pretty easy to deal with, so I added one to my cluster. I've never found that I need to "dim" my cluster lights. I had to add one LED to the cluster to better illuminate the speedometer, but once that dim spot was better lit, I set the dimmer to a level that works under all conditions and forgot about dimming.
I'm sure most newer cars integrate a daylight sensor to auto-dim/brighten gauges, but I don't see going that far lol, even though it's probably easy to add as well.
Yes I would do that. I went back and re read the the description, they did not claim dimmable nor list them for instrument panel use. Everything but.
I will add a review that says not dimmable.
I will add a review that says not dimmable.
So since last update, burb has been to Phoenix and back is now in Ca with me at my Brother's house while I do maintenance to our coach.
Phoenix trip I had front ac issues. The high blower relay failed and I had some melty wires. Stop gap fix I made a jumper. 10 ga wire female spade alligator clip, blower to battery.
Ended up frying the noise filter at the blower with the sparks, over multiple connections.
Not sure if I will replace,. I thought it was aftermarket, but it may be factory. When I got home and repaired the melty wires, the purple blower wire was to short. I had to make a new one to fit w/o noise filter. So front a/c working as designed, 4 fan speeds.
The drive home from Phoenix, I got 10.1 mpg new record. It had been a long day and I was tired so drove very mild.
On the trip to Ca, I left at noon, 104ish out. Had both a/c running.
At cruise volt meter showed just over 13v, at idle well under 13v.
So I gave @500$k5 a call and ordered the alt @6872xtc spoke of earlier in this thread. Will be waiting for me when I get home.
Back to the drive to Ca.
Cruising along @75 on I-40, I am starting to smell something, at first I thought trans oil smoking off exhaust, the it changed to be little electrical, I noticed a slight haz in cab. Oh S%^@. Shut off both ac and roll down window.
Cruise about 20 miles, no smell haz clears away, try the both ac again yup smell back, system off.
Got my pup with me she needs a break, so I stop at Kelbaker Rd, nice spot not to far from i40 away from the road pup can run around unattended, while I inspect the front ac wiring I had just repaired day before. All looked fine, blower motor case was cool and no sign of melt.
Get pup back on the road and only use front ac, volt meter sits at 13.7v, maybe a smidge higher. No haz or smell.
Next day check out rear air, I can see that blower motor case has been very hot, doesn't surprise me, records with truck show early 80s install of aftermarket rear air.
I ordered a new blower motor and 2 fan cage from Rockauto, should arrive today. Now to find the time to replace. I might be looking for a new rear air dash switch, not sure if the hi amp draw as motor failed damaged it.
Don't recall seeing 1 on lmc, even if they do not sure I'd buy it.
I sent LMC an e mail re the front blower motor switch, with pictures. They replied quickly, then said had been forwarded to the engineers, nothing since.
Well time to start doing stuff.
Phoenix trip I had front ac issues. The high blower relay failed and I had some melty wires. Stop gap fix I made a jumper. 10 ga wire female spade alligator clip, blower to battery.
Ended up frying the noise filter at the blower with the sparks, over multiple connections.
Not sure if I will replace,. I thought it was aftermarket, but it may be factory. When I got home and repaired the melty wires, the purple blower wire was to short. I had to make a new one to fit w/o noise filter. So front a/c working as designed, 4 fan speeds.
The drive home from Phoenix, I got 10.1 mpg new record. It had been a long day and I was tired so drove very mild.
On the trip to Ca, I left at noon, 104ish out. Had both a/c running.
At cruise volt meter showed just over 13v, at idle well under 13v.
So I gave @500$k5 a call and ordered the alt @6872xtc spoke of earlier in this thread. Will be waiting for me when I get home.
Back to the drive to Ca.
Cruising along @75 on I-40, I am starting to smell something, at first I thought trans oil smoking off exhaust, the it changed to be little electrical, I noticed a slight haz in cab. Oh S%^@. Shut off both ac and roll down window.
Cruise about 20 miles, no smell haz clears away, try the both ac again yup smell back, system off.
Got my pup with me she needs a break, so I stop at Kelbaker Rd, nice spot not to far from i40 away from the road pup can run around unattended, while I inspect the front ac wiring I had just repaired day before. All looked fine, blower motor case was cool and no sign of melt.
Get pup back on the road and only use front ac, volt meter sits at 13.7v, maybe a smidge higher. No haz or smell.
Next day check out rear air, I can see that blower motor case has been very hot, doesn't surprise me, records with truck show early 80s install of aftermarket rear air.
I ordered a new blower motor and 2 fan cage from Rockauto, should arrive today. Now to find the time to replace. I might be looking for a new rear air dash switch, not sure if the hi amp draw as motor failed damaged it.
Don't recall seeing 1 on lmc, even if they do not sure I'd buy it.
I sent LMC an e mail re the front blower motor switch, with pictures. They replied quickly, then said had been forwarded to the engineers, nothing since.
Well time to start doing stuff.
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