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what do you guys think of this efi kit?

Ned Kelly said:
That said, looks like the $795 unit is a little too bare bones to be worthwhile. Better to spend $200 more on the next higher up Fitech units that will control timing.
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This right here is why its hard to keep an old school engine. $795 turns to $995 plus, plus, plus, plus. All of a sudden you have 2-3k wrapped up in an aftermarket EFI with a 190-250 HP engine that is finicky and requires a direct link to customer service.
 
I am waiting to see what holley comes out with too. They tried to buy the compatition and where told to jump a stump.
 
Team208Motorsports said:
This right here is why its hard to keep an old school engine. $795 turns to $995 plus, plus, plus, plus. All of a sudden you have 2-3k wrapped up
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I'm curious, has anyone ever priced out a stock TBI swap, complete? It's the same thing, always ends up nickel and diming you to death, I'm just curious what that would run vs. an aftermarket setup vs. an LS swap.

For sure, to swap out the fuse panel and under-dash wiring sucks up some serious time, which for most of us, should really be factored in to the "cost" of a swap.

I assume LS stands to get a bit more pricey due to the drivetrain/frame hardware that needs purchased.
 
dyeager535 said:
I'm curious, has anyone ever priced out a stock TBI swap, complete? It's the same thing, always ends up nickel and diming you to death, I'm just curious what that would run vs. an aftermarket setup vs. an LS swap.

For sure, to swap out the fuse panel and under-dash wiring sucks up some serious time, which for most of us, should really be factored in to the "cost" of a swap.

I assume LS stands to get a bit more pricey due to the drivetrain/frame hardware that needs purchased.
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I've never priced out every single component of tbi but an off the shelf kit like howell seems to run at least $1000. The universal v8 one is $1400.

I've seen quite a few tbi pulloffs go for $250-$500 on ebay. I scored one for $100 of Craigslist though. None of those components are new of course.

For my situation I have a "carb era" wiring harness ready to go and the fitech is geared toward that so I don't see how it could cost me a whole lot more than the unit itself...again I don't need anything other then the low end kit.

I guess if you had an 3rd Gen motor withot the fueling items it'd probably be close to the price of that tbi kit I mentioned above. Maybe more, I've never put one together.
 
Fuel pump, sending unit, assorted fittings/hose/metal line depending on how you do the fuel lines, fuel tank, relays, additional fuse panel, I'm sure a ton of stuff I'm forgetting, there always is. :)

I guess for $400 you can "solve" the fuel issue, but now you run two fuel pumps, and being "returnless", I see vapor lock being a potential issue: http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystemFuelCommandCenter

These also don't use VSS, I wonder if they have any sort of deceleration fuel cutoff? That would suck if it didn't.
 
dyeager535 said:
Fuel pump, sending unit, assorted fittings/hose/metal line depending on how you do the fuel lines, fuel tank, relays, additional fuse panel, I'm sure a ton of stuff I'm forgetting, there always is. :)

I guess for $400 you can "solve" the fuel issue, but now you run two fuel pumps, and being "returnless", I see vapor lock being a potential issue: http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystemFuelCommandCenter

These also don't use VSS, I wonder if they have any sort of deceleration fuel cutoff? That would suck if it didn't.
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I was thinking that people just run one fuel pump and have the return to the tank like tbi, obviously a stronger pump. I have the tbi tank and pump already as I'm sort of between upgrading from carb to tbi. I haven't run the fuel line yet because I want to get the motor in but I know I have to shell out some money to get that squared away.

I would surely want a return line.
 
Do you not have to be smogged? I was reading a very long thread on the 69-72 board about this setup, I saw someone in CA asked about that.

The FCC makes some sense for folks that don't have the option of a factory EFI tank like we do, and it does simplify running the fuel lines.

As bad as the aftermarket EFI fuel tank baffles are, a fuel surge tank is not a bad idea IMO.
 
dyeager535 said:
Do you not have to be smogged? I was reading a very long thread on the 69-72 board about this setup, I saw someone in CA asked about that.

The FCC makes some sense for folks that don't have the option of a factory EFI tank like we do, and it does simplify running the fuel lines.

As bad as the aftermarket EFI fuel tank baffles are, a fuel surge tank is not a bad idea IMO.
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No smog for me.

Yeah its all new to me! Ive been meaning to call fitech to ask them a few technical questions. What is the deceleration youre talking about? Vss would tell the efi that youre slowing down to a stop and to adjust the fueling correctly right? I suppose thats most important to an automatic.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
No smog for me.

Yeah its all new to me! Ive been meaning to call fitech to ask them a few technical questions. What is the deceleration youre talking about? Vss would tell the efi that youre slowing down to a stop and to adjust the fueling correctly right? I suppose that's most important to an automatic.
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Deceleration fuel cutoff completely cuts fuel off when you are decelerating. I assume they can do that with throttle position, load, and RPM input.

Depends on how the setups are run on what VSS is used for. On the TBI rigs VSS seems to have little input (some run it without), on the TPI setups, idle starts to progressively worsen without it. I ran it, and just tested without to see what would happen, so I didn't spend any more effort figuring out the inter-relationship. My idle stays slightly higher until I'm stopped.
 
dyeager535 said:
Fuel pump, sending unit, assorted fittings/hose/metal line depending on how you do the fuel lines, fuel tank, relays, additional fuse panel, I'm sure a ton of stuff I'm forgetting, there always is. :)

I guess for $400 you can "solve" the fuel issue, but now you run two fuel pumps, and being "returnless", I see vapor lock being a potential issue: http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFISystemFuelCommandCenter

These also don't use VSS, I wonder if they have any sort of deceleration fuel cutoff? That would suck if it didn't.
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fitech also sells an external pump kit for 225
 
Team208Motorsports said:
This right here is why its hard to keep an old school engine. $795 turns to $995 plus, plus, plus, plus. All of a sudden you have 2-3k wrapped up in an aftermarket EFI with a 190-250 HP engine that is finicky and requires a direct link to customer service.
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Exactly why I'd just rather buy an ls and drop that 3k into that.

My friend whose shop I work in just had a 6.0 rebuilt by a local shop. $2400 out the door for a fully machined and rebuilt engine with a nice cam. Add the tuning and he did a painless harness and you are out the door with a quality setup for under $3500 that should last a long time. Also be power and reliability ahead from older engines.

These off the shelf kits really need to be in the $300-$500 range complete to be worth it anymore in my eyes.
 
Kain said:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-30003/overview/
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As others have said, if the engine is sound, most of the kits will work great. The throttle response is incredibly better. Some are better than others as far as cold start.
Either way, those kit prices are just the beginning. You need ignition upgrades on most vehicles and no matter what anyone tells you you NEED an aftermarket, in tank pump and all new plumbing. EFI is better for offroad but not if the fuel goes away from the pump. All those parts add a lot to the cost
 
Only thing I've heard so far is a guy had some hard starting issues but a quick call to fitech and he adjusted the butterflies (not idle setting just air at idle) and problem went away. I'm planning on going with the 600hp kit probably this summer. When I do I'll let everyone know if it works or not! I'm running a 468 with a fair amount of roller cam, aluminum heads, and an air gap intake. Not a monster but it should be 425-450hp-ish. If it works better than my edelbrock and doesn't flood out when I'm on my side or staring at the ground or sky I'll be happy!
 
Kain said:
fitech also sells an external pump kit for 225
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I suppose the debate will rage on, but EFI dies immediately when the fuel pump pickup is uncovered. That's why the surge tank setup is preferable, if you can't get a good factory baffled tank. Inline pumps are mediocre at best, no matter the brand. They aren't cooled by the fuel, they tend to be noisy, relatively expensive, and the pumps aren't made to pull fuel, and on many applications, it's difficult to mount them low enough to be at the bottom level of the fuel tank.

I'm sure in some conditions they are warranted for use, but again it goes back to "easy" being nowhere near the best solution if you have other options.
 
Can't remember the price or what exactly it's called but Mercury marine makes a canister for their outboard motors that has a low pressure lift pump and a high pressure pusher pump. I've been curious to try one on an offroad rig. I bet it would work great with one of these efi kits
 
If I had to do it all over again and was starting out from nothing I would do a 5.3 or 6.0 long before I would do what I have now.

The Edelbrock MPFI kit that I have has been the biggest pain in the butt. It does not self tune and you have to do all the tuning on your own. Mine still is not right. I have about $1500 into it as well as the parts I had to buy with it.

So if you buy one get one that self tunes. Or get a 5.3
 
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