Hmm... The caps don't fit over those prongs... Unless they don't need too..
CK5
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What hubs??( went mile marker supremes)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Hmm... The caps don't fit over those prongs... Unless they don't need too..
No you should not be able to spin it by hand.
Martin
Martin
There are two nuts in there.
You have the bearing and then the first nut. That one is the "loose" one (with the nub) in as much as you tighten it and then back off about 1/6th of a turn. Next is the locking ring washer. The nub needs to align into one of the holes. This prevents the first nut from moving. Then, the second nut goes on and is torqued around 150 ft-lbs. This locks the locking ring washer and the first nut together.
Then finally the small snap ring shown in your picture from PMA....
Then your manual/auto hub assembly can be installed.
You have the bearing and then the first nut. That one is the "loose" one (with the nub) in as much as you tighten it and then back off about 1/6th of a turn. Next is the locking ring washer. The nub needs to align into one of the holes. This prevents the first nut from moving. Then, the second nut goes on and is torqued around 150 ft-lbs. This locks the locking ring washer and the first nut together.
Then finally the small snap ring shown in your picture from PMA....
Then your manual/auto hub assembly can be installed.
I kinda knew that since I've done wheel bearings in 3 squares in the last 4 years, but this one looks a tad different inside so just wondered
The more I thought about it after posting the more i realized I'm a moron
The more I thought about it after posting the more i realized I'm a moron
I've done it a few time now so I'm more comfortable. The first time I took the front hub off I was terified! Laying out every piece in order as to not mix them up.
Just don't mix up the "nub" and "no-nub" nuts.....
Just don't mix up the "nub" and "no-nub" nuts.....
Not sure how complete that writeup is, but if you put the hubs together wrong, they won't lock.
As I recall operation, the two "tangs" that stick out ride on the ramps cast into the underside of the knob. When the hubs are unlocked the ramp forces the tangs back, pushing the gears out of engagement. When the knob is turned into "lock", the large spring forces the gears towards the outside of the hub assembly (away from centerline of vehicle) as the tanged piece follows the ramps outwards.
The spring should be compressed with the knob set in the "open" position.
(Edit: Was mixing posts up, was talking of the spicer hub operation)
As I recall operation, the two "tangs" that stick out ride on the ramps cast into the underside of the knob. When the hubs are unlocked the ramp forces the tangs back, pushing the gears out of engagement. When the knob is turned into "lock", the large spring forces the gears towards the outside of the hub assembly (away from centerline of vehicle) as the tanged piece follows the ramps outwards.
The spring should be compressed with the knob set in the "open" position.
(Edit: Was mixing posts up, was talking of the spicer hub operation)
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Don't forget the second axle nut has a little stub on it. The hole in the lock ring prevents it from spinning loose.
I was going to do a write up on the 10 bolt but I didn't think anyone would be interested. I have a bunch of pics of the tear down.
when I put the first nut back in (the inner one with nub) my socket broke the nub off as I was torquing the bearing in Now I'm buying a new set I guess
That kinda sucks. I dont know how it never happened before. But I can see little marks where all the previous ones sat against the inside of the socket pressing against the side.
Now I'm buying a new set I guess That kinda sucks. I dont know how it never happened before. But I can see little marks where all the previous ones sat against the inside of the socket pressing against the side.
Wrong socket. Should have a socket with cut outs for the pin.
Martin
Martin
mine looks more like one of these....
No need to buy a new one. Get a small punch push the nub through and put a tack weld on the back side so it doesn't slide in anymore.
I have also had good luck using roll pins to replace the little nubs.
I think dang near every square I have ever bought or worked on had at least one side gone.
I have also had good luck using roll pins to replace the little nubs.
I think dang near every square I have ever bought or worked on had at least one side gone.
This is what the socket should look like.
Martin
I tried to push the pin through but it WONT move no matter what I've tried
I've used this socket on 3 different axles 5 times both sides and never had an issue. I will be making reliefs for the pins with a grinding bit. got new nut kits ordered. I wish I would have just ordered the whole works now
Oh well the MM's will do me fine for my wheelin and the nut kits will be here tomorrow. If I happen to get something figured out I'll just return em
I'm a little late to the party I see, but I would never ever ever use Mile marker our superjunk hubs somewhere back in the depths of my early CK5 days there is a thread(s) about my joyous good luck with both brands.
sorry i to late also . but for years i have been telling of the SH!TY design cheep axle nut sockets breaking the inner pin off the hub / bearing nut.
those stupid designers dont check there stuff in the real world.
those stupid designers dont check there stuff in the real world.
My problem was when I went to take them off the Allen head screws stripped out our broke
77k5blz
1/2 ton status
Are the hub designs diffrent on a 10 bolt diffrent from a dana 44? I put a set of mile marker premium stainless hubs in my blazer with a dana 44 and they were totally easy it had broken warn premiums on it (well one side was broke). Is there a diffrence in the design cause I didnt have to take off any nuts or anything just some snap rings. I thought the mile marker design was easier and looks more durable then the warn no springs to mess with its all self contained I liked that. Plus its patented lol!
