Ok came across some thing and I have no clue. What is the difference in a one ton dually front axle and a SRW front. Guy says truck is a dually but the rpo says SRW. So confused..... This is more for my education than any thing.
CK5
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What long strange trip it's been! Here we go more Q's no answers.
- Thread starter Metrodps
- Start date
That's a dually front axle for sure, the wheel mounting surface is 4" wider per side. Unless there are some monster wheel spacers hidden under the wheel.
The front axle is not original, nor is the bed.
You can bolt dually wheel hubs onto a SRW axle to convert them.
I think someone blew up a axle or swapped the high demand srw hub/rotors for drw hub/rotors.
stupid easy to swap back to srw if you have some.
stupid easy to swap back to srw if you have some.
I gotta say that I like that truck!
So here is the deal I am trying to work a deal of trading my A k fully dressed with little friends and holders to them for the truck and them giving me $300 cash to sent to a very patient person. They are talking it over and will let me know after Christmas. So it that a srw rear or what and to drive it back 2.5 hrs do I need to run duals on the rear. The tires are bald as a bowling ball. The truck was either a company truck or a government because it has had a Motorola two way in it. (the four screw holes on cab back, the holes where the put the mic clip and the funky three holes for the radio speaker and head mount.)
Some one has had the intake off and motor runs good/smooth no smoke at start up. was typical slow start. Has the fan switch and a rh fuel tank was added. Spent 20 mins crawling under it frame is good had no rust the black paint is in good with the spotty paint chips. The rear drive line slip yoke I can see about 2 inches of spline at the rubber carrier mount. told them they were getting the better deal on the boom stick because it was worth more than the truck. The main thing is they give me the $300 so I can repay some money.
Some one has had the intake off and motor runs good/smooth no smoke at start up. was typical slow start. Has the fan switch and a rh fuel tank was added. Spent 20 mins crawling under it frame is good had no rust the black paint is in good with the spotty paint chips. The rear drive line slip yoke I can see about 2 inches of spline at the rubber carrier mount. told them they were getting the better deal on the boom stick because it was worth more than the truck. The main thing is they give me the $300 so I can repay some money.
Seems reasonable to me..
Or you could get the DW hubs machined down and make them SW hubs.
Aren't the SW hubs getting expensive since Dana quit making them and old stock is gone?
You can get new aftermarket wheel hubs from folks like Yukon or Solid Axle Industries. They are not terribly expensive, couple hundred each.
Dynatrac sells them also. Can even get them with the studs, rotors and bearing races installed.
I guess what I am asking is ok if they trade for the stick that booms do I take four tires from yeller and put two on the front like they are now; and what about the rear how do I do that? Then when I get it home what them; do I swap the chassis DRW from yeller to whitey? All this is new to me I know nutting about one ton stuff. Edumacate me!
The wheel pic is from yeller and its hub could they just have wrong rims on it?
The wheel pic is from yeller and its hub could they just have wrong rims on it?
I know the bed is not oem.
I'm kinda confused on what exactly your question is, but it kinda sounds like you are asking should you go DRW or SRW on this, or maybe you are asking can you swap tires from another 8-lug onto this to drive it home. Here is my response which may or may not answer your question (if I've interpreted your question correctly):
You have a DRW front axle and an SRW rear axle on that truck as it sits now. If you have SRW offset wheels and tires, the rear will work fine for the rear to get it home, but the front likely won't clear right to drive it home for two hours. You need to swap some new tires on the front DRW wheels to make the drive home. Or find a set on some DRW wheel already that you borrow or buy cheap for now. Check Craigslist as there are often sets floating around (just make sure they are 8x6.5 bolt pattern). If you had a DRW axle on the back you could drive just fine on single wheels per side instead of having two per side. That's not an issue at all. Your cheapest option right now (assuming the gear ratios are the same front to back) would likely be to swap SRW hubs on the front axle. Probably set you back $500-$600 if you do the labor. Maybe more if you go ahead and replace bearings, etc. You're going to need new rotors up front as well since I'm pretty sure they are different on the SRW than they are on the DRW. Hope that helps.
You have a DRW front axle and an SRW rear axle on that truck as it sits now. If you have SRW offset wheels and tires, the rear will work fine for the rear to get it home, but the front likely won't clear right to drive it home for two hours. You need to swap some new tires on the front DRW wheels to make the drive home. Or find a set on some DRW wheel already that you borrow or buy cheap for now. Check Craigslist as there are often sets floating around (just make sure they are 8x6.5 bolt pattern). If you had a DRW axle on the back you could drive just fine on single wheels per side instead of having two per side. That's not an issue at all. Your cheapest option right now (assuming the gear ratios are the same front to back) would likely be to swap SRW hubs on the front axle. Probably set you back $500-$600 if you do the labor. Maybe more if you go ahead and replace bearings, etc. You're going to need new rotors up front as well since I'm pretty sure they are different on the SRW than they are on the DRW. Hope that helps.
You should be able to put the duals on the back. I looks like there is enough room. I know that is part of the reason that 1 tons have the spring perches set in towards the frame compared to 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton.
You won't know about the rear wheel stud length until you try it. But you should be able to put one dual wheel and the ring on each side to get it home.
You won't know about the rear wheel stud length until you try it. But you should be able to put one dual wheel and the ring on each side to get it home.
cant correctly put drw rims on srw hubs .
the studs are longer / hub centric section of the hub is shorter = outer drw rim wont center / and hub face spacing is different .
now if the rear IS A DRW all factory then someone just bolted on srw on the back your good to go .
if you can get a pic of the back axle showing how much drum is sticking out past the rim . its easy to spot the drw axle this way as if it has a true drw axle with srw rims on it there will be a huge amount of drum showing .
OK my words do not always come out the right way and getting worse. I hope the pictures explain it better. Yeller is a Dual rear wheel Chassis I have the rimes from yeller (4 I can take and use) The white truck I have no clue if it is a SRW rear or DRW rear; the front appears to be a dually front (if I understand). I have the Chassis DRW off yeller and plan to pull parts from yeller to put on the frame of the white truck.
When I was under it to my old man eyes it looked like the drum was 4 -6 inches from the rear of the tire. The other drawing is of the tires and I plan if it will work take the two outer rear tires and rims off yeller and put on the front of white. Take the one front and spare off yeller and put them on the rear of white. Of course all this is mute if they won't trade the stick and goodies for truck.
When I was under it to my old man eyes it looked like the drum was 4 -6 inches from the rear of the tire. The other drawing is of the tires and I plan if it will work take the two outer rear tires and rims off yeller and put on the front of white. Take the one front and spare off yeller and put them on the rear of white. Of course all this is mute if they won't trade the stick and goodies for truck.
ya both trucks are drw front for sure .
its just a bit had for me to tell from the pic of the rear under whitey if its a srw or drw with single tire/rims on it .
if its a drw rear end just bolt on 1 drw per side and roll it down the road .
its just a bit had for me to tell from the pic of the rear under whitey if its a srw or drw with single tire/rims on it .
if its a drw rear end just bolt on 1 drw per side and roll it down the road .
Ok I asked them to get "if you can get a pic of the back axle showing how much drum is sticking out past the rim . its easy to spot the drw axle this way as if it has a true drw axle with srw rims on it there will be a huge amount of drum showing". I just want to get the FS truck built before my sand runs out. The two are my legacy to the group.
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