CK5
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What long strange trip it's been! Here we go more Q's no answers.

Glad to hear you made it safely, Lawrence.
Glad you made it back safe! So are you going to use the rims that are on it, or get all new matching ones?

OK well feel like I got run over by a freight train. Thanks for the thoughts. For now the truck is sitting but once the weather breaks I guess I'll have to jack one side up and pull the rim to get a picture of the hub area. Also looks like the rear has lift blocks on it. Snowing like crazy here. The main thing is the the truck home and only thing left is sorting stuff out. Not sure of things after that except there will be lots of wrenching to be done.
 
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so the rim wouldn't fit over the drum cause the drum filled the rim up before it bottomed out on the mounting face ?

if so then that should mean its a srw axle in the rear .

pic #1 = srw hub pic
pic #2 = drw hub pic
pic#3-4 = drw drum pic and info
pic#5-6 = srw drum pic and info

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drw drum info.jpg

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srw drum info.jpg

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And a wayyyy we go!
OK my red neck mud flaps and tail lights.
Then the rear appears to have lift blocks on it.
Of course those mirrors have to go and the auto therm will go bye bye.
How the heck do you rip a hood like this?
Thinking of doing some thing with the add on gas tank.
The dented front bumper that will get changed to a painted.
Another uncut dash :)
The hood release and the parking brake that falls down (cable adjustment I HOPE)
Blue tint on windshield I thought they were greenish?
Lug nuts are different from the 89

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aftermarket lift blocks in rear prob 2" lift from the old bed setup to level it out . pics of front leafs maybe its a 2" kit ? ? ? lloking at 1st pic there seems to be a bit of extra fender gap up front . I think its got a small lift kit .

and do those lug nuts have built in washers ? ? if so I have never seen them on this style of gm truck . if still 9/16 thread just use the stuff off old yeller crew to make it more std/normal.

oooo factory rear sway bar brackets I see on the lower pads for the u-bolts.
 
aftermarket lift blocks in rear prob 2" lift from the old bed setup to level it out . pics of front leafs maybe its a 2" kit ? ? ? lloking at 1st pic there seems to be a bit of extra fender gap up front . I think its got a small lift kit .

and do those lug nuts have built in washers ? ? if so I have never seen them on this style of gm truck . if still 9/16 thread just use the stuff off old yeller crew to make it more std/normal.
oooo factory rear sway bar brackets I see on the lower pads for the u-bolts.

No blocks or spacers on front; but I thought it had a higher front too. yeap the nuts are 1 1/16 vs 1" on yeller. This is going to be real fun.........

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someone has been in the front . . . nylock nuts on u-bolts

need better shot of leaf pack and count on leafs to make better idea.
 
someone has been in the front . . . nylock nuts on u-bolts
need better shot of leaf pack and count on leafs to make better idea.

Well we had a heat wave today so I waddled out and got a few pics. Five leafs on the front. I think the slip yoke is due to the lift block on rear.
Ok the rear spring pack looks strange but If and when I find another Utility bed might help with the weight.
She sure looks like she is standing tall!

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front is 2 sets of stock leaf packs added together to make 5 leaf front . there o.k. this way . those bolts with lockwashers and spacer washers on the pass side u-bolt plate in to the diff housing is scary . . . not end of world tho .

slip yoke is the slip shaft yoke seal has just come off and slid up to the end . see if you can clean it and slide it back down and twist on the yoke body and grease it up .

sway bar brackets only in the rear I see no bar or links dam it .

rear packs are ALL jacked up mix-n-match .... someone didn't know how to mix them up to make a good pack . . . you should never run short leaf above longer leaf . weak point . and thinner leafs with thick don't get you much at all. stacking the u-bolt top plates ? ? ? whats up with that someone was lazy . . .

I think they added a add-a-leaf in the rears and just installed in the wrong position . . . if so easy fix .

overall looks like a good rollin start of a new project truck .

I think think those might be drw drums in the back .
 
front is 2 sets of stock leaf packs added together to make 5 leaf front . there o.k. this way . those bolts with lockwashers and spacer washers on the pass side u-bolt plate in to the diff housing is scary . . . not end of world tho .
Want to go back to stock height so I know new u-bolts what else do I have to do?

slip yoke is the slip shaft yoke seal has just come off and slid up to the end . see if you can clean it and slide it back down and twist on the yoke body and grease it up .
Ok think I can do that one :)

sway bar brackets only in the rear I see no bar or links dam it .
?? I understand sway bar; would one from a Suburban work?

rear packs are ALL jacked up mix-n-match .... someone didn't know how to mix them up to make a good pack . . . you should never run short leaf above longer leaf . weak point . and thinner leafs with thick don't get you much at all. stacking the u-bolt top plates ? ? ? whats up with that someone was lazy . . .
Lost and confused..... So what should I do to correct that mess? I am not using the lift blocks.

I think they added a add-a-leaf in the rears and just installed in the wrong position . . . if so easy fix .
See above.

overall looks like a good rollin start of a new project truck .
I think think those might be drw drums in the back .

Game plan is to get the things figured out first (when no ice or snow get the rear wheel off and check the drum. I know the front IS DRW has the long hub part (4" or more). Next is sort out the engine compartment stuff and clean the dirt and mud out of places around frame. Want to take as much from yellow as I can and use on this. I do not know much about these K30's so I am noob. Will need a lot of hand holding on this thing.

Ok also found out where the truck was sold from Burt Chevrolet Englewood Colorado and then spent some time at Escalante Ranch Ltd. near Delta, CO so it almost came home.


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ahh at this point I would leave the suspension hight were she is . but if you want to make it a 3 leaf pack front / remove extra leaf in rear and 2" block .

not sure on sway bar . . .

and GOSH DARN MAN that green was a pita to read . I had to switch to dark skin mode to read it :1zhelp:
 
Why bother messing with the height unless you hafta?

Do the axle ratios match Yeller, so you could just swap out the rear axle and be done? Or are you stuck swapping both? :thinking:

Same for the springs, if these springs are jacked up you should be able to remove Yeller's axle still attached to the leaves and then you are back to having stock springs again.

:popcorn:
 
and GOSH DARN MAN that green was a pita to read . I had to switch to dark skin mode to read it :1zhelp:

I use the dark mode sorry.

Campy only the rear springs intact on yeller. No clue on the ratios on white not original axles. It was a SRW with a bed on it from factory. Leaning to the chassis axle but need to do a lot of checking and might need @6872xtc 's supervision and on site help. in changing the gears.
 
I wouldn't get too concerned until you find out for sure if the white truck has dually hubs on the back. Then it's easy enough to check the ratio of each axle, the width of the rear , inside for bed clearance.
The hard part is wanting a plan ASAP, and having things slow down your plans and investigation!
 
OK so I sprayed some carb cleaner on the carb today and the air cleaner housing has what looks like a flame arrestor built on to it that the air filter goes around it. (owned two 454 a 1979 and 1989 neither had it). Lots of minor things that need straightened like caps where lines used to be hooked up. The lug nuts on the white are 1 1/16" vs 1" on the 1989. The funky rim fits the front (used one on it to come home) but not the rear. Also I was told that Ford rims would work? News to me......
Dug some of the dirt out of the frame rail by the gas tank and muffler shields.
 
I had to use Ford lug nuts with 1-1/16" hex on my '77 GMC K2500 when I put 1990 Ford F-250 8 lug rims on it--the taper is larger on them--GM lug nuts would work,but I feared they might pull through the rim eventually,but I did run GM ones on one rim for awhile with no issues..

Some Ford 1 tons had weird rims with the lug holes "staggered" in and out,those probably wont work on a GM axle..
 
I had to use Ford lug nuts with 1-1/16" hex on my '77 GMC K2500 when I put 1990 Ford F-250 8 lug rims on it--the taper is larger on them--GM lug nuts would work,but I feared they might pull through the rim eventually,but I did run GM ones on one rim for awhile with no issues..

Some Ford 1 tons had weird rims with the lug holes "staggered" in and out,those probably wont work on a GM axle..
These that are on the front have a washer like thing on them.
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The rear are like a mag wheel lug chrome and the acorn top.
 

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