CK5
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What the Scout

1964-ish Scout 800/80 hot mess Scout. The only redeaming qualities of the truck are the rust free body and frame. Everything else look like a crack head had a good idea and went half way with it. Swapping a GM drivetrain.
Looking into waggy axles..... are they all offset?

No. But centered ones are harder to find. Most are AMC 20s but single peice shafts pretty solid set up.

Waggys front mini truck rear. Need like 1" spacers to get em dead even. Waggys should be 59" toy 8" ifs rear is 58".

Could do a Isuzu/Honda rear 44 too those are 58 or 59 I think.

If you did a Toyota 8" front I'd do spacers and use an IFS rear axle which will get you to a 58" width.

IMO to keep it stock looking ish you need to stay under 60" wms to wms. Lots of ways to go about it.
 
this is what I keep thinking too.

The deciding factor might end up being whatever parts you come across at a good price.

This isnt going to be a $$ pit to my best ability so whatever we come across will influence it for sure.
 
She said we can do fullsize axles. Could help find dirt cheap parts. I see ford 1 ton and 3/4 ton complete sets for under 500 all the time. Its driver drop so would help with a full ls swap
 
I second waggy axle front and if you want a matching rear with discs early 2000 isuzu or Nissan 6 lug and same width.
Toyota also are a great choice but I like to stay with d44 because I know them better. And if you are running gm drivetrain it fits better with d44
 

Which would be awesome and way cool. Except you'd have a trailer queen. Even with deep offset wheels those are 70+ inches wms to wms. So 15" wider than stock. Add that to huge pumpkins your running 40s.

Keep looking. Waggy stuff is getting old. But I really do vote to keep this mild Street able etc.

Oh and then there's the cost of linking it which you would absolutely have to do with those.
 
Which would be awesome and way cool. Except you'd have a trailer queen. Even with deep offset wheels those are 70+ inches wms to wms. So 15" wider than stock. Add that to huge pumpkins your running 40s.

Keep looking. Waggy stuff is getting old. But I really do vote to keep this mild Street able etc.

Oh and then there's the cost of linking it which you would absolutely have to do with those.

The voice of reason.
 
Dont loose the paint pantinia what ever you do. you should link it with ORIs. Thats the easiest, dead simple, cleanest design, that gives you the most adjust ability. still very streetable and still very off road able. Jenson Bros in SLC is an ORI dealer.
 
Dont loose the paint pantinia what ever you do. you should link it with ORIs. Thats the easiest, dead simple, cleanest design, that gives you the most adjust ability. still very streetable and still very off road able. Jenson Bros in SLC is an ORI dealer.

The patina stays. We want to just clean it up and clear over it.

Underside, suspension, axles, so on very nice glossy black, modern nice wheels. But the paint stays. (For now)
 
I vote tons, links, LS power, patina, 37"+ tires, lockers, all the safety upgrades, and party!:saweet:

That said d44s and 35s would proportionally be close to PB.
 
I vote tons, links, LS power, patina, 37"+ tires, lockers, all the safety upgrades, and party!:saweet:

That said d44s and 35s would proportionally be close to PB.
Ouch.... lol

@the_blaze My vote is to just overbuild it, THEN.... you don’t take the chance of having to rebuild it when she decides she wants to start pushing it. The 1st part of @72gmck5 post is what I’d go with.
 
Ouch.... lol

@the_blaze My vote is to just overbuild it, THEN.... you don’t take the chance of having to rebuild it when she decides she wants to start pushing it. The 1st part of @72gmck5 post is what I’d go with.

Lol yeah pb has one tons, lockers and 40s.
I bet 44s lockers and 35s is close ;) (only way to clear 37s would require a bunch of cutting on these)

I always like to overbuild so i have a feeling this will go that route if leah is gane for the work and funding.
 
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