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What to look for on a 77?

obijuan said:
niiiice dude! first thing i would do is wash the **** out of it!! then go through and replace all worn out steering components that obviously have been neglected. then you dont look to have any real leaks good plus. Does it have a tranny dipstick? looks funny. change all the fluids except the tranny unless it is still smlls and looks good, otherwise if its dark, i say leave a sleeping dog you know. get it to where its very reliable then, cut it up!

hmmm new build thread?

I thought southwest cars didn't rust?
 
I'd make sure that little nipple on the driver's side of the air cleaner gets capped.

You probably have a TH350 tranny.
http://www.nastyz28.com/pictures/transpan.gif

That's definately a D44 front end. On the driver's side of the center section you will find number cast into it. It will even say the gear ratio it came with stock.
 
it never really goes through, just surface discoloration. hit it with a gritty sandpaper and it will probably rub right off to new metal. let us know whats up! and make this a build thread or something.
 
Thanks for the helpful answers guys!!!

obijuan said:
niiiice dude! first thing i would do is wash the **** out of it!! then go through and replace all worn out steering components that obviously have been neglected. then you dont look to have any real leaks good plus. Does it have a tranny dipstick? looks funny. change all the fluids except the tranny unless it is still smlls and looks good, otherwise if its dark, i say leave a sleeping dog you know. get it to where its very reliable then, cut it up!
Steering is top of the list ,its the worse thing on it,along with fixing the speedo.
The trans dipstick is some chrome straight thing,the oil too.


You probably have a TH350 tranny.
I just didn't see the cut corner on the pan,I was looking from the right side. :rolleyes: Because its a 3 speed,and a Square pan is a 700R4.


hit it with a gritty sandpaper and it will probably rub right off to new metal. let us know whats up! and make this a build thread or something.

I'm sanding it tomorrow then some primer and some outdoor white paint for now.Also I'm going to grease the front end to make it last a little while.

OH and thanks for pointing out the air cleaner,I wouldn't have noticed that for a while...:rolleyes:

:haha: My "Build thread" would be 5 yrs long or more .... I'm a poor boy on SSI and a wife in collage .
Also the biggest money drain ,a 6 yr old daughter I cant say no too :haha:
 
Dafey said:
Thanks.
Every time I look theres something else I need , lol.
Like this...
IMG_0864.jpg


Think JB weld would hold up?
 
First some questions,really I just want to make sure I`m right.




This is a D44 right ?Its D shaped..

IMG_0853.jpg


And a 203 ?
IMG_0841.jpg


And a 350?It has a cut off corner..

IMG_0832.jpg


And last but not least,a 12 bolt?Its got 12 bolts in it...
IMG_0854.jpg
 
The interior isnt in such bad shape...
Snowman27.jpg


Except where they cut into the door metal.. :mad:
IMG_0860.jpg


IMG_0855.jpg



IMG_0857.jpg


The seats and cargo area are in an above reply.



I started on the rust..

IMG_0851.jpg


IMG_0829.jpg


LOL even put the wife to work :wink1: .I forgot to take pics of the gray pinstripping,LOL
Tomorrow or so I`ll do under the door,next day or so over the rear wheel arch , then the other side...Then the cheap outdoor paint.Next cheap fix should be the trans mount/oil covers.And the free fix should be checking over the motor tune an adding up parts I need.
 
It is scary how good your interior looks.

Yea everything is what you think it is. Looks to be in real good shape on the inside. I have the Cheyenne package and my dash looks like a bomb was droped on it.

Have fun and get that top off and enjoy the atmosphere.:D
 
TexasBlazerBoy said:
It is scary how good your interior looks.

Yea everything is what you think it is. Looks to be in real good shape on the inside. I have the Cheyenne package and my dash looks like a bomb was droped on it.

Have fun and get that top off and enjoy the atmosphere.:D

Yeah the dash is not cracked... :eek1: Its got to be a new one.
I want to get the top off,I wish we could get to our back yard [LOL its a 10x10 concrete slab]I'm to afraid to leave it in the parking space...

Looks like I found my dream truck at a hell of a good price [$1950.00].Every time I walk out or go to the kitchen an glance out the window , I still cant believe
it is mine :woot: > MINE :k5: :shocked: !!!!!



Question..I have 2 tech questions and 1 opinion question....Should I ask in here or make new threads???Or make a semi build thread?Manny,TexasBlazerBoy[tbb],76zimmer,obijuan,Seafarer76,anyone I missed what do ya`ll think ? ? ? ? :dunno:
 
Ok what is this,and where does it hook up to??

carbanmanifoldarrow2.jpg


And where do these hook up to?
carbanmanifoldarrows.jpg


I'm not sure it matters though ...

carbanmanifold2.jpg


What kinda carb is this?I don't have a step ladder yet...
carbanmanifold4.jpg

carbanmanifold3.jpg


Its on an Edelbrock manifold.

carbanmanifold.jpg
 
That's an old Carter AFB and is a POS for off road use. Get rid of it ASAP and get a Rochester QuadraJet. They are the best off road carbs despite what other will tell you......Hell that old AFB doesn't even have a choke, unless you count that piece of wire as one. Hate to say it but that engine is pretty much jury rigged
 
The AFB can be made to work off road if a new/different carb is not in the works. If the carb stalls out on you when you start bouncing around off road, you can change out the needle and seat to the off-road needle and seat (its spring loaded so it doesn't bounce open). The Carter AFB is the design that Edelbrock used for their Performer series carbs. But, down the road, an upgrade to a properly tuned quad would be a good investment. By the way, that carb looks overdue for a good rebuild. I am currently running a newer Carter AFB in my rig, and it doesn't do too bad if its set up right. The quad. will work better, but we work with what we have.

The item circled in red in the first pic is the coolant bypass valve for your heater. Does your heater blow hot? If so, then you are ok leaving it disconnected. Those are installed to prevent hot coolant from flowing through the heater core when you don't want hot air blowing from the heater. (eg. when the A/C is on) It connects to a vacuum line from the heater system. I'd probably double check all of the heater control vacuum lines under the dash to make sure that none are disconnected, which could be causing a vacuum leak (not good).

The Large fitting on the side of the air cleaner should go from a secondary filter on the inside of the Air cleaner housing to a hose to the passenger side valve cover. (where your PCV valve is now). The PCV valve on a stocker goes in the driver side valve cover where the round breather is now. You can just leave the setup as it is for now, it won't hurt anything as long as the grommets are tight on the pcv valve and breather.

For the other connectors on the air cleaner, just make sure they are capped off to prevent unfiltered air from entering the carb. They are emmisions related connections.
 
Looks like I have a lot of work and a few parts to replace...How much is a carb going to cost me?Should I get a Q-jet to go with what I have [the manifold] ,will it work in there?
Should I get a new air cleaner,the kind with an open filter?
 
Seafarer76 said:
The item circled in red in the first pic is the coolant bypass valve for your heater. Does your heater blow hot? If so, then you are ok leaving it disconnected. Those are installed to prevent hot coolant from flowing through the heater core when you don't want hot air blowing from the heater. (eg. when the A/C is on) It connects to a vacuum line from the heater system. I'd probably double check all of the heater control vacuum lines under the dash to make sure that none are disconnected, which could be causing a vacuum leak (not good).

Im not sure the heater works,and theres no compressor so no A/C :mad: ...I dont think I have a large vacuum leak,If I do its small beacuse it idles pretty good.I have only had it for exactly 1 week today,so not much time to look in to it...:rolleyes:


The Large fitting on the side of the air cleaner should go from a secondary filter on the inside of the Air cleaner housing to a hose to the passenger side valve cover. (where your PCV valve is now). The PCV valve on a stocker goes in the driver side valve cover where the round breather is now. You can just leave the setup as it is for now, it won't hurt anything as long as the grommets are tight on the pcv valve and breather.

For the other connectors on the air cleaner, just make sure they are capped off to prevent unfiltered air from entering the carb. They are emmisions related connections.

I think the large fitting is capped off , see the 3rd pic?

The truck runs goods on the street,it just doesnt have as much power as it should :( .But its ok,I got a great body and interior :cool: .And what do you think ,The motor isnt all that bad is it?Pretty much a new carb and valve covers that have the correct holes [pcv and such]?And get the vacuum hose`s figured out?Thats what you guys are for right???:bow: :1zhelp:
 
that manifold should take a quadrajet bolt pattern. It looks like it has a dual bolt pattern for carb mounting. You should be able to get a core cheap, as they were everywhere. I would look for one without the electrical connector on the front top of the carb. Check the throttle shafts to make sure they aren't sloppy in the bore they go through. Get a carb rebuild kit and pay attention to the details. Good luck.
If you need anything from an 85 Service Manual I have one. PM me if needed.
 
You don't need new valve covers. I was just trying to explain what the air cleaner connectors were for. The pcv works on either side of the block, and you do have a filtered breather on there for the inlet air

A new air cleaner is not required, but won't hurt.
 
Question..I have 2 tech questions and 1 opinion question....Should I ask in here or make new threads???Or make a semi build thread?Manny,TexasBlazerBoy[tbb],76zimmer,obijuan,Seafarer76,anyone I missed what do ya`ll think ? ? ? ? :dunno:

Dafey,
I am not on here on the weekends so I was not trying to ignore your question.

When you are able the best thing you can do is join up, pay the membership fee. Steve Fox, the founder makes it easy. You can mail in a money order or pay by CC, or paypal. I think I remember reading about you being limited on the amount of money avaliable for your rig, the membership fee is minimal considering the wealth of knowledge you will get.

When you do this it will enable you to use the search function. Most everything you will ask has been asked by me and other people that are new to K5's. You can ask any question you want, but be prepared for the "pay to play attitude", which I support. Some will be dickheads and some won't care as they enjoy helping other members.

As far as your questions and how you should state/ask them that is up to you.

I wouldn't start a build thread until you are in fact ready to build, ie parts, time and so forth.

Welcome to the Brotherhood.

Good luck:D

Larry
 
TexasBlazerBoy said:
When you are able the best thing you can do is join up, pay the membership fee. Steve Fox, the founder makes it easy. You can mail in a money order or pay by CC, or paypal.
I'm going to join up before the weekend [the wifes payday is tomorrow :D mines not till the 1st ] I`ll be sending in a check [or M.O. if he prefer`s]


I think I remember reading about you being limited on the amount of money available for your rig, .
HUH? :confused: Well I sure qualify for that...

I wouldn't start a build thread until you are in fact ready to build, ie parts, time and so forth.
Ok I`l just keep asking questions then.I have all the time in the world,just not any money.. ;) Right now I need to get her running good like a fan shroud,trans mount,speedo,gas guage,steering parts.....:doah:

that manifold should take a quadrajet bolt pattern. It looks like it has a dual bolt pattern for carb mounting. You should be able to get a core cheap, as they were everywhere. I would look for one without the electrical connector on the front top of the carb. Check the throttle shafts to make sure they aren't sloppy in the bore they go through.
Ok sounds like a Q-jet is the easiest to mess with from reading on here.And I`ve already had a carb with a sloppy throttle shaft... :(


You don't need new valve covers. I was just trying to explain what the air cleaner connectors were for. The pcv works on either side of the block, and you do have a filtered breather on there for the inlet air

A new air cleaner is not required, but won't hurt.

Ok got ya now.A new air cleaner might draw more air though,and NAPA has them cheap for a 4" I think.This one has nothing hooked up to it anyway,wont hurt to get NAPA`s.
 
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