CK5
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What tool to remove Spindle Nut ***UPDATE***

The interesting thing about this setup other than i believe there is NO spindle nut tool made (because it is totally not traditional) is the fact that the bearing adjustment is relative to how tight you can get the 6 prong ring aligned with the square keyhole on the spindle. There is literally NO way you can over tighten it and still insert the square block i pictured above. Think of it like a cotter pin in a 2wd setup but way more thought put into it. I don't know if this was a military only deal for ease of maintenance for the grunts doing the work or what but it works once you forget about how a "regular" setup is. Now these diffs came to me with these lockers in both the front and rear ten bolt. Not to mention aftermarket axle shafts in the rear.
axle.jpg

I don't know what to make of it but whatever I get it now.
 
Yep, once you make the adjustment then you have to move the nut to the closest slot that will allow the key to go in (usually making the adjustment a little on the loose side).
 
OK, not making this up....

While I have never seen a square key setup that way, in lots of machine setups, and especially tool and die setups, it is real common to have a steel dowel pin with a threaded hole through it lengthwise.

In that case, the dowel is usually a tight press fit, and put in flush. You do not screw in a screw and pull, you would not be able to pull it out.
Instead, you lube the screw well with some high pressure lube, screw it in until it goes all the way through the pin and hits the bottom of the hole.

Then, you keep turning, and the pin rides the screw out. In this case, the screw in question is called a Jack screw, and removing the pin is called jacking it out.

All very well and good..........

Sometimes wheels and pulleys are pressed onto a hub the same way, and have jacking holes to remove them. Usually several around the hub that are tightened a little at a time all the way around so it puts even force on the pulley.

They were having a kinda open house at a tool and die shop I was consulting for, and were doing the whole tea and crumpets type thing.
Lots of dignitaries and their wives.
Work had to go on, but we were all on our best behavior while they were touring the shop.
I was waist deep in a big turret lathe trying to figure out a feed control problem, when I noticed a new guy about to hook a big puller onto a spoked wheel on a very expensive machine that had a bearing problem. I knew that the cast iron wheel would snap and the machine would be down for weeks until we ordered one from Switzerland.

By the time I saw it, he was just getting it tight, and I was still a little distracted by what I was doing, so I didn't think what I was about to do all the way through.....

In a slight panic, I yelled across the large room, " Don't pull on it, Jack it! You got to jack it off, jack it off, don't just pull on it. "


Ever tried to hide in a Warner Swayze turret lath? I just quietly squatted down and closed the doors.
 
on that note of unusual ways of doing things. MTU, and their good old fashioned german engineering. decided that the front and rear hub on the 2000 and 4000 series MTU engines will be held on via friction. OK thats all fine and dandy. But theres no pullers to remove and them............... ok now what.


hydraulics. theres a drilling into the hub that you hook up a high pressure manual pump to. and it forces fluid behind the hub and in between the hub and the crank. it litterally swells the hub and it fires off. there is a retaining fixture to catch the hub. cause when I say it fires off...... its a cannon shot. because you have just loaded 38,000psi behind that sucker. yep I said 38 thousand psi. and it has to swell for a few minutes at that pressure to let go. you can never predict when it will let go, but you can be damn sure everyone in a square kilometer knows when it finally does.

not many things mechanical scare me......... but I have a healthy does of respect when pulling MTU hubs. for those doing the math thats a 3000 BAR pump and lines. only from germany. made from only the purest unobtainium....... yes its an expensive kit.


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catch mechanism for hub. you don't stand in front of it.........

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I have never actually seen a setup like that, but I saw the instructions for removing a hub using the same system one time.
Don't remember now what kind of equipment it was, but I got sent the service manual for it in anticipation of my working on it and saw those instructions.

I remember thinking I sure hoped I didn't have to pull the hub.

Turned out, I was able to fix it over the phone.
I spotted something in the schematic that looked like it would cause the problem if it were bad, they checked and that was it.

So I never saw the machine. Wish I could remember what it was now. I could if I had worked on it.
 
and the mains on MTU 4000 engines. use stud pullers to torque the nuts. pull the stud to around 14,000-16,000psi spin the nut on by hand. release pressure. measure stud retraction. done.

More I think MTUs way of shoe horning the service market for their big diesels. no one can work on them unless you;re trained and have the million dollar tooling.


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I'm going through the same problem with my 84 military blazer. Everybody thinks I'm nuts at the parts stores looking for this 6pin socket that doesn't exist. I'm glad I found your post before I beat on it any harder. Your picture is a perfect match. Thanks, Greg
 
Yup find the threaded hole in the 6 slot nut. Thread a small 4-40 screw in there and pull it out. Then remove with a screwdriver. Easy when you know how to do it. LOL
 
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