CK5
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what would you do?

What would you do?

  • Keep the 10b and go 14sf

    Votes: 7 11.3%
  • go 14ff and 12b

    Votes: 4 6.5%
  • 14ff and 10b with 8 lug adapter

    Votes: 13 21.0%
  • buy a parts truck with a d60 and 14ff.

    Votes: 38 61.3%

  • Total voters
    62
Semi floating axles are more prone to losing the wheel. The axle shaft is held in by a little c-clip in the differential. If the shaft breaks anywhere from that point out to the outside (basically anywhere in the shaft) then it is just free to slide out. This is the main flaw for a 10b, 12b, or 14SF. That is why everyone wants a 14FF. It's harder to break in the first place, and IF you can break it, you'll still have a wheel. Front axles are NOT semi-floating, ever. The wheel is permanently attached by the spindle/bearings/hub/hub nut. The axle shaft only drives it, and does not support it or attach it.

As far as what you should do, you can go 1-ton which will be expensive. Or, you can pick up a set of 3/4 tons for pretty cheap. I see deals for $200 or less for both of the axles. Then you'd have a 3/4 ton 8 lug D44, and a 14FF. You could easily swap out the 44 for a 60 when you get enough money, and you wouldn't have to worry about wheel adapters and such. Or if you want to keep your front axle, you can just swap the outers to make it 8 lug.
 
Not sure but i think that is the only difference besides brakes. I don't really know tho.

I guess there are a few more guys that thought there were 12b front axles...

HOW DO I EDIT THE POLL!!!!!!!
 
Zeitler said:
and what is a D44 HD? just a 8-lug D44?

if I remember correctly the HD has thicker axle tubes... maybe bigger breaks, not sure. Dont hear about people breaking the housing on a regular 44 too often...

j
 
i voted for the 14 bolt, and the "8 lug adapter", but i would just find a set of 3/4 ton axles, bolt em in and call it good. an 82+ truck could net you a 14SF rather than a 14FF, but with your tire size, both axles would do just fine.
 
Be careful with your non-smog county. I have had alot of friends get busted for that. In AZ(Which we use most of the Cali rules). If you have a job in a smog county or travel into a smog county enough, you need to had it smoged. My old boss had his truck registered in Globe, where he lived, but drove 2.5 hrs a day to work in Mesa. He got pulled over and had to get his truck though emissions. They took his plate away until he did.

Dan
 
good thing i got the honda.... i will be driving that to work and my truck will get to rest until i feel like gettin dirty....

I got hooked up from my aunt and got a 1984 honda for free... takes alot of pressure off my truck becuase now i can get a job and finish my truck up right instead of drivin it without tuning the prom.

I'm guessing if you own 2 vehicles and 1 is registered in a non smog county the other one can't be in a smog county but thats what my mom is for... :D

I'll get the honda registered in her name and have to smog it but those things pass real easy.

if i got busted tho i'd be screwed.
 
votes or posts?

It looks like d60 14ff part truck is what i need to be on the look out for... If i don't find one for a good price i'll end up with a 14ff with a lockright and a 10b with cromos and eaton ected.

Is there such a thing as a 4.88 14ff?

what do you think? 35's or 36's with 4.88 gearing and a 700r4? I was gonna go 4.56 but i saw a few threads that said 4.88 would only spin 2400 in the "real world" not on a chart.
 
I didn't vote because I wouldn't take any of your options. I'd put Warn axles and CTM's in the front end with your gear of choice and a Detroit, then use a FF14 with aftermarket 6 lug hubs, disc brakes, your gears of choice, and a Detroit.
 
forgot to say that if i go 10b up front it WILL have cromos, gears, and an auburn ected... don't know about 300 dollar u joints tho.... :screwy: :what:
 
sheesh, who the flock voted in a 2 yr old poll?

hehe, a Dirtwarrior thread.....
 
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