4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Yes, both belts were removed and engine was started, noise was still there.
CK5
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What's that noise,,, FOUND IT :-/
- Thread starter 4xcrazy
- Start date
And you pulled the harmonic balancer when you changed the timing chain, so its not that.
I swear that it sure sounds like the balancer. Clanging noise in the front of the engine.
If you had not done the timing chain, I would suggest you grab it with the belts off, and twist and shake it.
A bad balancer would mess up the idle too.......
I'm almost down to a cracked wrist pin now. You have already eliminated all the obvious things I can think of.
Maybe with all the plugs out, you can rock the engine back and forth to see if you hear a noise then.
I swear that it sure sounds like the balancer. Clanging noise in the front of the engine.
If you had not done the timing chain, I would suggest you grab it with the belts off, and twist and shake it.
A bad balancer would mess up the idle too.......
I'm almost down to a cracked wrist pin now. You have already eliminated all the obvious things I can think of.
Maybe with all the plugs out, you can rock the engine back and forth to see if you hear a noise then.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
It's not really a balancer in the same design as the older, bulkier ones, these newer ones are just a pulley really, yes it does have a rubber band in it, but no balancing weight or bulk to it at all.
And it's all tight.
it's starting to look like a tear down, or complete replacement.
And it's all tight.
it's starting to look like a tear down, or complete replacement.
I've seen some get loose on the shaft and wallow the keyway out. But they don't usually make that much noise when they do.
The old bulky ones, now, they will really let you know when they start coming apart.
Grasping at straws now, try cranking it and putting your listening stick on the starter.
I doubt that if the Bendix came apart and started hitting the flexplate that you would not notice starter problems, but its quick and easy to check.
The part that bugs me, is that it sounds like its on the front of the engine.
If it were an older model Ford, I would say check for a loose dizzy advance weight.
It just does not sound like an internal part. Too "ringy".
One other idea. Weird though it may be.
I once found a noise in a big machine by stopping up one ear, and putting the other to a long cardboard tube.
I think I used a Christmas wrapping paper tube.
I made sure that I could only hear through the tube. It tended to block most sound except for where it was aimed.
Sorta like the stick method in reverse and from a distance.
Just don't do it where the neighbors can see. It looks Strange.
The old bulky ones, now, they will really let you know when they start coming apart.
Grasping at straws now, try cranking it and putting your listening stick on the starter.
I doubt that if the Bendix came apart and started hitting the flexplate that you would not notice starter problems, but its quick and easy to check.
The part that bugs me, is that it sounds like its on the front of the engine.
If it were an older model Ford, I would say check for a loose dizzy advance weight.
It just does not sound like an internal part. Too "ringy".
One other idea. Weird though it may be.
I once found a noise in a big machine by stopping up one ear, and putting the other to a long cardboard tube.
I think I used a Christmas wrapping paper tube.
I made sure that I could only hear through the tube. It tended to block most sound except for where it was aimed.
Sorta like the stick method in reverse and from a distance.
Just don't do it where the neighbors can see. It looks Strange.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Engine getting torn apart, possibly completely removed and freshened up.
Figures it wouldn't be easy or somewhat inexpensive.
Figures it wouldn't be easy or somewhat inexpensive.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'm beyond annoyed with this, supposed to be a better engine design than my 87 TBI 350, but that engine is going well over 200k, my '89 gave in at 265k with only a leaky headgasket,, this 5.3 doesn't get beat, mainly because of high gas prices, it gets Mobile 1 full synthetic 10/40 wt oil, Mobile 1 oil filter, changed every 4500 miles, which is less than the full synthetic calls for, oil never comes out dark black, like it does in the TBI engine, yet this 5.3 decided to quit way ahead of its normal life. Sucks.
Already had the transmission rebuilt earlier this year, man, this thing is being complicated.
Already had the transmission rebuilt earlier this year, man, this thing is being complicated.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
$1900 for a complete rework & rebuild with upgraded components.
and that's if I pull it out of the truck...
I'm heading out to tear in to this thing some more, figure out what's going on, should be pretty quick, since I've had it apart a few times already. :-/
and that's if I pull it out of the truck...
I'm heading out to tear in to this thing some more, figure out what's going on, should be pretty quick, since I've had it apart a few times already. :-/
Don't want to reread this whole thread but have you pulled the trans back and made sure that the flexplate bolts have not come loose from the crank (seen it happen a few times in the past).
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
I'll check the flexplate out again, I was watching it and that area while it was running, torque convertor bolts out and converter pushed back.
there didn't appear to be any odd movement from the flexplate or direct sounding noises coming from that area.
there didn't appear to be any odd movement from the flexplate or direct sounding noises coming from that area.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Well? ok,,,,
went back out, had the oil pan removed within a half hour, oil drained, truck jacked up & on stands, everything, done it a few times already.
Decided to get more serious with the visual inspection, put a socket on the crank, with the oil pan removed, splash pan removed as well, watching the rod caps, piston wrist pins, everything...
Then something alittle further up caught my eye during the hand turning...
That would be a cam lobe, seriously NOT smooth, pitted & grooved, one of the first on the front of the engine.
went back out, had the oil pan removed within a half hour, oil drained, truck jacked up & on stands, everything, done it a few times already.
Decided to get more serious with the visual inspection, put a socket on the crank, with the oil pan removed, splash pan removed as well, watching the rod caps, piston wrist pins, everything...
Then something alittle further up caught my eye during the hand turning...
That would be a cam lobe, seriously NOT smooth, pitted & grooved, one of the first on the front of the engine.
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K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
holy hell, nice find. i wouldn't have found that till the cam came out.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks like you had a lifter go poo poo.
Well, now you get to pull the heads, and the front of the motor in order to remove the cam and lifters.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Yay,,, I know, not too thrilled either. :-/
We'll see what I can get done tomorrow. I know there's going to be alot of cleaning though.
I don't think you don't have to pull heads on these motors.
This is the cam only swap procedure.
Get yourself 16 pencil type magnets, The "LS" motors have "lifter holdups" on them from the factory, the magnets are double insurance.
Remove front of engine as needed to get to cam shaft and timeing chain, remove valve covers, loosen rockers and remove them, remove push rods, then slide a pencil magnetinto each pushrod bore and rotate cam to push the lifters up and the holdups will keep them up,or the magnets will.
Then you can remove the cam
Since you will need to do the lifters or at least the one I would try removing the intake and "valley pan" and then I think you can get to the lifters.
Worth a try so you don't need new head bolts and gaskets.
This is the cam only swap procedure.
Get yourself 16 pencil type magnets, The "LS" motors have "lifter holdups" on them from the factory, the magnets are double insurance.
Remove front of engine as needed to get to cam shaft and timeing chain, remove valve covers, loosen rockers and remove them, remove push rods, then slide a pencil magnetinto each pushrod bore and rotate cam to push the lifters up and the holdups will keep them up,or the magnets will.
Then you can remove the cam
Since you will need to do the lifters or at least the one I would try removing the intake and "valley pan" and then I think you can get to the lifters.
Worth a try so you don't need new head bolts and gaskets.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/91504/Hands-on-with-GM-LS-roller-lifters?Page=4
I understand what you're saying about the cam swap, by not needing to pull the heads, they mention that in this write up, but to change out the lifters, the heads need to come off, I can leave all intake stuff alone apparently.
And honestly if I'm going to go through with the trouble of removing the heads, I'm going to go ahead and replace all the lifters with new ones, in the hopes of getting more life out of it.
Trying to decide now, if I want to go ahead and toss an RV type cam in it or not,,, any opinions?
I understand what you're saying about the cam swap, by not needing to pull the heads, they mention that in this write up, but to change out the lifters, the heads need to come off, I can leave all intake stuff alone apparently.
And honestly if I'm going to go through with the trouble of removing the heads, I'm going to go ahead and replace all the lifters with new ones, in the hopes of getting more life out of it.
Trying to decide now, if I want to go ahead and toss an RV type cam in it or not,,, any opinions?
I know you will, but keep looking for other problems. I am amazed that a bad cam lobe would make that sound.
It just had more of a ringing sound. I would have expected a tapping, and that it would have been constant instead of intermittent.
It just had more of a ringing sound. I would have expected a tapping, and that it would have been constant instead of intermittent.
Since its getting the cam pulled I would put a non-stock cam back in and if your looking for a cam that wont affect driveabilty, look for a 02+ zo6 cam and springs. It won't effect anything, Ive got a 01 zo6 cam, springs, and push rods with around 30,000 miles on them I was going to put in my 00 GMC but never got around it I might sell.
I just hadn't paid attention to the actual layout of everything. Once you have one head off you might as well have two off and bring it back up new.
I am sure your seeing the beauty of the newer architecture of these motors and their gaskets. Everything is reusable most of the time and their is little reason to replace gaskets.
These engines like "big" camshafts. However my understanding is that in order to make a real difference you have to change push-rods and springs most of the time too. I would check around and see what the cost is, and is that something you want to spend $$ on.
There are other Factory application cams that do work well I I just don't know all the specifics of that part of the equation.
