What would be the best traction device in a D60 for a trail only rig?
Who is running what? And would you change it?
Who is running what? And would you change it?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Whats the best traction device 4 a D60
- Thread starter clarkjw24
- Start date
sandawgk5
3/4 ton status
I do not have one yet but when my rig becomes trail only it will have a Detroit in the front.
Ira
Ira
I prefer Detroit and have them in both axles of my truggy (D60/C14FF) and the rear of my K5 (C14FF). The front of my K5 (D60) has a LockRite.
A D60 LockRite is very beefy and should be fine with my 35" tires on the K5, but I ate one pretty quick in my truggy with 42s. It worked well in my truggy for a while, and a friend has run one with 42s in a heavy F250 for YEARS (and several broken axles) with no trouble, so YMMV. Still, the K5 has a LR only because that's what came in it and I have no reason to change it for 35s...
ARB is nice when it works, but it's so funny watching the ARB guys on the rocks. Like many species of birds, you can identify them easily by their frequent and distinct mating call. Generally it sounds something like, "Hey, is my diff locked?" often followed by the reply "I dunno man, I don't think so...".
A D60 LockRite is very beefy and should be fine with my 35" tires on the K5, but I ate one pretty quick in my truggy with 42s. It worked well in my truggy for a while, and a friend has run one with 42s in a heavy F250 for YEARS (and several broken axles) with no trouble, so YMMV. Still, the K5 has a LR only because that's what came in it and I have no reason to change it for 35s...
ARB is nice when it works, but it's so funny watching the ARB guys on the rocks. Like many species of birds, you can identify them easily by their frequent and distinct mating call. Generally it sounds something like, "Hey, is my diff locked?" often followed by the reply "I dunno man, I don't think so...".
Last edited:
85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
depends on what you want to spend. Mine is welded, know I do have hydro assist and crossover so it makes it easier to steer, but I DO still notice it but it isnt worth the $400+ for a detroit at the moment.
The ARB's are nice though you have to make sure they are hooked up right or they wont work, they also have alot of other "compnents" that need to be installed.
but if I had about $500 to spend I would just get a detroit for the simplicity and they are pretty strong.
The ARB's are nice though you have to make sure they are hooked up right or they wont work, they also have alot of other "compnents" that need to be installed.
but if I had about $500 to spend I would just get a detroit for the simplicity and they are pretty strong.
txfiremank5
1/2 ton status
I have detroits for the front and rear, but still have not installed everything. Still in the hunter-gatherer stage.
As for your question, I think it depends on the "trail". All types of wheeling.. or rocks only? I think a detroit is a great choice.. but if I were going to limit myself to rocks only ... I might would just use a spool. Most any, or all, turning in rocks is done under power/throttle .. so it's going to be locked anyway.. might as well save the money and go with a spool for less. It's a little different in other trail conditions where you may not be under power/throttle when turning.. and it would be nice to have the front unlock for those turns.
As for your question, I think it depends on the "trail". All types of wheeling.. or rocks only? I think a detroit is a great choice.. but if I were going to limit myself to rocks only ... I might would just use a spool. Most any, or all, turning in rocks is done under power/throttle .. so it's going to be locked anyway.. might as well save the money and go with a spool for less. It's a little different in other trail conditions where you may not be under power/throttle when turning.. and it would be nice to have the front unlock for those turns.
What, there's no "I'm naked" option.
-- A
-- A
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
I run a lockright in my 10 bolt but it was in the axle when I bought it. It works well offroad but if I was going to go buy a locker for a D60 that was going into a trail only truck the only option in my mind is a full Detroit. Nothing less then proven strength and reliability. I will never play the ARB is it on or off game or deal with having to wonder if the locker is a weak point.
Harley
Harley
jrpeebles
Registered Member
My D.D. has Detroits front and rear. My offroad truck runs Detroit rear with a very tight Powr Lok up front. Steering is a little easier with the Powr Lok, but it seems to hold almost like my Detroits. Don't go with a spool or the weld your front end - you will definately have a hard time turning while moving slowly. If I was to build another front end I would do so with another Powr Lok.
Thanks for the replys guys.
I wouldn't buy an ARB anyway, I just put it in the poll. I was just wondering about the strength of the lock rite which is half the price of a detroit. Russ you pretty much explained it all. I'm running 42s and 5.13s now. I don't frequent lots of rocks (mostly mountain trails) but I hope to make the trip out to Moab next year. So its looking like a detroit to insure that my front does what I want it to do.
Anymore comments from the peanut gallery?
I wouldn't buy an ARB anyway, I just put it in the poll. I was just wondering about the strength of the lock rite which is half the price of a detroit. Russ you pretty much explained it all. I'm running 42s and 5.13s now. I don't frequent lots of rocks (mostly mountain trails) but I hope to make the trip out to Moab next year. So its looking like a detroit to insure that my front does what I want it to do.
Anymore comments from the peanut gallery?
jrpeebles
Registered Member
If cost is a concern, I think you should try a Powr Lok. They are common in rear Dana 60's and can be had used for very little $$$. Add new clutches, safety wire the bolts,(they will eventually loosen up - do not just locktite them)and set up your ring and pinion.They work extremely well in all types of terrain.
jrpeebles said:
What kind of price are we talking about? There aren't any yards around here with D60s so I'd have to buy one from someone or evilbay. What did they come in? Can you run 5.13s with it?
jrpeebles
Registered Member
Any gears - there is a high case and a low case. High case goes to 4.10s, and the low does 4.56s and lower.You can use a ring gear spacer on a high case to save a little coin-they are usually easier to find than the low case. These are coming out of Dana 60 rear ends. As for money, it's been several years since I have had one set up, but I would say not including gear set up probably around $350 for the case, new clutches, safety wiring,etc. etc.
Comment from a web wheeling member of the peanut gallery:
There's a lot of talk on the skull 'n' bones board about how blowing a front shaft will knock teeth off an automatic and at the very worst grenade it. I have no personal experience and it doesn't sound like many of the guys that claim it "could happen" do either.
That being said, I'm happy with the l/s unit in my 60 for now but when it's time for a locker, a Detroit would probably get the nod but I'm interested in the new selectable from Teraflex, just wish someone would come up with something other than air to operate a selectable.
There's a lot of talk on the skull 'n' bones board about how blowing a front shaft will knock teeth off an automatic and at the very worst grenade it. I have no personal experience and it doesn't sound like many of the guys that claim it "could happen" do either.
That being said, I'm happy with the l/s unit in my 60 for now but when it's time for a locker, a Detroit would probably get the nod but I'm interested in the new selectable from Teraflex, just wish someone would come up with something other than air to operate a selectable.
I meant what type of vehicles have them. I live in south carolina were no one has ever seen a 1ton 4x4. No snow, no mountains, no need for 4x4s. 
Mikey doesn't eaton make an electric locker? I've got a l/s in my 10bolt now and it does alright (haven't broke any shafts with the 42s) but I looking for an absolute no b.s. lock.
clarkjw24 said:
Yeah, but they haven't gotten very good reviews. Besides, I'd rather have air at my diffs than an electric motor. current + mud = eventual
BTW, your rig looks killer man. The hummers will make it look even better when you get 'em all on there.
mikey_d05 said:Yeah, but they haven't gotten very good reviews. Besides, I'd rather have air at my diffs than an electric motor. current + mud = eventual
Yeah selectable just scares me. It adds one more thing in the chain of things that could go wrong.
mikey_d05 said:
Thanks. I've got them all on, just haven't snapped any pics yet. Maybe tommorrow since the work week is over.
i went detroit x2 as i have 2 units for 60/14ff and new 5.13 yukons. yet to install but thay are old and still working for all of use so thats why i got them. scored a used front for 4.56 -up off ebay with 25 miles on it shipped for 425 to my door.
atho
1/2 ton status
jrpeebles said:
Not quite that easy...
I am stuck in the same quandary, and it seems that building a used power-lock with a rebuild and extra clutch packs will be the most cost effective.
However...
I too am going to run 5.13 gears. That means we'd need the 4.56 and down power-lock carrier.
the tricky part is, most D60 rears are 30 spline. Fronts are 35.
there is a kit available from dana-spicer to convert a 30 spline power-lock to 35, but I don't know how much it would cost. (anyone know?)
or, I could find a used D70 power-lock, and cannibalize the parts from it to make the D60 unit 35 spline.
then add in the new clutches and posi lube.
however I don't have any powerlocks laying around, and most people seem to want around $100 for them, used, needing rebuilt.
might just be money ahead to go get the detroit.
also, iirc, brand new units can still be had but they are slightly more $$ than a detroit.
either way, I'd prefer a detroit or power-lock (or ARB, etc) over a lockright because they replace the carrier with a beefier than stock piece. one less thing to worry about, I suppose.
my 2 cents.
stallion85
1/2 ton status
I don't have a 60 but I do have a 44 with an ARB front and a Detroit in my 14ff. I like the option of running the front like an open diff on hard turn decents and climbs to keeep less stress off the u joints in the axle shafts. Then again the 60 is far superior to my D44.......I would think the ARB would be the best IMO for any front axle 
