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Whats the best traction device 4 a D60

D60 traction device

  • Total voters
    190
hevent got to thrash my rig yet... detroited front and rear....
wouldnt have it any other way...
since I scored my d60 cheap... like so cheap that $250 got me a front d60, rollbar, factory tach, radiator, dual tanks wiring, etch.. (complete truck on 38's stripped for parts).... I dropped $1200 and got 4.56's for the front.. detroit replacement carrier and detroit for rear...front rebuild kit too....

I am always trying to go the cheap route... however im starting to realize there is no way to do that..... save up is what everyone tells me and that is what im starting to do.... do it right the first time and on your first shot...

lockers depend on how hard you wanna wheel... remember lockers may be tough on drivetrain.. however if you have more traction... may mean less throttle and less broken parts... I like trail riding and mud.... no rocks..im not bashing rocks but dont understand the fun as I have no patience..... same as games.. rather play quake iii arena then ghost recon... :crazy:

I watch movies all the time and see people getting stuck or cant get out or go over a mound.. usually you see open axles and they are reving it to try and go...... with lockers would have had less skinny pedal...


that being said.. any locker you will be happy...eeeeehh.. happier.... :haha:
 
I have Detroit's front and rear (60f-14ff) and I am amazed at the traction.
I only run 35's and I dont really notice it on the road either. As for selectable locker's they are too much $$ for me and lots can go wrong, I have selectable hubs so daily driving is great. Has any1 had to drain water from there ARB air lines or case like an air compressor????
 
***detroit***

Very good advice in here.Save up and do it right the first time.The Detroit carrier is much stronger than the others and you will have the peace of mind(as much as possible,anyway) of knowing that when you are slipping or sliding on rocks and your tires solidly gain traction when your on the gas that nothing is gonna snap.When I'm bouncing up and down through a deep mudhole I don't worry when I hit bottom and my tires grab and I'm laying 400 HP down.4x4 goes hand in hand with one other word-overkill.That's why I just got a D60 for my frontend-I haven't broke my 10 bolt but I know it's just a matter of time.It costs more now but less later.
 
Either the Detroit or Lock-right.

If you have the money, or if you have 39"+ tires, get the Detroit.

If you are on a budget and run under 39" tires you can get by with a Lock-right.

I've ran a Lock-right in my front 60 with 38" Swampers for several years with no problems. It's also survived 2 broken stubs and a broken necked-down inner with no apparent issues. However a buddy ran one in his 7,000 lb. big block Ford, it survived with 38's but gave up the ghost not long as 42's were mounted.
 
I voted for a spool. BUt if money were no object, I'd get an ARB. Wheeled with JK5 a few times and never seen him have a problem with his!
 
Just a little detour, Ive always been wondering what the difference between a "spool" and a "mini-spool" is ?
 
TLCOR said:
Just a little detour, Ive always been wondering what the difference between a "spool" and a "mini-spool" is ?
Click to expand...

I could be wrong, but a mini spool only replaces your spider gears.

A "spool" is a whole differential replacement.
 
If you would like to do it the right way save and save you money!!! To do a 60 right the first time from just a houseing about $3000.00 to $4500.00 :crazy: That's the way I build thing's ;) Do It right the fist time :D

That way, If you brake It :crazy: you know you need some thing Biger :( 2.5 ton's:haha:

Dana 60 front houseing $550.00
5.13 $195.00
ARB $760.00
Master Kit $107.60
SRW Hubs from GM$300.00
King Pin Kit $110.00
Yukon 4340 35 spline $470.00
Locking Hubs $210.00
Hub Bearing's $ N/A
Yoke $ N/A
U-Joints $ N/A
Hight stear $700.00
New Diff Cover $145.00
Mis. Parts $200.00
You do the Math :doah: :doah: That's just parts not time :haha:


N/A, Have not obtained as of this time!!!!
 
steve_kibbe said:
I could be wrong, but a mini spool only replaces your spider gears.

A "spool" is a whole differential replacement.
Click to expand...

OK thanks, the technical english phrases seems to confuse me some. But besides that my english is alright ?
 
I recently bought the Detroit for my front D60 (already had the rear in, w/5.13's). Cost $620. Definitely worth an extra $200-$300 over some of the lesser alternatives, which eventually only lead to 'Detroit envy". Now I just have to make some 'bomb proof' driveshafts to back them. I did go with hydro assist crossover and the ORD twin stick to assist in the steering department. You need to consider the whole package rather than the individual components.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
I voted for a spool. BUt if money were no object, I'd get an ARB. Wheeled with JK5 a few times and never seen him have a problem with his!
Click to expand...

You also drove it too. **cough**

I have found the ARB to be quite a reliable locker...myself.
No issues at all..in fact I'm using a 4.10 carrier with a homemade spacer for the 5.13's. Yes...altho I have had some issues with forgetting it's there... :doah: But...there's nothing that will turn better than an open carrier on tite wet trails. I've had many a Jeeper with detroits ask how I can turn better than him. ;)
 
clarkjw24 said:
What would be the best traction device in a D60 for a trail only rig?
Click to expand...

I would think tires would be a must. I don't care if it is a D60, you're not getting any traction without tires.






:haha: Man, I crack myself up! :haha: :rolleyes:
 
mrk5 said:
I would think tires would be a must. I don't care if it is a D60, you're not getting any traction without tires.
:haha: Man, I crack myself up! :haha: :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Good one but how do you get tires "in" a D60?
:rolleyes:
 
I got my dana 60 detroit for $460 or $480 (I don't remember) from porc (call them, their website doesn't show everything they have which is pretty much everything).
 
mikey_d05 said:
Yeah, but they haven't gotten very good reviews. Besides, I'd rather have air at my diffs than an electric motor. current + mud = eventual :yikes:
Click to expand...

There are 2 different electric selectable lockers. The Detroit Electrac, and the Eaton E-Locker.

The Electrac is a limited slip when not engaged, and a full spool when engaged.
The E-Locker is open diff when off, and spool when on.

The Electrac has the big servo thingy hanging off of the (required) diff cover with shift fork built in. Sure, it has a skid plate, but no thanks. Design looks WAY too vulnerable. And I THINk the Electrac is the one getting all of the bad reviews.

The E-locker is OEM equipment in the H2. So far, the offroad community seems to like them.
I am just basing these comments on about an hours worth of searching on pirate, so my 2 cents.

I'd like to run an E-Locker, they're pricey but a little cheaper than ARB ($650).
 
I had an ARB in my 44 and now in my 60.And I would have to say I will never run anything else.An ARB gives you everything a Detroit does but you can turn it off when you dont need it.

Ya gotta laugh at the "are both my tires spinnin?" folks.I have never been "that guy".I have it off 95% of the time.You would be surprised the things you can do and how far you can go with an open front dif :D
 
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