Im guessing yall removed the factory valve on the radiator cross memeber? I was planning on putting mine right back where the factory one was.
CK5
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Where have you mounted your Adjustable Prop Valve
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
no, I left it there.
I'm planing on taking the valve out and replacing it with hardline to the front and rear. Meaning, hardline from the MC down to where the factory valve is, but replace with a T fitting and out to the fronts. For the rears, hardline to valve, then to electric brake, then all hardline to rear. They will be completely separate of each other.
sound ok?
sound ok?
I'm eliminating the factory prop valve all together. Just running a front line to a T, then to each wheel, and a rear line with the adjustable prop valve, then to a stainless ball valve (for parking brake), then to the rear T, then each wheel.
I like it. Ball valve in middle is for rear, best $25 mod I've ever done. I used an electric for the front so I didn't have to plumb in to cab. It works well to take one line down to front and then split also, no more stretching lines at the wheels.
factory valve is just a tee for front anyways.
and rear is biased/restricted but factory set.
so this mod is perfectly normall.
and rear is biased/restricted but factory set.
so this mod is perfectly normall.
Similar setup on Claudia's FJ40- except the p-brake. We put the Wilwood valve right at the master in the rear line. In best interwebs fashion, we got to hear that this was going to spontaneously combust/explode/leave your unsuspecting passenger with a tattoo (or however you spell that...) on their left cheek. Best case scenario was that it would simply break, leaving the truck with no brakes, and kill an unsuspecting busload of nuns. None of this has happened in 5 years of trails. Brakes on the '40 work fine. Haven't changed anything after the initial adjustment.
Do you want to adjust f/r brake bias while driving? In that case, a little more plumbing might be in order.
awesome, I vaguely remembered your system of levers and such, and having the capabillity to do about anything braking wise you wanted. I like the simplicity of a ball valve, we use em for everything at work, so I'm familiar with em too.
I thought there was an vehicle load sensing thing-a-ma-bob in that combo valve too Brett?
Awesome description Michael, I've seen them used plenty in streetrods and never heard any horror stories about them. So your looking for another way to get a tatoo then right?
My old room mate's IMCA Modified had a crank on the dash to adjust the brakes bias. It used two separate master cylinders though.
Martin
Martin
wasn't the load sensing thing in the back? Under the bed, to sense weight, and release more fluid (or pressure) to the rear brakes
never seen one here, heard they were seen more in logging country (oregon) lol
never seen one here, heard they were seen more in logging country (oregon) lol
yes, that is what I had and replaced it with the adj. prop. valve.
Nope, I'm way too old for this
. And when I'm riding shotgun in the '40 (as I did for the recent holiday trail rides because my truck was down), I try my best to simply hang on. It's actually a pretty good workout for abs and right arm...
Re adjustable prop valve in accessible location so to be able to adjust as needed: If I were to do this - and I won't, just as a disclaimer - I would (1) run the rear brake line through the cab and put the valve where I could reach it, and (2) make some kind of marking/scale. The Wilwood valve we used has an unmarked dial, making it difficult to keep track of the setting.
heavy 3/4 or 1ton had factory adjustable load sensing valve.
by now these things were junk. remove and toss it. never realy worked exactly right anyways. most all that have still stock trucks and bypassed have reported better brakeing with it gone.
by now these things were junk. remove and toss it. never realy worked exactly right anyways. most all that have still stock trucks and bypassed have reported better brakeing with it gone.
No, the IMCA guys use a crank.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/US-Brake-Crank-Type-Bias-Adjusters,41395.html
Martin
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/US-Brake-Crank-Type-Bias-Adjusters,41395.html
Martin
I gotta go with get a knob style. Once you set it, you leave it. The lever one would get hit easier I would think. Also I would be scared that if it was mounted vertically it could slowly fall down and change on you. I just put a green paint pen mark on mine to get a better feel for where its at.
