Who else goes by this?

[NEK5]

I`m just wondering if there is anyone else out there that KNOWS they have rot, and just repair the structural stuff, ie rockers, cab supports, rad support, tail pan, etc, and focus on having a strong, solid, reliable drivetrain?

The reason I ask is, I know theres more rot on my rig. I`m sure sooner or later my rad support will have it. Then, because we really only did a good enough job to get by on the cab floor, (ie. the metal that was good at the time that we left to have a place to weld, is now rotting), within a year or so, it will most likely need to be redone.

Now being my DD, and the fact the we can have some pretty bad winters, as well as the heavy amounts of salt we use around here, its bound to happen again, so I just can see spending not only the $500-$1000 to do it the right way, but the countless hours that would go into it.

So, I`m wondering what you guys do. Care to share?

 

[vortec]

no offense, but i love living in the south (inland, not beach). rust is something that happens to us after decades, not years. my k5 is 25 years old and all i've had to do is patch two holes in the floor about the size of my fist. i patched them fast, cheap and ugly with ats fiberglass duct epoxy. but it's not my dd and you can only see the ugliness from inside the cab (yeah, i ripped all my padding/mat out the first week i had the thing).

 

[obijuan]

rust, whats that? i would say if you want to keep it your DD swap a good tub on it or sell it. but if i were you i would wheel it and forget the DD duty for the winters.

 

[muddermilitia]

rust, whats that? i would say if you want to keep it your DD swap a good tub on it or sell it. but if i were you i would wheel it and forget the DD duty for the winters.

that doesn't make any sense Ben, your best bet is to fix the major stuff and drive it as little in the winter as possible. Buy a beater to drive in the winter.

 

[Pookster]

The reason I ask is, I know theres more rot on my rig. I`m sure sooner or later my rad support will have it. Then, because we really only did a good enough job to get by on the cab floor, (ie. the metal that was good at the time that we left to have a place to weld, is now rotting), within a year or so, it will most likely need to be redone.

At some point even if you have the most reliable drive train, if your body is rotted out, it becomes a danger for you to be driving around in. Some people have had their seatbelts rip out.

All I can say is, if your already doing the repair, spend the time to take care of the weld area-Dont stop after you did the big work, the welds generally are the first to rust! paint them right away, or use a sealer. Im not certain if galvanizing spray works, but I use it quite liberally- and it seems to hold up quite well.

 

[ryoken]

I`m just wondering if there is anyone else out there that KNOWS they have rot, and just repair the structural stuff, ie rockers, cab supports, rad support, tail pan, etc, and focus on having a strong, solid, reliable drivetrain?

The reason I ask is, I know theres more rot on my rig. I`m sure sooner or later my rad support will have it. Then, because we really only did a good enough job to get by on the cab floor, (ie. the metal that was good at the time that we left to have a place to weld, is now rotting), within a year or so, it will most likely need to be redone.

Now being my DD, and the fact the we can have some pretty bad winters, as well as the heavy amounts of salt we use around here, its bound to happen again, so I just can see spending not only the $500-$1000 to do it the right way, but the countless hours that would go into it.

So, I`m wondering what you guys do. Care to share?

Do a section at a time, THE RIGHT WAY, and it wont come back...

I mean blasting, cut out bad steel, zinc and weld-thru primer, seam sealer, epoxy & urethane paint...

If you replaced your tailpan, and went out a foot in all directions, and did it right, it wont come back... Then do other spots later..

problem is nobody wants to do that... They justify their hack work, then bitch when it comes back...

It's alot of work Ben to do it right.... But it can be done...

 

[gmc4cw]

rust, whats that? i would say if you want to keep it your DD swap a good tub on it or sell it. but if i were you i would wheel it and forget the DD duty for the winters.

a good tub, whats that? selling it is even harder since everyone knows it rotted.

I would wheel the piss out of it. But fixing it right is not much more work then a hack job. Ryoken is right.

 

[Currank5]

I'm in the same boat as you right now. My truck runs great, and i've done some body work before but the rust comes back and gets worse. I've put some patches in the floor but it was just a temporary fix. The rust has spread and i've decided to just drop some coin on some new floorpans.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

One piece at a time, and in the meantime, take care of it. Regular washes in the winter, at least once a week. Don't let slush build up under it.


At some point however, you do have to ask, if it would be easier to just buy a southern tub, POR-15 it, and swap it on top of your durable drivetrain.

 

[Pookster]

You know whats funny? One of the major reasons we have tail rot on these trucks is because there was not suitable mud flaps. Adding nice big mud flaps cut down all the dirt that can make its way up into those nooks and crannies. Especially the winter salt.

 

[lectric80]

I'm in the same situation Ben, and am slowly buying the parts I need to replace the rusted sections of floor for my K5. What I have decided to do however is replace the entire floor at one time, including the tailpan, then Rhinoline the entire thing to hopefully prevent the rust from returning for a long time. I will work on rockers, rear quarters, and exterior body stuff later, but right now I just want a safe rig, with no holes in the floor. I know the cost is going to be a pain for me, but when I am done, I know I won't have any problems for a long while.

 

[Chevy305]

I went cheap on the rear bed fenders on my truck and I can already see it start to bubble. But you really have to be looking hard to see it. I also cheaped out on the core support and now that is falling appart... Learn from me don't go cheap

But I REALLY have to get the underside of my body coated before winter though, or I will loose all the new fancy metal under there and quickly!

 

[NEK5]

Thanks Guys, I guess I know what to do. I know we just did all that work in the back, but there was some rusted metal in there that we didn`t cut out, like on the inner quarter, and the panels I got aren`t exactly the best available(LMC) and really fit terrible. I have a feeling though, that my "hack job" fixes will eventually rust out again, and I`ll end up swapping a p/u cab onto my frame, and Rust Bulletting the crap out of it, and either build a trick flat bed, or shorten a shortbed, or possibly shorten and cap off the blazer bed. I`ll also use my front clip, because I love the 89-91 front ends. So basically, I`ll just be replacing the "cab area". I`ll have a bed, just need to shorten it, and cap it off, and I`ll have the front clip.

That will probably just be my solution to the rust on my blazer tub. I don`t carrier passengers much, and if I do, its just 1. Most likely, within the next year, I`ll pick up a p/u cab, hopefully a clean 87, so that most of the wiring is the same, for the TBI, comp, etc...and if it needs body work, I`ll take my time, have someone teach me the basics, then do it the right way, as ryoken said. Blast it, if needed, cut out bad steel, zinc primer, etc....Then I shouldn`t have a problem, and it will be a much better truck for me, IMO. But for now, I`ll just have to get the most use out of my rig as possible. Probably wheel the piss out of it.

I`m all about having something different, ie weld cab wall on blazer tub, or the little halftop. Around here, there`s nothing "different". Not only will it be different, but it will give me the perfect time to swap motors and install my new tranny, and give me the DD I`ve always wanted.