CK5
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Who off-roads a manual?

Do you off-road with a manual or automatic tranny?

  • Manual (4spd ect.)

    Votes: 113 62.1%
  • Automatic Th400 700r4 ect.

    Votes: 69 37.9%

  • Total voters
    182

viperrgh2

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I'm building a K5 with 44s and a big block, I really want a manual for driving it on the road but I plan on off-roading it alot and some pretty serious off road to but mostly like driving over stuff and mudding not really any rock crawling. Anyways I was wondering how many of you guys off-road manuals? I'm afraid it's going to be to hard.... any opinions and personal experiences appreciated. Thanks
 
Me. 1974 K10, SM465, Hydro clutch, NP205/203 triple sticked, D60/14bff with 4:10s, both axles with Detroits, and 38" TSL's.
 
I plan on off-roading it alot and some pretty serious off road to but mostly like driving over stuff and mudding not really any rock crawling.

I'm afraid it's going to be to hard

I would think it would be most difficult to have a manual when rockcrawling, but I'm a total 4x4 n00b so I could be wrong. So if you're looking to do everything besides rockcrawling, then go for the manual.
 
I used to wheel a 1978 ford bronco with a 4spd with granny low. In low range with granny low you could walk faster. I had posi front detroit rear. That truck would go anywhere!!

Now I have a 1972 Jimmy that will see little to no wheeling. It has an automatic.
 
Ive got an 83K20 with the good ol SM465 and love it. I had a 85k20 with a turbo 400 and thought it was alright, till i got a stick. Im not sure i could go back to an auto:D
 
I have a trailer queen, 60f & 70r with 7.17s, locked at both ends, 21.5 x 16.1 ag tires, 203/205 doubler and there is no way that I would consider a manual for my application.

Gus
 
I wheel with my sm465, it works great. As for being tricky in the rocks, it can be but a hand throttle is an easy fix or you can use the heal toe method
 
I agree with 38377K5, I run a 465 in my truck. I mostly try to get over big rocks, generally with fairly good luck. With my 37" tires, 465 and 408 T case and 4.88 gear ratio it puts me at 98.3 crawl ratio. Something that we were discussing this weekend is that a manual shift may cause the driver to plan his line a little more in advance than an automatic does. I will have problems with stall out that an automatic won't (sic.) when I get in a particularly steep situation and I'm trying hard to be extra careful. I have thought about the thumb throttle but that as far as that has gone.
 
One big advantage to the SM465 (4 speed manual) that was offered in K5's is that is geared significantly lower than any of the autos and its much more reliable.

The stock 465/208 combo is geared low enough that you probably wouldn't even consider replacing it with a doubler.

There are advantages to an auto too of course, primarily removing that third pedal.

I'm at the point in rock crawling that an automatic transmission would probably make the truck perform better but I'm going to keep the 4 speed. I'm not competing against anyone and I prefer the manual.


Its really more personal choice as opposed to which one's "better"
 
I plan on doing mostly light off-road like simple dirt trails and inclines ect. and the most extreme things would be like mud bogging which seems manual will be fine. I don't really plan on doing any serious rock crawling cause the rest of my truck isn't really good for it and I don't live near any serious rock crawling... Def considering the manual as a better option now.. Can anyone explain the "hydro clutch"? Thanks... I personally like manual over automatic as far as choice but Ive always though off-roading with a manual and big tires would just be almost impossible....
 
Hydraulic clutches are on most vehicle from the 80's to present. They aren't power assist, they just use hydraulic lines to route pressure from the pedal to the clutch fork (rather than a mechanical linkage).

I don't know why everyone loves the hydro clutch stuff so much, my mechanical linkage works just fine :dunno:
 
Probably because the hydro clutch compensates for clutch wear, and it tends to have a bit less pedal effort.

I run an auto, but when I swap to a diesel I will probably run an SM465 with an OD box. With my 241 and 4.56's I will have an 81:1 crawl ratio. From what Rene and others say it is darn near stall-proof when wheeling thanks to the diesel's idle governor. I like the laziness of an auto for normal driving, but I want the bullet-proofness of the manual, and it doesn't get much more bullet-proof than an SM465 :D
 
I found a circle head light k5 (late 70's) locally its has a manual tranny and a 12 bolt rear. Would this tranny be a 465 or were there weaker trannys as options, also any idea what tc would most likely be bolted up to it?
 
I found a circle head light k5 (late 70's) locally its has a manual tranny and a 12 bolt rear. Would this tranny be a 465 or were there weaker trannys as options, also any idea what tc would most likely be bolted up to it?

It would have an SM465 and NP205 transfer case.
 
The spec's page is your friend for that info.

The only 4-speed manuals used in K-5's were SM465's. It could have a 3-speed though. Either way the tc is a 205.
 
My truck came with a built Th400 in it when I bought it. I wheeled it for a while but hated it. You can't beat the control of a manual. I'm in the middle of swapping my 400/205 out for a 465/203/205. Good bye 23:1 crawl ratio hello 119:1 crawl.

A buddy of mine always says "Remember, with an auto, the slower you go, the hotter it runs, but with a manual, the slower you go, the cooler it runs"
 
Took a ride in my buddy's 82 K20 with a th350 and I will never get an auto. The thing kept shifting up and to make hill climbs in a heavy ass truck you need to be at high rpm, not bogging down from wrong gear selection.

I have been wheeling my 465 for 4 years now and I can say I have never had a problem with it ever. The reliablity is unmatched. Sure you build an auto but when its all said and done you in it for over $1k when you can get an SM465 for under $200 and will still outlast the rest of your truck.
 
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