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Who's busted the Tranny/Transfer Adapter

Cool, thanks for all the feedback. I guess here is my dilema...do I replace teh adapter now, or wait until it gets worse? My first thought was that I should wait, but now I am thinking that if that crack is getting worse every time I drive that I need to do it NOW. I will leave the tranny in the truck and just yank off the transfer case.
 
I have broken 2 465/208 adaptors. fixed it the third time by getting a doubler :D. Make sure that the motor mounts and trans mounts are the same material (poly/poly or rubber/rubber) If they are different the motor will want to twist differently than the trans as rubber is more giving than poly. (this is why I broke the first one) I attribute the second brake to extreme frame flex, ok well extreme frame broke. I should have realized the frame was not right when I kept popping the pivot on the clutch.

I think the brace will help but definately look into those other things.
 
Anybody got a part number for the oil seal in the adapter? The closest I came was Federal Mogul #473214, but that seemed a tad small...Also, I assume that GM gaskets are teh way to go front and rear instead of just a crap load of RTV?
 
SCOOBYDANNN said:
I have broken 2 465/208 adaptors. fixed it the third time by getting a doubler :D. Make sure that the motor mounts and trans mounts are the same material (poly/poly or rubber/rubber) If they are different the motor will want to twist differently than the trans as rubber is more giving than poly. (this is why I broke the first one) I attribute the second brake to extreme frame flex, ok well extreme frame broke. I should have realized the frame was not right when I kept popping the pivot on the clutch.

I think the brace will help but definately look into those other things.
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sorry, little hijack here,

Scooby, Did you have rubber motor mounts and poly trans/tcase mounts? or other way round?
 
noahrob said:
Cool, thanks for all the feedback. I guess here is my dilema...do I replace teh adapter now, or wait until it gets worse? My first thought was that I should wait, but now I am thinking that if that crack is getting worse every time I drive that I need to do it NOW. I will leave the tranny in the truck and just yank off the transfer case.
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Replace it ASAP. When it lets go, its probably taking other stuff with it.
 
Well I guess you could call this cracked, so mark me down for one. :D Took out the front driveshaft and the clutch linkage at the same time too. :( It's okay though, I still towed a jeep home on the highway with it like that.

DSC00018.sized.jpg
 
SCOOBYDANNN said:
yup, rubber motor and poly trans.
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we were just discussing this the other day, if you have it that way it will crack but the other way around and you'd be OK. Arresting the motor torque and allowing the tranny to float a bit more. Anyway, thanks!

Hijack off.
 
huh, good to know. my friend has It that way (poly motor and rubber trans) and I wasn't sure if it would break. Makes sence though
 
Ok, I am a dumba*s tonight...what the heck did you guys just say? You want rubber at the motor but poly on the transfer?
 
noahrob said:
Ok, I am a dumba*s tonight...what the heck did you guys just say? You want rubber at the motor but poly on the transfer?
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Nope, that's the opposite of what you want.

Factory, is Rubber/rubber. OK but probably worn out anyway.

From here you should either change both out to poly or poly engine mounts and rubber trans mounts.

Never, mount the trans/tcase with something more resistant to movement than the engine is mounted in.

Works like this, Motor torques when the skinny pedal is mashed. Torque is transmitted through the bell housing and is controlled by the Trans/tcase mount. It must be allowed to move though. Otherwise your trans housing will not be able to take the torque and will crack.

Most say keep them the same but in a pinch I wouldn't be a bit afraid to run harder motor mounts than what the trans tcase has.

I wonder also how much age of the mount would have an effect on the situation? Old polys, do they get less soft?

EHH, I'm just blatherin' on. Mines all mounted solid!:haha:
 
38377k5 said:
Seems like having poly motor mounts with rubber tranny mounts would want to break the bellhousing :dunno:
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Basically your trans housing is becoming somewhat of a torsion tube. Being twisted by the motor. Two ways to combat the twist from overcoming the strength of the transmission housing.

One, take the twist away. Or in other words use a stiffer mount.
two, allow the the trans to unload the force applied by mounting it soft.

This line of thinking only addresses forces applied from the rotation of the engine block within its mounts. Any forces applied via the chassis will and probably do have a different effect. Also, placement of these poly or rubber mounts will have an effect on things as well.
 
As soon as I put comp style engine mounts on, I broke the adapter. Now, I assume that the bushings are poly (Kert, they are yours, so you tell me) whcih makes sense that the transfer case now gets more twist. I will build a quick side mount for the 205 that attaches to theframe to prevent too much spin, but will use some type of bushing mechanism so tha tit can still move some, just not as much...I think that is how the stock brace worked.
 
noahrob said:
As soon as I put comp style engine mounts on, I broke the adapter. Now, I assume that the bushings are poly (Kert, they are yours, so you tell me) whcih makes sense that the transfer case now gets more twist. I will build a quick side mount for the 205 that attaches to theframe to prevent too much spin, but will use some type of bushing mechanism so tha tit can still move some, just not as much...I think that is how the stock brace worked.
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The motor mounts are poly. That would be a step in the right direction to preventing this though! You case should get LESS twist from polyurethane mounted engine. Its much more resistant than the factory rubber. Poly gives less than rubber does.
 
Anybody got a part number for the oil seal in the 465/205 adapter? The closest I came was Federal Mogul #473214, but that seemed a tad small...Also, I assume that GM gaskets (Part numbers 8672160 and 6261466) are the way to go front and rear instead of just a crap load of RTV?
 
noahrob said:
Anybody got a part number for the oil seal in the 465/205 adapter? The closest I came was Federal Mogul #473214, but that seemed a tad small...Also, I assume that GM gaskets (Part numbers 8672160 and 6261466) are the way to go front and rear instead of just a crap load of RTV?
Click to expand...

Give Northwest Fab a call. I probably bought 3 wrong seals from the parts store until I called them. NWF pulled the book out and got me a chicago rawhide (napa IIRC) part # that did the trick.
 
Thanks Matt...spot on. I will post all the part numbers I use once I am done...but so far the part numbers in this thread are all correct.

Check out the pic, that thing was toast...

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