CK5
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Why to convert to coil over

No idea what's going on in this thread but I've been mentioned a lot lol. From what I skimmed over... It seems like the debate is leafs vs links cost and performance? On my shop truck i run radius arms up front, crappy leafs outback with garbage geometry and clapped out OF Bilstein Bypasses and I pull away from Steve in big whoops ‍♂️ this other K5 I'm building with ORD front coilover kit and MUCH better rear leafs with proper geometry and shock placement with a 2.5/12 shock... It's bumped and strapped at 14" with every under the bed. With a much better spring (deaver 64) and a 12" bypass it's realistic to pull 17" out of it WITHOUT going through the bed. I'll be taking it out tomorrow to test so we will see how well it works.

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If you want to keep the stock fuel tank you only get about 4" back from stock. Like @Tnsejed said, the real weight and balance gains are in pushing the front forward but you're not there now. I'd keep the rear push mild so that when you do the front you can push it a bunch and keep the wheelbase around 115-ish. Actually that is exactly what I did.
On my trazer, I moved the rear axle back 5.5 inches and even with a factory gas tank skid plate, 31 gallon tank, a DIY4X razorback diff cover and DIY4X over axle truss/anti-wrap bar, it didn't hit the tank. That was pretty much the absolute limit. Any more and the gas tank would have to be replaced or raised up
 
This other K5 I'm building with ORD front coilover kit and MUCH better rear leafs with proper geometry and shock placement with a 2.5/12 shock... It's bumped and strapped at 14" with every under the bed. With a much better spring (deaver 64) and a 12" bypass it's realistic to pull 17" out of it WITHOUT going through the bed. I'll be taking it out tomorrow to test so we will see how well it works.

Looks nice. How did the test go?
Rear stock location?
Rear 6" lift?
 
Looks nice. How did the test go?
Rear stock location?
Rear 6" lift?
It went great! Needs a lot of shock tuning. The rear springs are already sagging, should have been 6" of lift but now about 4ish. And that's with the back empty! No tools, spare tires or anything. Custom shock mounts and the rear hanger was moved 6" back and the front was moved 2" forward. This let the wheel bump perfectly centered in the wheel well! Zero rubbing with 37's
 
With everything interconnected from computers to electronic sensors to several mechanical components, air suspension require expensive parts and specialty tools to service them. This means a great deal of expense any time anything needs to be serviced or replaced. When owners consider that all air suspension-related expenses are likely to be ongoing for the remainder of the car’s lifetime, replacing an old suspension with one that is brand new makes a great deal of sense in the long run. This is especially true when you consider that a conversion kit will generally cost about the same for the entire car as a replacement for just one air spring.
 
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