Windstar electric fans

[Blue85]

I got interested in these fans last week and found them all over eBay. Found one with the connectors in them for about $40 shipped. Swapped them in last night and buttoned up all the wiring. Great pulling power - Flex a Lite can suck it.

Of course it was much easier for me because I already had electric fans - with relays in my electrical center - controlled by the ECU. So the electric side was just splicing some wires and redressing.

 

[pblaze725]

I took it out on the trail this weekend. After the 2nd or 3rd high speed bump & jump something shorted out my power supply.
I knew something was wrong because I used the same ignition power source for my radio. When the music stopped, I knew I didn't have power going to the fans. It was my audio indicator.

I had to do a quick fix on it.

I'm not 100% satisfied with my wiring.
-I am going to put all my relays & power bars in a water proof box.
- I am going to run 2 different power sources to my switch.
- Hook up an indicator light.
-I am going wrap & tie down everything to a degree of ridiculousness.

 

[ryoken]

I want the Santa Cruz banner...

 

[pblaze725]

I want the Santa Cruz banner...

$20 >>>>> http://socalskateshop.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=10249 <<<<<

 

[pblaze725]

For the indicator light all you have to do is hook up a relay behind the dash that has ignition power then to the switch for the primary fan an hook the light up for 87a. 87a is connected untill you switch it then it turns off

I"m going to try this out this weekend.

Is this what you have in mind?

86- ignition power
85-ground for relay
87-primary fan power at switch?
87A- power to indicator light
30-ground to indicator light

When I turn off 87
87A turns on.

 

[supermotard750]

No 87 will be open

30 will have the power from the switch when on

The indicator light will permanently grounded

Everything else is good

 

[pblaze725]

If 87 is open, does 86 need to be switch power, and not ignition power?

 

[supermotard750]

I don't think so I'll have to go look at a relay dia. Real quick

 

[supermotard750]

You got it. 86 gets switched and 30 gets ignition

 

[pblaze725]

Quick update

I pulled out the switch today and got it hooked up the way I want. It now meets my original criteria which is:

[ON]- constant power running both fans

[OFF]- Both fans off

[ON]- ignition power to primary fan only.

I used a double pole double throw switch with 6 connectors.

Now I am going to work on the indicator light. The one that comes on when I put the switch in the [OFF] position.

Thanks for the input everybody.

 

[pblaze725]

Awesome! The indicator light works as planned.

When I turn the fans off, a red warning light illuminates.


Thanks SuperMotard750!

Now I'm gonna put the relays & power bars in a watertight box & call it done.

I'm post some pics when I get it complete.

 

[supermotard750]

Awesome. Im glad it worked out

 

[pblaze725]

I mounted a watertight box on the sidewall.



I mounted all the wiring inside the box.


I rewired the switch to draw 2 separate power sources, and hooked up a [hey dummy you turned the fan off] indicator light.

Job done.

 

[BoondocK5]

I need to grab one.....and a charcoal cannister...minor fire to repair.

Do tell...

 

[cybrfire]

6 minutes........

Any questions, just ask.

Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

Understand the diode here but doesn't it have to be rated for what the fan will draw?

 

[supermotard750]

For some reason the 6 post double throw double pole switch he used. He didn't need any diodes.

 

[cybrfire]

For some reason the 6 post double throw double pole switch he used. He didn't need any diodes.

But if you used the diode as seen in the diagram?

 

[supermotard750]

As is in that diagram yes. Personally what makes much more sense is to keep The diodes between the switch and the relay this keeps the heat down due to the 2 amps it take to switch a relay as opposed to the 30amps some fans can draw. Especially when your talking about something like a fan that can run for extended periods of time

 

[cybrfire]

As is in that diagram yes. Personally what makes much more sense is to keep The diodes between the switch and the relay this keeps the heat down due to the 2 amps it take to switch a relay as opposed to the 30amps some fans can draw. Especially when your talking about something like a fan that can run for extended periods of time

Now you're making me question the reason for the diode. The way i see it in that diagram, the diode stops current back feed from the fan switching the LED indicator on. Current back feed being generated by the fan motor from air flowing through it while not actually running.

If this is the case, it has to be just before the fan and after the LED indicator.

Yes?

 

[Blue85]

I don't like those diodes. They have to be high power versions (bulky and more costly) and will drop like 0.8V, which reduces the airflow a little. They are only needed for the LEDs, as far as I can tell - to keep them from illuminating a little from the fans generating voltage when they are off. I'm also not sure why there is no current limiting resistor shown on the LEDs. He must have used an LED with the resistor or a current regulator built in. The current regulator could be the culprit for LED lighting when fans are off anyway. Using a standard dropping resistor for a 13V circuit and regular LED should show very little illumination, but I've never tried it. If you can live with the LED before the relay then there is no need for any diodes.

Typically the diodes in these fan circuits are to select only one relay at a time (you would only need a SPDT center-off switch instead of DPDT) and/or to make the fans come on with the A/C compressor. Of course then they are all low-current units on the relay coil side so the voltage drop doesn't matter.