CK5
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WL: 1990 K5 (California to Nebraska on 38" rubber. (WARNING: Lots of Pics))

MArtin, why is WL at the beginning of all your build threads? It doesn't stand for Wisconsin Lover, does it?? (just kidding :haha: )
 
I also assumed (always a mistake.....) that the bolts that came with my FUSH's were the same size at both ends of the shackle.

They were not.

So I am short two greasable shackle bolts for the right side. I'll have to call up ORD and order two more. While I am at it, I might as well get the hardware to bolt my FUSH's to the frame. I went to town today for hardware, and Bomgaars does not have 7/16" bolts in grade 8. They skip from 3/8" to 1/2". Handy.....

I bought some grade 5 7/16"x1.5" bolts just to assemble it, but I would prefer to have grade 8 with some pinch lock nuts.

I could get them at Kaytons in town, but I might as well make the order worth shipping.

Martin
 
I run 7.25 shackles with the same setup. I have DIYs shackle hanger, but I can't imagine its any different.

Yeah I run the pinch bolts on all my 52 swap brackets and the spring hangers.

You could sell those ORD shackles for top dollar on FB :rolleyes:
 
Here are how mine sat when I first installed them. They have sagged some so the angle is a little steeper now, but works great.

 
On ord's Web page, it says it's shackles are the same length as the 89-91 factory shackles which are either 1/4" or 1/2" longer than the rest. And they also have bigger bolts on the leaf spring side. And possibly the fush side, but I can't remember for certain. I just remember it was a bitch when I put 73-88 lift Springs in the front of my 90 cause then the hole in the shackle was a different size than the hole in the leaf spring bushing sleeve.
 
When I had 52's in the front of my blazer and the shackle mount moved forward I started out with 7.25" shackles. That increased my caster angle which gave me deathwobble. So I switched to some 6" (I think) shackles, but the spring end would hit the frame where yours is hitting when flexed or just hitting bums in the road. I also put on DIY4X's front spring mount and moved the spring all the way forward and still had the same problem. Eventually I just swapped back in my lift springs and 4" shackles (stock length) with the springs all the way forward on Kurt's mount to keep my axle moved forward.
 
I added some small (I think 4 degree) shims under my front springs to correct the caster. I don't drive mine on the street, but I was having binding issues at the pinion joint when the pass side would flex way down.
 
Well ORD didn't have different length shackles on their site, so I called DIY4X and ordered both a 6" and a 7.25" shackle. Ordered two greasable bolts and the hardware to bolt up the FUSH's.

Martin
 
When I had 52's in the front of my blazer and the shackle mount moved forward I started out with 7.25" shackles. That increased my caster angle which gave me deathwobble. So I switched to some 6" (I think) shackles, but the spring end would hit the frame where yours is hitting when flexed or just hitting bums in the road. I also put on DIY4X's front spring mount and moved the spring all the way forward and still had the same problem. Eventually I just swapped back in my lift springs and 4" shackles (stock length) with the springs all the way forward on Kurt's mount to keep my axle moved forward.

I did 6" shackles for the same reason. I didn't have trouble with the springs hitting the frame. There are variables due to where the new FUSH actually ends up.

I like to make the shackles just long enough to clear the frame so as not to affect the caster angle.
 
I like to make the shackles just long enough to clear the frame so as not to affect the caster angle.

That's why I ordered both the 6" and the 7.25" shackles. Figured I would see what works. Have you shimmed yours at all?

Martin
 
I haven't run degree shims in either truck. In the K5 I made new font hangers integrated with the body mount brackets similar to how the DIY4x 52's work. I made those hangers so that they dropped the front of the springs about 1.5" IIRC. Whatever the number was, the idea was to keep the caster angle correct.

I had to do the same thing in the crew cab but that was because of the shape of the 2wd frame in the area where the FUSH goes.
 
Yeah, so that doesn't give me much confidence.

If I don't like the way it works out, I can move the FUSH's back to their stock location.

Martin
 
I forgot to post this picture.



The center pin on the zero rate is stuck in the Dana 60. I had to take the center pin loose from the spring pack. and pull the spring pack off. A real pain in the ass. Especially with the crossover steering drag link right over the top of it. I'll have to fight that loose to get it all back together.

Martin
 
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