y5mgisi
1 ton status
I have a clear filter. I'll see if I can get a video for you shortly.
CK5
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Won't start after a winter's worth or repairs: Eye candy while I wait for parts
- Thread starter MassMan
- Start date
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, using a dummy return line into a bucket seems to allow the air that is in the filter to be released somehow. not sure how it all works, but there's definitely a problem with the return line.
i pulled the tank after trying to get the lines off it while on the truck. the sending unit looks brand new inside the tank, and nothing is clogging the sender's return hole. there's definitely something clogging or pinching the return line somewhere. gotta get everything covered before the thunderstorms come in tonight. i'll run some air through the line tomorrow.
i pulled the tank after trying to get the lines off it while on the truck. the sending unit looks brand new inside the tank, and nothing is clogging the sender's return hole. there's definitely something clogging or pinching the return line somewhere. gotta get everything covered before the thunderstorms come in tonight. i'll run some air through the line tomorrow.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Hey man, ended up being busy all day! I will get a video for you tomorrow for sure of the way mine works.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, no need for the video. I dropped the tank and ran compressed air through the lines. the return line was plugged up, but it cleared quickly.
after getting it back together today, it started up and, within 30 seconds, slowed and died. There's plenty of gas in the filter now, and that squeal is gone at idle (a new, worse once starts when i put my foot on the gas). Once it died, it refused to start again. It cranks and cranks but nothing. So much for getting it running before memorial day.
after getting it back together today, it started up and, within 30 seconds, slowed and died. There's plenty of gas in the filter now, and that squeal is gone at idle (a new, worse once starts when i put my foot on the gas). Once it died, it refused to start again. It cranks and cranks but nothing. So much for getting it running before memorial day.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Dangit im an ass! Anyway, i loaned my truck out to a buddy. But my filter is FULL at all times. Like plumb full all the way no air bubble, FULL! Not saying thats right but my truck runs good.
When it gets to "not starting" again you need to check for spark. Make sure it's getting good spark. As long as it's getting good spark then you can assume the problem will be with fuel delivery.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and ask, you do know how carbs work, their function and how to make them run on cold start up? I have to ask because I deal with people every day that know nothing except how to get in a car, turn the key, and the car does the rest. All they've ever known was fuel injection. Again, just asking.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and ask, you do know how carbs work, their function and how to make them run on cold start up? I have to ask because I deal with people every day that know nothing except how to get in a car, turn the key, and the car does the rest. All they've ever known was fuel injection. Again, just asking.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, you're mostly correct. before i bought this truck i had never seen a carb. i understand the principles behind them, and how most of the parts work, but i've never worked on one.
Of course, before this truck the most i had ever done was an oil change. first thing i do with my new project is to tear the engine down to the block. no fear. god only knows how i managed to get this far with only a repair manual, a do-it-yourself book, and the help of this forum.
anyway, i'll try to get a look at it tomorrow. with a brand new distributor/wires/plugs setup it's doubtful that something's broken. especially if it started and ran fine for a while. any hints on checking the operation of the carb?
Of course, before this truck the most i had ever done was an oil change. first thing i do with my new project is to tear the engine down to the block. no fear. god only knows how i managed to get this far with only a repair manual, a do-it-yourself book, and the help of this forum.
anyway, i'll try to get a look at it tomorrow. with a brand new distributor/wires/plugs setup it's doubtful that something's broken. especially if it started and ran fine for a while. any hints on checking the operation of the carb?
Sounds like it could be gummed up a bit from sitting. If the choke isn't set properly it will idle poorly/stumble/stall on cold start up. You may need to use your foot to keep it running on cold start up.
As far as checking the operation, there is no real way to describe while sitting here typing. Alot of it has to do with how the engine runs, performs, idles, revs, pulls under load, etc... It comes from experience.
Are you anywhere near me?
As far as checking the operation, there is no real way to describe while sitting here typing. Alot of it has to do with how the engine runs, performs, idles, revs, pulls under load, etc... It comes from experience.
Are you anywhere near me?
MassMan
1/2 ton status
You're in Carver? I'm way out west in Leverett. Doesn't seem feasible.
anyway, i pulled the carb today, absolutely soaked it in carb cleaner, and even got some to spray when i operated the throttle. After reading some more about carb issues, it sounds like my choke might be the problem. i'm going to check if i'm getting 12+ volts to it when "on", and if that will close up the choke properly. Might be a cheap fix. Honestly, i have no idea how the choke should be set on this thing, as it was sitting in the glove box when i got the truck. it ran fine when i put it back on, so i never worried about it.
maybe i'll have some time this weekend to play with it. I just started a 40hr/week internship on top of my part time job, so free time is scarce at the moment.
anyway, i pulled the carb today, absolutely soaked it in carb cleaner, and even got some to spray when i operated the throttle. After reading some more about carb issues, it sounds like my choke might be the problem. i'm going to check if i'm getting 12+ volts to it when "on", and if that will close up the choke properly. Might be a cheap fix. Honestly, i have no idea how the choke should be set on this thing, as it was sitting in the glove box when i got the truck. it ran fine when i put it back on, so i never worried about it.
maybe i'll have some time this weekend to play with it. I just started a 40hr/week internship on top of my part time job, so free time is scarce at the moment.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
by the way, it's a Holey 80457s, model 4160.
Ok, may be about to steer you wrong, but I don't think so. If the choke wire is a single wire hooked to a black cap, then its not the reason it won't start.
When the engine is cold, and you press the accelerator down, the choke should close and stay closed. Plus the accelerator should stay partially open. This is called fast idle.
All that is done by a bi-metal spring in the black cap.
When the engine cranks voltage is sent to the choke wire, which heats up the spring and makes the choke open sooner.
So the engine should start just fine with no wire on the choke, but will run real rich and take longer to release the choke.
If that cap is held on by a bracket with a screw or screws, you can adjust it.
With the engine cold, loosen the screw, press the throttle down about halfway and hold it there.
Turn the cap until the choke just closes and tighten it down.
When the engine is cold, and you press the accelerator down, the choke should close and stay closed. Plus the accelerator should stay partially open. This is called fast idle.
All that is done by a bi-metal spring in the black cap.
When the engine cranks voltage is sent to the choke wire, which heats up the spring and makes the choke open sooner.
So the engine should start just fine with no wire on the choke, but will run real rich and take longer to release the choke.
If that cap is held on by a bracket with a screw or screws, you can adjust it.
With the engine cold, loosen the screw, press the throttle down about halfway and hold it there.
Turn the cap until the choke just closes and tighten it down.
That's going to be your main problem right there. Holleys are no fun for the carb beginner. I'll leave it at that.
Go get yourself an Edelbrock 600ish CFM with an electric choke, bolt it on and go. Simple, cheap, readily available, and user friendly.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
i wish i had the cash, but i'm stuck with what i've got.
i've set the carb back on the intake and wired the choke back up. i have the key set to "on" and i'm waiting to see what happens.
is it normal for the "fast idle speed screw" behind the choke to hit the intake when the throttle is opened fully? with the carb unbolted, i can lift it a good half an inch off the intake with the gas pedal.
i've set the carb back on the intake and wired the choke back up. i have the key set to "on" and i'm waiting to see what happens.
is it normal for the "fast idle speed screw" behind the choke to hit the intake when the throttle is opened fully? with the carb unbolted, i can lift it a good half an inch off the intake with the gas pedal.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, there's an oil pressure sensor keeping the choke from getting power. gonna hotwire it after dinner.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, the choke opens fine. gonna try to run it again now that it's clean. so the choke should be completely closed at startup?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Thats kind of a loaded question, but basically, yes. If its not closed its not critical, it just wont start as easy.
84 k5 blazer
1/2 ton status
The oil pressure will not let power go to the choke unless it detects pressure (motor running), keeps from burning the choke, strain on battery. I would not bypass it.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
i just hotwired it to check to see if the choke would open. nothing was permanent.
MassMan
1/2 ton status
well, cleaning the carb worked. she fired right up. the timing's at 10*, the vacuum's at 20"hg, and it idles at around 900rpm. high, i know. i decided to tool around a bit. i had to put my foot down to roll the tires at all. once i got to turning around i was unsure about of i was in reverse or neutral until i revved the engine to see if it rolled (no gates or springiness or indicator on the column shift). once i revved it a bit, determined i wasn't in reverse, i let it drop to idle to shift, and at that point the engine quickly died like it was out of gas. now it won't start, not even a single fire, there's plenty of gas, and there's good spark. i'm thinking the engine's flooded, so i'm letting it sit. any way to check?
also, i suspect the e-brake's jammed, thus causing the difficulties getting it moving. any way to disconnect it at the brakes without taking off the wheels? it parked in the woods behind my neighbor's house at the moment, so jacking it and pulling the wheels isn't the preferred method.
also, i suspect the e-brake's jammed, thus causing the difficulties getting it moving. any way to disconnect it at the brakes without taking off the wheels? it parked in the woods behind my neighbor's house at the moment, so jacking it and pulling the wheels isn't the preferred method.
