CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Working on a 71 Jimmy....

Stripped it down...(want tube doors and cage etc eventually)

Put a 6" suspension and 3" body lift under it.

Threw a 14bff in the rear and a D60 front.

IMG_0253_1.jpg

38 yr old mounts.jpg

1ton 14bolt.jpg

Rear with springs.jpg

need bigger tires.jpg
 
This is where she is currently at in build form. Has 36's on it for rollers. Think I have clearance for 38's here soon

Working on bumpers now and the details on the axle swap (brakes, drivelines etc)

My buddy and son sitting in rig wishing they could take it for a test spin.

Just Rattle canned it Sruce over black so I can rock rash it. Rockers need replaced so didnt paint those yet

IMG_0575_2.jpg

IMG_0574_3.jpg

IMG_0572_2.jpg

IMG_0571_1.jpg
 
Looks like it is going to be a fun hunting rig for the boy and you. I can't wait to start of mine again.
 
Bump (ers)

Thanks everyone. She moved under her own power this weekend for the first time in a while, with only a front driveshaft installed. toured the block 4 or 5 times to test the brakes.

More projects. Back almost done, front saved till after warm up.
Will have 4 huge recovery points as well

Bumper3.JPG

Bumper1.JPG
 
Bumpers are just finished and gonna look Shaaaweeet when they are attached and rhino-lined on the Jimmy.

The front is strate in the middle section and angles to match the grill on each side. The little stinger is angled forward to match the grill as well. Its all 3"

The rear is just strate. Will post pics when I get them mounted, painted and with the recovery points.

What do you guys think?

Bumpers front.JPG

Bumpers side.JPG
 
Last edited:
Weekend weldin'

Weekend work.

Was in the mood to weld, so I went after the bumpers

Wire wheeled them down, primered, bed-liner'd them and mounted the front back. Then started on some Nerf bars which are in progress.

Both Bumpers will receive more bracing, skid plating, Roller fairlead, license plate etc.

Need to get some clevis anchor points so I can mount my D-rings, but it will come....

Just layed the Bikini on top to take some measurements for the snaps.

090628_150758.jpg

090628_151044.jpg

090628_150834.jpg

090628_150931.jpg
 
Little help?

Guys,

I switched over to a 2wd steering box so i can run crossover.

I have a 3" body lift and 6" susp lift.

Those of you that have done a crossover may know the input shaft on the steering box takes a different joint to connect with the steering column.

Does anyone remember the part number and where they got it?

Thanks-RMK
 
The ragjoint should be the same on 2wd and 4wd boxes of the same year. It sounds like you got a different year.

I don't know the part number but I know new rag joints are crazy expensive. You can use an xj shaft for way less money and much tighter steering if you can fab the connection a little. You can also get a custom borgeson shaft to do the same thing.
 
Really...Ok thanks. I had heard they were different sizes b/w 2 or 4wd boxs, but I never tried to mount the old rag joint because it had exploded anyways.

I used a 71 Jimmy 2wd box in place of a 71 Jimmy 4wd box. At least as far as the parts computer at Napa was concerned.

I will grab one from Borgeson or Flaming River. Thanks for the advice!
 
That's weird because my 71 box used the same rag joint ends. It sounds like napa goofed up or your old box was swapped for a new style.

the ujoint style is way better anyway just make sure not to reference the wrong ends when you order them.
 
Thanks! I have a borgeson shaft in the works.

The 4wd box was a 36 spline 13/16", the 2wd box is the same except it does have a flat side which removes like 6 spline and makes it a 30.

-----------------------

Have a question / concern for you pros about the passenger side spring perch / studs.

I hope Burt4x4 doesnt mind me using his picture for comparison to mine. He has a front 60 in his K5 as well (first pic)

I had to use like 6 washers in mockup because the thread ended that much higher on the stud than where I needed to go to get tight on the spring plate.

Also it is difficult to get the plate square when there is a gap b/w the spring perch and where the studs are.

hard to explain but look at these 2 pics. It seems to be working fine the way ive installed it, but I want it to be correct (safe)

I think I have some sort of extra long studs in mine from someone before me who had a really thick spring pack or shims?

100_0901.jpg

IMG_0580_4.jpg
 
I just used GR-8 bolts in those two spots instead of studs and bought the longest bolt that would fit without bottoming out.

:usaflag:
 
Good idea I hadn't thought of that.

How do you get the stock studs out?

maybe a silly question, but doesnt look easy when there is no place to turn from with a flat side.
 
I used bolts also.

You can try double nutting them to remove the old studs. I think they have stud removal tools as well.

You could also run a die down the studs and cut them deeper (assuming the studs aren't hardened, but they may be).
 
Top Bottom