Pricing... Wraptor anti wrap bar, This is all the required parts to put it on your "BACKBONE" truss system. The mounting tabs. Upper and lower bars with bushings welded on the diff end, Wristed shackle, Completley welded crossmember, ready for installation. All the necessary greasable poly's, sleeve's, 9/16" grade 8 hardware, Bolts to attach the crossmember to your frame. All you need to do is cut the upper and lower bars to length and weld them together, mount the crossmember and paint. $275.00 Now, if you are purchasing this with the Backbone I will of course weld the tabs to the Backbone for you. I will be getting something done with the lower shock mounts attached to the truss system in the next day or so. I have a plan, just need the time. I will also be getting a picture of the Wraptor kit contents as soon as we can pull it back off the truck. Then you will be able to see all of the components together. I will also be adding a photo in the next few minutes to show where the grease fitting is positioned on the wristed shackle. EDIT FINISHED! OK, couple things to note right off. First thing. Some small changes were made in the "Backbone" truss system to aid in the design of the anti wrap system. First of all we split the diff ring from the truss tube and made it a seperate bolt on piece. This was done mainly to make things simpler to assemble while allowing some preload in the axle housing. Secondly, the pinion tie in was made wider to better center the anti wrap in the chassis and to make a little more space. The anti wrap bar, We talked about building this as a complete bolt on and finally came to the conclusion, considering pinion angle, lift, and wheel base there is no good way to build it "Universal" and have it work well for everyone without building in complex and expensive adjustments and still maintain the level of strength and durability found in our end product. So, that being said there are a couple of DIY items involved here. Nothing terribly difficult though. First of which is cutting the upper bar to the length required by the end user and welding it to the wrist shaft. Second would be to then cut the angle on the lower bar and weld it to the upper tube. Now on to some photos, So, if you have any questions or comments feel free to post up and I'll explain whatever I can. We did some twisting on it today and I can tell you this, It's gona work Sweet! The wristed mount does its job and does it well. Everything swings smoot and on this chassis we used a 6" shackle and have plenty of room. The crossmember itself is bolted in factory holes although I couldn't say for sure if they will be there on every fullsize GM. This is a shortbox chassis. I think they are there on long box but probably not blazers so some drilling may also be required and this is not to say that the holes have to be used. It can be placed where it will work the best for your setup. There is 6 holes per frame rail. I'm sure there are more details that you guys would like to know about so ask away.