What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

WTF? did the center section spin on the axle tubes? ***PICS***

Could have sworn I read that last time this came up, Misinformation I Guess.

thanks for the correction.

You're exactly right about the tube being small end of spec and the center being high end. Happens a lot with auto stuff, I remember when I worked ate the chroming plant and small change shut down a Buick line because the rim were jambing on the hubs because of a small variance and too many trips thru the line
 
i did this in a 68 camaro before, just put slicks on it and twisted the center, to fix it i cut off the spring perches and welded new ones on. also welded around the tube to the center housing with a arc rod for cast iron. to my knowledge that rear end is still like that and i got rid of the car 14 years ago.
 
blazin_blazer said:
time to retube with .250 wall :-)
Click to expand...

.250" wall is definitely thinner than the axle it would be replacing, not to mention how expensive that tubing is.

I'm reasonably certain that the stock axle tubes are .500" thick.

Again, a new rear axle is likely the best plan of action.
 
wow 1/2'' wall tube..stock

i read about people using 1/4'' wall tube on axels for rocks, thought it was thinner and it was upgrade.
 
Well, I realize that my last reply was a little hasty:

AFAIK all front axles on K-series trucks are .500" thick. There are varying tube diamaters (dana 44's are generally 2.875" while most 10 bolts are 3" IIRC).

Rear axles are a different. I'm unsure of 10/12 bolt tube thicknesses but most 14 bolt tubes are .500" near the pumpkin and taper to 3/8" near the spindles.

"Tube strength" has to do with both diameter and thickness. Diameter has a much greater effect for bending strength (in bending equations diameter is raised to the 4th power, thickness is only to the 1st IIRC) but if the tube dents it will bend very easily. Basically you need a tube thick enough that it won't dent and with a large enough diameter that it won't easily bend. Chassis tube design is the same way.

Its all a compromise. Bigger diameter means better bending strength but its more expensive, heavier, and will dent more easily (think of it like leverage).



All of this is off topic I realize, but its info I don't think I've seen here before and is somewhat relevant to the question at hand.
 
time for this:
2186902_330_full.jpg
 
Weld those tube clamps to the axletubes and you're probably right....

A bolt-on clamp isn't going to add much value in preventing this particular issue, though.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm getting ready to go outside and see if i can twist it back down into position. I'm gonna try to pull it up on a car hauler and come-a-long it down and go from there. If its still tight, I'm thinking about building a brace to hold it all in place until i swap to 3/4 ton in a few months.:o
 
Well, a chain around the pinion and an oak tree got my carrier twisted back into place. Its still a tight fit, it took several strong tugs to get it back. It twisted too far in the other dirrection on the last tug, so i used a floor jack under the pinion. all that did was jack the truck off the ground, but i jumped on the trailer hitch and the extra weight/leverage got her into the correct position.

Two for the four welds already popped out on their own. I'm gonna try an air hammer to remove the other two welds and find someone to weld them back up. Half way home.:crazy:
 
If it moved that easy the press fit is bad.
Remove the existing plugs and weld it up.
I am going to guess that after driving it a while you will get oil oozing out of the tube to housing interface.

You will probably want a new housing but it sounds like you are planning that anyway so I would just use it and be careful.
 
It happened to me. I was wheeling when it happened and the front joint popped too along with the rear diff housing spinning. I was hammering on it enough to pin it sraight up at the bed of the truck. totally left me stranded and had to be towed out.

All i can say is 14bff. it bolts right in. I would not fix a 10b rear axle. it is like asking for trouble in the future.
 
If your gonna run the rearend you have then get the old plug welds out and reweld them. Then completely weld the tubes to the housing. This will try and seal the diff up as best possible.

Harley
 
miniwally said:
If it moved that easy the press fit is bad.
Click to expand...
It didn't really move that easy I had a chain wrapped around the pinion and hooked to a tree. I took about 6 good snatches with the ass end of the truck jumping up in the air to get it back in position. When i had to move it back a little the other way, i had the entire rear of the truck supported by a floor jack under the pinion, and i still had to jump on the hitch before it would move.

Anybody have any idea what rod would be the best for welding the axle tubes to the center section?
 
I beleive they usually use rods with high nickel content but I am not sure there actual numbers or name.

Harley
 
Greg72 said:
Weld those tube clamps to the axletubes and you're probably right....

A bolt-on clamp isn't going to add much value in preventing this particular issue, though.
Click to expand...


You should install a set of these before making this kind of assumption.
 
miniwally said:
The plug welds are not there to "weld" the tubes to the housing.

They are there to act as pins to keep the housing from rotating.

It is a common failure, it can be a real pain to get the pinion to rotate back to the correct location.
You are probably better off to get a new housing and start over.
I have seen this happen to two 14 bolts under buggies in the last year. Both were welded back up and are so far so good.
Click to expand...

It happened to one side of my 14blt @ BB06 - the Watsons welded it up :bow: after I power braked in reverse to re-align it, still in perfect condition. :bow::bow:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom