CK5
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WTF? did the center section spin on the axle tubes? ***PICS***

Cool!

Send one along, I'll be happy to give it a thorough evaluation.... :D :deal:




:usaflag:


Some how I knew that woud be next!:haha:


As to what rod would be best, I've stuck my foot in my mouth once here not so long ago as to what type of material the center chunk is actually made of. Gray Iron or ductile or whatever, It don't weld too bad with regular wire though. Trustyk5 could probably suggest the best rod for you. Stick welding is not my bag.
 
You should of taken video of the rear end strapped to a tree to turn the pinion back down. That would of been great.

I would use a 7018 rod at the least, and of course pre heating to the cast and axle tubes. Take the carrier out too.

PaulC
 
pre heating to the cast and axle tubes.

PaulC


Actually preheating in this situation might cause a problem. If there is any press fit left, you might end up removing that press fit relation with the heat applied.
 
ask for nickel rods, I wonder if you could braze it? That is the BEST for cast, and strong too, might be a bit much to heat up though.
 
7018=not high nickle rod
i would use a p5/6010 b4 i used a 7018
best= http://www.brazing.com/Pdf/NickelAlloy/NR55&99_Comparison.pdf
either 1 altho 99 recomends preheat ... 55 preheat not nessary
could weld it with Inconel, but it requires preheat...ive welded Inconel w/o preheat and when chipping slag off the bead came off also all nice and pretty(hold it in ur hand) was funny, had no penetration w/o preheat and as was stated preheating the diff may worsen the press fit as it expands...tube doesn't need preheat just the pig!

another good link
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/castironpreheat.asp
 
7018=not high nickle rod
i would use a p5/6010 b4 i used a 7018
best= http://www.brazing.com/Pdf/NickelAlloy/NR55&99_Comparison.pdf
either 1 altho 99 recomends preheat ... 55 preheat not nessary
could weld it with Inconel, but it requires preheat...ive welded Inconel w/o preheat and when chipping slag off the bead came off also all nice and pretty(hold it in ur hand) was funny, had no penetration w/o preheat and as was stated preheating the diff may worsen the press fit as it expands...tube doesn't need preheat just the pig!

another good link
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/castironpreheat.asp
.


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This is from that Lincoln link above.

Welding Techniques without Preheat

The size of the casting, or other circumstances, may require that the repair be made without preheat. When this is the case, the part needs to be kept cool, but not cold.
Raising the casting temperature to 100 degrees F is helpful. If the part is on an engine, it may be possible to run it for a few minutes to obtain this temperature. Never heat the casting so hot that you cannot place your bare hand on it.
Make short, approximately 1” long welds. Peening after welding is important with this technique. Allow the weld and the casting to cool. Do not accelerate the rate of cooling with water or compressed air. It may be possible to weld in another area of the casting while the previous weld cools. All craters should be filled. Whenever possible, the beads should be deposited in the same direction, and it is preferred that the ends of parallel beads not line up with each other.



I bought Radnor Cast 55 rods. Will I be OK using the above method without preheating?



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lincoln knows their stuff!

and yea since u got the 55 rod, i would follow lincolns reccomend!

also from lincolns site:
once you select a method, stick with it. Keep it hot, or keep it cool, but don't change horses in the middle of the stream!

so don't weld long enuff to heat b4 you let it cool again....slo cools is best..wrap with welding blanket or sandbag to slo cooling...once cooled weld a little more then allow 2 cool again as slo as possible...repeat until thru
 
yeah he is right SLOW cooling.

as described to me a the problem with welding cast, is the cooling, the castings cooled for days, and your going to heat on section a lot and cool it superfast. Not good, a lot of welds to cast hold fine, but the cast snaps off right next to it.
 
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