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Yellow Top or Red?????

fireplug said:
Ryoken,

LOL I want to respond with your very same words! LMAO :haha:

I think we are debating semantics now. And in general I agree with everything you said. And it sounds like we are both currently on track and in agreement. Whether we're correct or not is another thing! lol

There IS a difference between reserve capacity and deep cycling ability though. And it didn't sound like you were acknowledging that to me. In fact I quoted the one time that you said what I thought was the opposite hence my frustration. :D

Back in the day, before I knew about deep cycle batteries I'd pay through the teeth for LARGE reserve, or what in an earlier post I called "typical" or starting batteries. But these were NOT deep cycle, nor did they possess the deep cycles ability to bounce back for a deep discharge nearly as well. So yes I could run my stereo at the camp site for a long time, but doing so every weekend would kill the battery far sooner than it's normal life cycle. Had I known then what I do now I could've saved a bundle of moola. Oh well that's life.

For rigs that are often draining their batteries with whatever accessories, from a longevity or financial or trail worthiness aspect the solution is deep cycle batteries NOT high reserve batteries. Unless you can get a really high reserve deep cycle.

What I'd REALLY like to know, is what batteries out there are the REAL deal as far as deep cycling ability goes. Construction is the answer, but short of cutting a battery open, how do you know. I find the company propaganda is rather elusive no matter who it is.

I'd bet the Armed Forces use some pretty tech stuff, anyone have any incite?

How about the diesels? Has anyone determined whether their batteries are isolated from the factory and if so, how? :confused:

Well, couple of things...

I'll start with the somewhat point of contention we seem to be having... And say again, high reserve capacity is inherent in deep cycles and they're style of cells.. never in cranking batteries... Thats a fact... The more reserve a battery has, the closer the cell construction is to a solid style deep cycle...

So, in other words, if you where buying "high reserve batteries", in actuality, you where buying something much closer to a deep cycle than you may think, tho they may have been cheating in some other areas of cell construction, leading to poor deep cycling..

And like I said, standard starting batteries these days absolutely suck on reserve capacity.. Ya know why? marketing and advertising... The battery companies have consumers sooooooo brainwashed with CCA it's rediculous.. Noone pays attention to reserve capacity... Joe Schmoe just sees, "OOOOO, 1100 CCA, WOW!!!!!" but pays no attention to that pitiful 50 minute reserve...

So not only do you get 4 to 5 times the length of time of usable juice, but they can be discharged past that point and still come back...

As for highend batteries in lead-acid, Surrette... Alot of the highend boats run em.. Rolls-Surrette in U.S apps.. They are THE premium battery builder, by far no contest..

As for dual factory setups, anything from the 80's is strictly in parellel, nothing fancy.... I have my views on this subject too...


Here's some interesting tidbits I had saved from various faq's,

Rolls, Surrette and Lifeline use thicker lead grids (the plate's skeletal structure) to support additional positive plate oxides which are compressed into a denser form in order to add battery reactive material for greater Reserve Capacity and Cycling Performance. In addition, these plates are separated by indestructible separators. These mats hold the active oxides tightly in place during the cubical plate expansion which occurs during deep discharging, instead of allowing the oxides to shed off and precipitate to the bottom of the battery. Construction materials such as those raise the Reserve Capacity of a battery and increase the battery's Cycle Life.

and


Unfortunately, the term Deep Cycle has been overused by the battery industry as a sales tool to imply a heavy duty product. This has led to confusion and difficulty in battery selection. One must understand that any battery may be termed deep cycle as all batteries may be fully discharged and charged. However, a true deep cycle battery, such as Rolls or Lifeline, is capable of thousands of these hard cycles during its life without losing its capacity. Comparatively, many advertised deep cycle batteries composed of thin plates, excessively porous separators, and low density plate oxides will suffer permanent capacity loss after a few dozen cycles and will shortly sulfate or shed plate material and fail. Batteries without substantial materials designed for true deep-cycling will lose more than half of their capacity after only a few cycles. A 200 Amp-hour battery will shortly become a 100 Amp-hour battery for the remainder of its shortened service life. What initially may seem to be an inexpensive battery to purchase, now costs twice as much per Amp-hour. True Deep cycle batteries will perform well as cranking batteries, however, cranking batteries will not survive deep cycle use.

Deep cycle batteries can be used in any application and exhibit a long service life, while cranking batteries are limited to starting applications only. Cranking batteries exhibit poor service life in cycling applications.
 
ryoken said:
Well, couple of things...

I'll start with the somewhat point of contention we seem to be having... you where buying something much closer to a deep cycle than you may think, tho they may have been cheating in some other areas of cell construction, leading to poor deep cycling..

As I said, semantics. In all this discussion I'm refering to a PURE starting battery vs a PURE deep cycle. The advantage of a deep cycle to me, and I'll be so bold to say most of the membership is that of a PURE deep cycle as outlined in my posts and as you provided below...

ryoken said:
all batteries may be fully discharged and charged. However, a true deep cycle battery... is capable of thousands of these hard cycles during its life without losing its capacity. Batteries without substantial materials designed for true deep-cycling will lose more than half of their capacity after only a few cycles ... True Deep cycle batteries will perform well as cranking batteries, however, cranking batteries will not survive deep cycle use...

So enough of that. I'm worn out. And beginning to think you're right and I might like arguing after all! :D

So if the diesels are simply in parallel then they are not suited to use by simply putting a couple of yellow tops (or better yet, two PURE deep cycling batteries) and winching away. As both batteries will suffer draw to the point of drain.

I would suggest off the top of my head that the best solution for a diesel application, where someone wants a dual battery system ensuring that they can winch away and still have a reliable starting battery would be something like the solenoid or Wrangler solution.

And because you should always use batteries of the same size et. al. then you would use two PURE deep cycle or dual purpose such as the yellow tops.

That allows you to use the power of both batteries to start the truck, and then switch to a single (of choice) for winching. That ensures long battery life and ensures that you will get off the trail should you drain the winch battery completely.

Sound right?
 
pretty much..

And, your getting me into a whole nother subject, as to parelleling, system flexibilty, isolator tech, etc... I'm sure you've seen some of my other diatribes on those subjects... I've looked at all the dual system possibilties, and am confident in mine over any isolator tech...

I'll just reitterate this... True Deep cycle batteries will perform well as cranking batteries, however, cranking batteries will not survive deep cycle use.

In other words, no cranking battery is close to the performance of a true deep cycle.. There is NO advantage in initial cranking with a starting battery over a real deep cycle.... 2 good deep cycles are always a better choice.. for a winching diesel too...

And the forum may not realize it, and maybe I'm not winning you over, but imo, reserve capacity is FAR more important than the deep cycle capabilty.. reason being, THATS what your winching on, your reserve juice, not on it going dead quick and being able to fully charge. Your assured that cycle life by it being a real deep cycle...

.. If you saw what goes on in boats, you'd see where I'm coming from.. Marine apps are designed for SERIOUS cranking... You can't imagine what it's like firing up a huge Detroit in 35 degree weather after it's been sitting 4 months, a true test of cranking ability..

Just so you know, I'm not trying to be bullheaded or argumentitive, I just like debate, brings info out.. :D
 
ryoken said:
Just so you know, I'm not trying to be bullheaded or argumentitive, I just like debate, brings info out.. :D

It's all good! Even if you're wrong :haha:

Here's one for the crowds...when your truck is running and you are winching, what is the most important source of power draw, the alternator or the battery?
 
fireplug said:
It's all good! Even if you're wrong :haha:

We'll take a poll! :haha:

Fireplug is right -

Ryoken is right -

I'm reading this naked -

Eh, maybe not.... :haha:
 
problem exists when

fireplug said:
Again, if it's really cold, CCA could be the cause. Is he starting the truck with the fan blowing and radio on? Have the batteries been incorrectly charged in the past? Is there a open circuit somewhere? Is his charging system up to par?

EDIT - while I'm guilty of doing the very same thing, I think it's kinda nuts to buy hundreds of bucks worth of 'tech' battery and then not bothering to check the 30 year old wiring, alternator, and grounds! I'll get around to that sometime lol.

I'd guess that most of the poor quality Optima stories we've heard are based on poor charging, or even use.


OK here is the reason why 2 yellow top dont handle the cold in alaska im talking 0 to -20 ,, i store the truck outside, it was driven on short 1 - 5 mile trips.. once or twice a day.. well i have a 140 amp alt.. that just isnt sufficent time of charging.. when my max speed in them miles is 30-45mph also. so after 2 weeks of pretty muuch just STARTING they need a charge again.. remember folks your alternators dont put out a whole hell of allot at idle speed.. and combine that with start frive 1 oe 2 miles and shut off with lights on(its dark here most the winter) and a dual electric fans once it gets to temp.. and 0 though -20 F and you can have dual optimas YELLOW top deads in no time.. well 2 weeks was my average.. now i hear the red top ones take a low level amp charge easier.. but who knows. i know they are awesome when you are at a 50 - 70 deg f and winching or have 1000 watts of lights going... and thats what i bought them for.. i will get a red top for winter. and run my yellow as a aux in the winter.. and keep one yellow int he house

Ray

Ray
 
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