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You are absolutely, positively NOT going to believe this! (But please read)

B

Bowtied

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For those of you who have been following my overheating saga, I have yet, more bad news.
Tonight after reading through the responses to my original post I started getting anxious. I figured I'd go ahead and try replacing the radiator so I jumped in the car and was off to my second home (Autozone).
They had one so I flew home and swaped it in. When I cranked it up, it still got hot!!!(235).
So now it has a new cap, rad, t-stat(checked good on stove), hoses, water pump, and I triple checked to make sure it is indicating the proper temp on the gauge. I am definately starting to get worried! What the heck is up with this thing?
I guess I'll find out in the morning when I take it in for acid flush. It's gotta have something jammed up in the block...who am I trying to kid...I have'nt a friggin clue!
If you can shed any light in my situation, PLEASE do, cause I'm darn near stumped now!

Thanks again,
Andy
 
I don't know what to tell you, but you've got me by the nut sack!!
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<font color=blue>Daddy told me while learning to pee......"if you shake it more than twice, then you are playing with it!!!"</font color=blue>
 
Heres a long shot, If your timing is not on it will make your engine hotter. just a thought.

If you cant go over it...GO THROUGH IT !!! <a target="_blank" href=http://www.CaliforniaK5Krawlers.com>www.CaliforniaK5Krawlers.com</a>
75 Jimmy 11" lift with 40's
 
oh man...
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that really BITES!

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
what are you using to make sure the temp is true?? My factory temp guage was WAY off. Now I have a mechanical one. Just another thing.
Ben 87 Jimmy
<font color=blue>Rust=Bad</font color=blue>
[urlwww.bens87toy.alloffroad.com[/url]
 
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

If it over heats while sitting still fan clutch is bad.

<hr></blockquote>

man if you've gone through all this and that's the problem we are all going to have to put our foot in our mouth's and shut up!
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<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
 
Check two things more - clutch fan (if it is a clutch fan......lol) and if your timing is RETARDED (not advanced as you might think) it will force it to run hot. That was the problem with my father in laws new motor we put in his truck.............timing was off about 15 degrees retarded and got rather hot.

Let us know what it is/was.

<font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com>www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com</a>
 
Have you tried a mechanical guage yet? They really make a difference. I also use a 160 thermostat. My temp gets to 190 max, a/c and all in Tucson heat.

"My blazer may be slow, but it goes faster at higher speeds"
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
I haven't read the other posts due to time factors so someone may have said this already. It sounds like you have a head gasket problem. Try doing a coolant pressure test and then an engine compression test.


David

[image]http://www.extremeblazer.com/sideapproachL.jpg[/image]
 
I agree with Goldrush. It's time to do a compression test and a coolant pressure test. It's beginning to sound like a blown head gasket or cracked head. Is there water in the oil (milky looking) or unexplained loss of coolant? If these tests still don't turn up anything, replace the thermostat again with a 180 degree (the new one you installed could be defective), and make sure it's installed in the correct direction. Good Luck.

'89 K5 Silverado..."You can’t have a real adventure, unless the outcome is truly uncertain".
 
First of all, stop relying on a stock electric gauge. They're junk.

Get a good gauge.

Remove your thermostat entirely and see if it still overheats.

I'm with the clutch fan thing. If your fan is junk it's going to get hot.

But slow timing and lean fuel mixture could cause it too.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I agree with Gold Rush and Gandolf.
I must say that this exact thing happened to me and it was not a fun time.
I went and got the original 83 radiator pressure tested and there was nothing wrong with it.
I figured while its out spend the few bucks and get a replacement GM radiator ($180 aluminum
with plastic sides). Still not it. So I got the new water pump. Still not it. Got new thermostat. Still
not it.
Finally took it in to the shop. And it was a cracked head. The milky water was a dead give
away. $1800 later, Dang labor costs... They resurfaced the heads and welded the crack. At the
same time I also got the whole bottom end redone. That was 3 1/2 years ago and not one
problem. I also stepped up and used that Dex Cool (orangeish pink) antifreeze. Works like a
champ. Good Luck.

DANGIT it's not a bronco!
 
Dex Cool is terrible. I believe it was recalled by GM.

Besides, it won't do you any good anyway. Once the green stuff gets in your engine, you can never use the Dex Cool and get any benefit from it. It won't last any longer, and it tends to turn to sludge because it's oil based.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I saw a post the other day (this board?) where someone had installed a guy's intake gaskets backward so the front outlet holes from the heads were blocked, instead of the back ones. Has your intake been off recently?

Tim

70 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
87 Burb 4X4 350
01 GMC 2500HD 4X4 Duramax/Allison
 
Just for $hits and giggles, bypass your heater core. A plugged heater core (especially with the heavy duty cooling setup) can cause temps to rise (although I don't know if it would cause temps to rise that much). I saw a post yesterday that asked you to pull the two plugs on the bottom of the block (just above the oil pan, one on each side). I beleive they have a hex head. If you pull them no coolant (or slow drip of coolant) comes out, then your block is filled with trash and rust. It should come out steadier than a piss stream. Use a flare nut wrench and some penetrating lube on them, they will be a bi#ch to get out. I destroyed the two plugs and replaced them with petcocks (like at the bottom of a radiator), and now I drain the block and cooling system annually to help prevent build-up of scale. All I have to do is open the petcock on the radiator and the petcocks on the block, once its done draining, I fill it full of water and keep doing it till all the fluid coming from the petcocks is clear. I let it completely drain, and refill with 50/50 of distilled water and antifreeze. Hope this helps.
P.S. I've never had a cooling problem after doing this.

If you didn't build it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
 
Checking the timing is a good idea!

Also, if your carb is running too lean, it will also run hot.

No prohibiting allowed!!!!

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer/>http://www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer/</a>
 
Blazer1970 has a good suggestion. Has the intake been off recently? If the gaskets were installed backwards, then the rear block-off plates will block coolant flow through the thermostat. You can easily check for this by removing the t-stat housing and t-stat. Stick a screwdriver through the opening, pointing it towards the passenger side of the engine. If it hits an obstruction instead of going in a few inches, then you've found your problem. The only solution is to remove the intake and install new gaskets.

Been there, done that.
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Got in too much of a hurry to get a new engine installed and didn't pay close enough attention. Taking it back apart after it was installed really sucked...
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<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...
 
Can you verify that your pump is flowing and flowing in the correct direction?

Try putting the old pump back on just for a test or get another new pump....?

Serpentine belt? Verify that it is routed correctly.


Dave

Horn Broken... Watch For Finger.
91 K5 - in the process of 4" lift with D60/14FF plus LOTS of extras. ETF August 1.
 
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