should the bolt for the zero rate be grade 8?
CK5
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zero rate bolt
- Thread starter Yobtaf
- Start date
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Should be using just your standard center pin. Will a bolt head even fit in the hole on the perch?
OK maybe not to clear. the ord zero rate comes with the center pin that you cut down if using the offset hole and then a bolt to go through the zero rate and the spring pack. the bolt they sent is grade 5. just doesn't seem right.
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Ahh, so you used the zero rate to move the axle. Well, grade 5 should be fine, but I doubt it would hurt to run grade 8.
There has been debates on this board before about the Grade 8 vs. 5 spring center pin.
The end of the debates are that a 5 is what is standard in most if not all springs and or "kits" that you need to disassemble the spring pack to install. To the best of my knowledge there is not a Grade 8 center pin made.
Some feel that a Grade 8 helps to keep the axle in place. Some feel that the u bolts are what hold the axle in place and the centering pin is for lineup during assembly as well as holding the leafs together when out of the vehicle.
If you want Grade 8 you will need to use a bolt and trim the head down to fit.
I feel that the supplied centering pins are fine. They don't so anything but hold the pack together and locate the axle until the u bolts are tight.
The end of the debates are that a 5 is what is standard in most if not all springs and or "kits" that you need to disassemble the spring pack to install. To the best of my knowledge there is not a Grade 8 center pin made.
Some feel that a Grade 8 helps to keep the axle in place. Some feel that the u bolts are what hold the axle in place and the centering pin is for lineup during assembly as well as holding the leafs together when out of the vehicle.
If you want Grade 8 you will need to use a bolt and trim the head down to fit.
I feel that the supplied centering pins are fine. They don't so anything but hold the pack together and locate the axle until the u bolts are tight.
gotcha, thanks for the input, Ill stick with what I have 
Well if it was all new parts I agree, but just like other discussions about wether you can reuse the old Ubolts, some do even though you are not supposed to, and one of the problems with running old Ubolts is that clamping forces are not the same as a new Ubolt since it already stretched and released, so that allows the axle to move and contact the centering pin and even put a load on it.
That is why some after shearing pins go to grade 8.
I did, and all I had to do was to turn it on a grinder, I was able to make it the size of the hole, not smaller so it ended up a tight fit so no movement at all.
I have even seen some extreme rock crawlers that sheared a pin even though they used new Ubolts, I guess it's the nature of the beast, we build our rigs for things that were never meant to be so stock thinking doesn't necessarily apply.
Grade 5 bolt, not so good 
Broke?
Lots of people in the race industry like running grade 5 over a grade 8 because a grade 5 will bend giving you an indication there is a problem whereas a grade 8 will just break.
I myself like using grade 8 for EVERYTHING when i can. Also for use as a centering pin on a zero rate you can use an allen bolt as almost all allen bolts are grade 8.
I myself like using grade 8 for EVERYTHING when i can. Also for use as a centering pin on a zero rate you can use an allen bolt as almost all allen bolts are grade 8.
Dafey
1/2 ton status
Cant you ask them for a grade 8 maybe?Or they may make you pay for one...
I use grade 8 for EVERYTHING period. Cheap insurance. Grade 5 = lame.
Grade 5 bolt, not so good
You didn't try to pull the spring pack together with the bolt did you?
Use a C-clamp, or a couple of vice grips to pull it together, and then tighten the bolt. The bolt is WAY to small to be expected to pull the spring pack together.
Assembled spring pack.
Martin
There is absolutely no reason to need a grade 8 bolt for a spring pin.
Martin
Martin
When i did my zero rate, i brought up because i didn't want to have to drill out my springs for the center pin size included with the kit.
If you look up a local spring shop, they should stock any proper size centering pin you could want, then you just cut to fit. This was a way better option than grinding down the head on a grade 5 or 8 to fit the spring mounts. Good luck.
If you look up a local spring shop, they should stock any proper size centering pin you could want, then you just cut to fit. This was a way better option than grinding down the head on a grade 5 or 8 to fit the spring mounts. Good luck.
A grade 5 will bend farther at a lower load before it breaks. Grade 8 will bend, just not as far.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
my spring pin is a allen head screw.no problems.
As it should be.
Factory spring pins aren't allen head, they are round head and just have a slot in them.
