Probably january/february time frame. I've got a few other things to take care of before I can come back.
CK5
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Zeus
- Thread starter Zeus33rd
- Start date
Probably january/february time frame. I've got a few other things to take care of before I can come back.
I'm guessing you've looked into the pros and cons of swapping in an NV4500? Don't know if that's a direction that you'd want to take, but for $1600, I'd think that you could do the NV4500 for not too much more.I haven't done anything with it yet. I've just been driving it around on post....no 3rd gear keeps me at 45mph tops and an iffy reverse keeps me on my toes as far as parking.
I have a few options as far as fixing it. The B&M, but that's money- About $1600 or so. I can drive it the 15 miles on a 65mph highway to the shop at my 45mph top speed, pay them ~$1k to fix it, road test etc and have a warranty. Or I can pull it myself, again, and take it to them to fix pay ~$500 and get no warranty. This particular shop won't warranty unless they do the pull, rebuild, do the re-install and road test etc. I get that, no big deal.
The warranty doesn't mean much to me, because after January or so, the truck is never gonna be within 2800 miles of of Georgia again. I'm leaning towards taking the trans to them for a bench rebuild. I bought a forward drum with 34 element sprag already installed, from folkenheath. Per his recommendation, I'd like to get some Alto Red Eagle frictions as well as a torrington thrust bearing for the case. I could take all that stuff to the shop along with the trans and ask them to install it.
Whatever I do will have to wait till the beginning of December anyways. That's when the money comes in.
I have.
The biggest reason I don't really want to do it is simple. I'm tired of driving a std transmission. My dd is a manual...it's just getting old.
There are also some potential issues with mounting a heavy np205 on the end of the 4500. The mount is under the adapter, so no support for the 205- it would be just hanging off the end of the the aluminum adapter, (another expensive Advanced Adapters part) that's a lot of weight just hanging there with no support. Some sort of additional support could be fabbed up to solve the problem, but that just takes time, more money etc. Not to mention clutch stuff- pedal, master/slave and lines. I'd be $3k (at least) into a 4500 swap.
Behind a gas motor, about the only other thing I would consider would be a 4L80E.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I have driven a built 4l80e with a standalone rossler "little black box" controller. Wow wicked ride. It makes it a manual valve body. Was behind a twin turbo smallblock though at a conservative 600 HP. On a first hand testimonial, I'm a believer now.
But for something destined to go behind a cummins, build up a 47rh. The aftermarket is just about limitless for them. Id just keep wailing the th400 until that time though.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
But for something destined to go behind a cummins, build up a 47rh. The aftermarket is just about limitless for them. Id just keep wailing the th400 until that time though.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
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And after the successful road test-
Been awhile since I've been able to update this thread.....after 8 months of sitting with a dead transmission, it's finally alive again...woooohooooo!
We met the delivery truck at Lowes at about noon today. It's 12:30 here now. We were road testing at about 10:00. Went pretty good...and damn does this thing shift firm!
I love it! Supposed to be good for 500hp. 
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Fuggin' awesome dude!
And after the successful road test-
Saw that photo on FB, and had no idea what your actual name was . Showed up on my newsfeed after scott commented, haha.
I'll PM you my real name.
awesome man!! im looking forward to hearing how that thing holds up.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
Killer rig,
just curious on what the GVW on that truck is? over 10k?
just curious on what the GVW on that truck is? over 10k?
Glad you got that thing working again! So I am confused now, not sure whether you are in cali or GA? Where is the truck?
What all does that have done to it? 34 element sprag? dual fed directs? rollerized rear bearing? Just curious what they consider good for 500 hp.
What all does that have done to it? 34 element sprag? dual fed directs? rollerized rear bearing? Just curious what they consider good for 500 hp.
Unless he moved back, I am pretty sure he is in Georgia.
Martin
Martin
Not sure? It's a one ton, so whatever GVW a 1 ton is I guess.
I'm in Georgia right now. My buddy and I flew out here to put the truck back together, get all my **** and road trip back to California.
Not sure what all they do...Here's a link to the trans on the monster website-
http://www.monstertrans.com/store/products/Turbo-400-TH400-Heavy-Duty-Transmission-4WD-4x4.html
Are you driving it back to California, as opposed to shipping it this time?
Martin
Martin
Joe, it may be rated to 500hp, but for you the important rating is water depth..........
I still say you need a little sign on the dash that says " This Vehicle is not an M1 Abrams Tank"
After you get it to Cali., do it a favor. Change the fluid and filter.
A rebuilt transmission does not throw off wear particles like a rebuilt engine does as it breaks in, but there is some, and its good to get them out.
Many years ago, I bought a top of the line Mercedes. It came with two coupons in the service booklet.
One was for after the first 750 miles, and the other for after the first 1500 miles.
You took the car in at those miles and gave the dealer the coupon.
They would change the engine, transmission, and rear end oil for free.
And do it again at the 1500 mile mark.
As the booklet said, it was not mandatory that it be done, but if it was not done the warranty was subject to review.........
I still say you need a little sign on the dash that says " This Vehicle is not an M1 Abrams Tank"
After you get it to Cali., do it a favor. Change the fluid and filter.
A rebuilt transmission does not throw off wear particles like a rebuilt engine does as it breaks in, but there is some, and its good to get them out.
Many years ago, I bought a top of the line Mercedes. It came with two coupons in the service booklet.
One was for after the first 750 miles, and the other for after the first 1500 miles.
You took the car in at those miles and gave the dealer the coupon.
They would change the engine, transmission, and rear end oil for free.
And do it again at the 1500 mile mark.
As the booklet said, it was not mandatory that it be done, but if it was not done the warranty was subject to review.........
Glad to see the truck is running. Have a great trip back to CA!
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Yup. While flat towing my '04 Nissan Frontier...
And followed by a tanker full of fuel....
And followed by a tanker full of fuel....
lol, I wish I could get a tanker to follow me around...Then I wouldn't have to stop.
So driving around down at the Hammers was an interesting experience with the bump steer/death wobble I had going on. It was embarrassing actually. My truck gets a lot of attention in the first place, and with the tires wobbling around, it's even worse. The ORD pit tent was right next to the Lucas Oil/Figspeed tent, so I was able to just walk across the way to talk with Stephen about my problems. (By the way, thanks to Stephen and the ORD crew for helping me with my steering issues and helping us out with hub nut sockets and and other advice on the race car) Other than the standard stuff- making sure the wheel bearings and king pins were tight, he said he thought I just had cross over steering going on. IE bump steer and death wobble due to drag link angle being to steep. We talked about a couple different solutions- a block under the passenger side steering arm to get the geometry back where it should be, steering stabilizers, assist steering and possibly a panhard bar.
I finally got back home a couple days ago and decided to tackle one of the things I could do without really spending money on parts. I lowered the steering box about 4" on the frame. I was able to utilize the original lower forward mounting hole on the frame, the other three I had to build a mount for. My drag link is now perfectly parallel with the tie rod and the bump steer is about 90% gone. I'm sure the rest of it will be solved by a hydraulic assist ram.
As you can see, this wouldn't have been possible without the XJ steering shaft.
Went from this-
To this-
Much better.
I finally got back home a couple days ago and decided to tackle one of the things I could do without really spending money on parts. I lowered the steering box about 4" on the frame. I was able to utilize the original lower forward mounting hole on the frame, the other three I had to build a mount for. My drag link is now perfectly parallel with the tie rod and the bump steer is about 90% gone. I'm sure the rest of it will be solved by a hydraulic assist ram.
As you can see, this wouldn't have been possible without the XJ steering shaft.
Went from this-
To this-
Much better.
That's significant! Nice work
