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Zeus

Hey Joe,
Hate to ask, but I have my 82 K30,(non-dually), and I was wondering what those springs and shackle flip cost. Just a "WAG" would be cool, if you don't mind.(that is a 6" lift correct?)

Thanks,
Deven

The front springs were $265 ea, the rears were $260. The shackle flip was $172. Fronts are 8", rears are 4", shackle flip is 4".

I'm sure its on his list but for now he's got alot on his plate from the sounds of it

Rear discs are actually not on my list. Mostly due to the vehicle inspections I have to deal with in the Army. A working e-brake is mandatory. I know there are options for the e-brake thing- eldo calipers, HAD driveline e-brake etc, but both are more of an ass ache than I want to deal with. Someday maybe.
 
your right, if the drums work then leave them. get everything else done. thats how our rigs sit for so long, we keep doing more fab on them. go drive this thing!
 
It's mobile again. Finally.

A few issues to work out. Need longer shackles up front. The spring eyes are hitting the frame.

I think it needs shims or something up front. Feels like something is 'off' geometry wise. Camber/caster, toe-in/toe-out etc. I don't really know much about all that, what to adjust, how to adjust or how a given change/adjustment will affect how the truck drives. Anyone care to give me a class on the subject?

Still need to tear the drums off the rear 70 to get to the wheel cylinders and replace them. I just did a quick and dirty bleed of the rears by cracking the line.

I need to figure out a more 'elegant" solution for mounting the rear shocks. Moving the axle back messed everything up. Pictures of that below.

Gotta get up to HAD to get the rear drive-line lengthened, and get Jesse's advice on what to do about a front shaft.

Once again, I forgot the regular camera, so these are taken with my phone.

Stupid calipers. :doah:
IMG_20101116_181400.jpg


Shock mounts. Went from this-
IMG_20101116_191429.jpg


To this-
IMG_20101116_210908.jpg


I just cut the stock piece off, modified it and welded it back on. Might make something cooler one day, might not. I had to do this for both the front and rear mounts on the axle. The passenger side upper mount worked out just fine. Drivers side is a different story. Since the axle moved back, the upper mount is to far forward in relation to the axle. The shock is kicked down at to low an angle. I'm going to cut it off and relocate back however far is needed to make it match the angle of the passenger shock. That's gonna suck ass because it involves more rivets. Bleh.


Oh yeah, whats the consensus on shock boots? Keep'em or no? They sure are a pain in the ass.
 
Getting there Joe.

Ditch the boots that do nothing more than trap water and crap inside them and make the shaft rust and tear the shock seal.
 
Lookin good Joe. Is it just me, or are the front shocks going to bottom out a long time before the bumptstop hits, or the spring even get's flat?

Look how much you have gotten done on that thing in just 2 weeks!

And this is post 502 of mine, I think that's a sign you need a 502!

Or you could just put a cam, headers, and intake on that thing and wake it up bigtime!

I agree with Scott that the shock boots do trap water and debris. I had them on mine for a while because particularly in the rear, I thought they would help protect the shaft from rock chips on the road(if you have them mounted shaft down). But I would pop one end loose and clean them out periodically, especially after any muddin or water crossings, you would be surprised how much crud gets in there.
 
Bump stops? lol Springs getting flat? lol :haha:

Seriously though, with 8 " springs, those bump stops are just decoration. And no way 8" springs are EVER gonna "flatten out".

I'm not gonna touch the motor in this truck. Cummins next year sometime.

And I cut the shock boots off last night.
 
Bump stops? lol Springs getting flat? lol :haha:

Seriously though, with 8 " springs, those bump stops are just decoration. And no way 8" springs are EVER gonna "flatten out".

I'm not gonna touch the motor in this truck. Cummins next year sometime.

You might be surprised with that big truck, I had 6" lift springs and I used more compression than your shock has left.

And unless I was doing frequent towing, I would take a big block over a cummins.

I think the truck is coming along real nice Joe, keep it up. We are enjoying seeing your progress.

I think it needs shims or something up front. Feels like something is 'off' geometry wise. Camber/caster, toe-in/toe-out etc. I don't really know much about all that, what to adjust, how to adjust or how a given change/adjustment will affect how the truck drives. Anyone care to give me a class on the subject?


Also, to set your toe, put a piece of tape on each of your front tires somewhere near the center of the tread.

Rotate both tires so the tape is straight forward...measure to the inside edges of the tape.

Rotate both tires so the tape is straight back...and measure to the inside edges of the tape.

You want ~1/8" (no more than 1/16" error, preferably less) of toe in (closer in the front side than in the rear measurement). Adjust that using your tie rod.

Then obviously you rotate the draglink to get the steering wheel centered while the tires are straight ahead.

As for your caster, put an angle gauge on your crossover steering arm. It should be angled down in the back about 5 - 8 degrees. If it is too small of an angle it will cause issues. It may wander and it won't return to center well after turns, etc. If the angle is a little too much it will probably handle fine, however, then you may have issues with your pinion angle at the front u-joint, which is likely if there is too much caster on an 8" lift.
 
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You might be surprised with that big truck, I had 6" lift springs and I used more compression than your shock has left.

And unless I was doing frequent towing, I would take a big block over a cummins.

I think the truck is coming along real nice Joe, keep it up. We are enjoying seeing your progress.




Also, to set your toe, put a piece of tape on each of your front tires somewhere near the center of the tread.

Rotate both tires so the tape is straight forward...measure to the inside edges of the tape.

Rotate both tires so the tape is straight back...and measure to the inside edges of the tape.

You want ~1/8" (no more than 1/16" error, preferably less) of toe in (closer in the front side than in the rear measurement). Adjust that using your tie rod.

Then obviously you rotate the draglink to get the steering wheel centered while the tires are straight ahead.

As for your caster, put an angle gauge on your crossover steering arm. It should be angled down in the back about 5 - 8 degrees. If it is too small of an angle it will cause issues. It may wander and it won't return to center well after turns, etc. If the angle is a little too much it will probably handle fine, however, then you may have issues with your pinion angle at the front u-joint, which is likely if there is too much caster on an 8" lift.

On the cummins thing....No way in hell would I ever take the motor in this truck over a built cummins. Built right, a 12v will put down more power, a LOT more. And better mileage, by FAR. It'll last longer, easier to maintain...I can't really see a single reason to run a big block in this kind of truck. Ridiculously expensive to drive. I could go on and on....

And thank you sooo much for explaining the caster/toe thing in terms that make sense. Sounds easy enough to adjust things the way they should be.
 
My own observations on the whole disc brake rear thing. Unless I am going in mud alot, drums are staying.

I could modulate the brakes really good on my old blazer and when I put discs on I never got enough braking power from the rear to need to modulate. Stomp the pedal and it slows down, with the drums it would lock up the rear, with my discs it won't.
 
I love 454s as much as anyone, but I dream of a short box crew cab nv 4500 12 valve 3+3 so bad I can taste it.

Your tuck is looking SWEET! Go man go!!
 
On the cummins thing....No way in hell would I ever take the motor in this truck over a built cummins. Built right, a 12v will put down more power, a LOT more. And better mileage, by FAR. It'll last longer, easier to maintain...I can't really see a single reason to run a big block in this kind of truck. Ridiculously expensive to drive. I could go on and on.....


agreed to the Nth degree
 
I almost forgot to post these. Stopped by my buddies shop earlier today, Twisted Metal Fab, to return his KOH video and drop of some steel I had for him. His name is Joe too. Snapped a picture of the truck in the parking lot and a couple pics of his and his partners current projects. His brother Brendon, is the same Brendon that's been on the last couple episodes of American Chopper, helping Jr with sheet metal and gas tanks. Brendon built the gas tank on the "Geico" bike. Back before Joe had the business, we built the cage for my old truggy in Brendons garage. :woot:

IMG_20101117_145845.jpg


A KOH car he's building-
IMG_20101117_145608.jpg

IMG_20101117_145546.jpg

IMG_20101117_145627.jpg


And a Del Sol? His partners "after work" project. Can't remember exactly what it was, but that's a Ford 5.0 mocked up in there. :haha:
IMG_20101117_145906.jpg

IMG_20101117_145916.jpg


Always good times when I stop by his shop. He calls my truck a "Redneck Battle Truck". :haha:
 
I have a spare set off a 79, PM with your address and i'll put a set of calipers in the mail tomorrow. I know I said it before but your service means alot and I thank you and your brothers in arms every chance I get. If you go discs, the calipers and the freight to get them to your front door is on me :thumb:

Thanks again and God bless :smile1:


Hey man, I understand sticking with drums, I am as well. But if you change your mind the offer still stands. The truck looks bad ass, keep up the momentum. I check your build several times a day :popcorn:
 
On the cummins thing....No way in hell would I ever take the motor in this truck over a built cummins.

Not really a fair comparison, a stock TBI 454 over a built cummins...?

I respect diesels, they get good mileage, they produce a lot of low end torque, they are great for towing, and the mileage even stays decent for that. They work well. They are both (BB and Diesel) good for their own thing, and they can both be built to make thousands of hp, and it's a good thing all of us don't like the same thing or it would be boring.

With that said I could go on and on about why I like big block V8s over diesels. Cost, Weight, RPM, sound, fuel system hassles, cold weather hassles, etc. But I would have to say the main reason that turns me off of them is when you start to make some real power in a gas engine it doesn't start bellowing out so much black smoke and soot that you can see a path of where the vehicle just drove on the ground. I just feel like it's going to give us wheelers a bunch of bad attention.

However, I doubt you are going to tune it up to that level, and I agree, you will get much better mileage, and for what you want to do with the truck, weight really isn't a factor. So it's probably the best option for you.

I think your truck is bad@$$ either way, so enjoy it.

And I hope that procedure works for you on the front end alignment, glad I could help.


My own observations on the whole disc brake rear thing. Unless I am going in mud alot, drums are staying.

I could modulate the brakes really good on my old blazer and when I put discs on I never got enough braking power from the rear to need to modulate. Stomp the pedal and it slows down, with the drums it would lock up the rear, with my discs it won't.

Eric, are you sure something wasn't quite right with the discs? When I put my disks in I used the larger piston calipers in the front and the smaller in the rear, and I still had to use a prop valve to modulate the rear down considerably, or the rear would lock up to easy when I had to stop fast.

However, it is also true that although discs are better for dynamic braking because of heat and brake fade, and are more efficient at stopping a moving vehicle, drum brakes have more surface area, and do have better static holding power. Is that what you are referring too?

By the way, when Zim and I were wheeling he was thankful to have ridden with you at Moab, he was very impressed with your rig! Said it had sick flex and you would take it anywhere. That's awesome!
 
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Not really a fair comparison, a stock TBI 454 over a built cummins...?

I respect diesels, they get good mileage, they produce a lot of low end torque, they are great for towing, and the mileage even stays decent for that. They work well. They are both (BB and Diesel) good for their own thing, and they can both be built to make thousands of hp, and it's a good thing all of us don't like the same thing or it would be boring.

With that said I could go on and on about why I like big block V8s over diesels. Cost, Weight, RPM, sound, fuel system hassles, cold weather hassles, etc. But I would have to say the main reason that turns me off of them is when you start to make some real power in a gas engine it doesn't start bellowing out so much black smoke and soot that you can see a path of where the vehicle just drove on the ground. I just feel like it's going to give us wheelers a bunch of bad attention.

However, I doubt you are going to tune it up to that level, and I agree, you will get much better mileage, and for what you want to do with the truck, weight really isn't a factor. So it's probably the best option for you.

I think your truck is bad@$$ either way, so enjoy it.

And I hope that procedure works for you on the front end alignment, glad I could help.

I realize this is an endless argument with no possible winner. But....everything I said still stands. A cummins will make way more torque and hp, with way less money. And like I said, better milage, 2-3 times better.

You said cost...intial cost perhaps. That's it.

Weight- I'll give ya that.

RPM?? With more hp/tg, who cares about RPM? Just requires a different driving style.

Fuel system hassle...what could be more simple than a mechanically injected cummins?

Sound is subjective. I love the sound of a straight piped 12v. Some people like the sound of a 40 series flowmaster on a big block. I think it's obnoxious.

Cold start hassles....only if the motor isn't 100%.

Smoke...don't have to "roll coal" like a train to make big power. Just like the sound, some people like this.

As for how far I plan to build it....I want atleast 1000ft-lbs and 500hp. And twin turbos. And a Suncoast transmission. Something that can run with the new diesels. It's either build the truck like this, or spend 2-3 times more and buy a new truck.

One day, when it's all said and done, we'll have to get together and run an impromptu stop light to stop light race. My cummins against your big block. Then we can do a tow test. Then you can stop for fuel while I stop and get some beers. :woot::haha:


Thanks again for the alignment procedure. Gonna try to make use of that today.
 
I would Seriously reconsider that choice NADP or ATS. Suncoast can lick my balls
Sooooo, I'm a little unclear.......Does that mean that you do or don't like Suncoast??
 
Sooooo, I'm a little unclear.......Does that mean that you do or don't like Suncoast??

That would be a Big vote for DO NOT like . I've had 2 of there converters fail on me ( one was catastrophic) and One trans they did for me that failed in 18,000 miles

There lead time was long and there phone support sucked.

I've had other friends with similar bad experience with there stuff.

That was 4yrs ago I dont know if they've improved our not.

I love my ATS trans, and I've installed 2 NADP trans in High horsepower trucks that are holding up great
 
Kinda figured that, but if I said that, changing Suncoast to Angelina Jolie.....
Well, it would not mean I was mad at her.....:D
 
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