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Zeus

looks damn great.
if the tire was in the "forward" position with the springs flipped around, wouldn't it move rearward under compression. somewhere i read about the brackets being swapable for shackle angles.

i saw this on ORD's site....could this be the issue?

1-ton trucks require a different flip kit than k5's, k10's and k20's. The kit is the same price, we just need to know it's for a 1-ton when you order it. The difference is that the spring center spacing on the 1-ton axle is only 40 1/2", and on the rest of the trucks, it's 42 1/2". The brackets are a different shape to reflect that.
 
Truck looks awesome! Great job! I agree with these guys on shackle flip, first thing I thought when I saw it was they are on the wrong side, swap the brackets to opposite sides and it will be better. However, it will not effect your wheel centering because that is controlled by the front spring eye location and the centerbolt location in the spring.

Also, when you swapped the springs to the opposite sides it moved the axle back, so your departure angle is better. However, now when the suspension travels up the tire will hit the back of the fender, so you may need to trim it. With the wheel more forward, it will pivot up and back and you may not need to trim it at all, but your departure angle will suffer, it's a compromise.

You are doing a lot of work, things don't always go smoothly, that's just the way it goes, but you are doing a good job, keep up the good work. And the plasma is the only way to get factory rivets out! Once you use the gouge tip on the rivets and it takes twenty seconds with the plasma and two seconds with the air hammer per rivet, you won't go back. All that cussing with grinders, drills, etc is behind you! :thumb:

Also, thank you for serving our country.
 
Again, great looking truck! Can't wait to see poser shots of the finished project. :bow:
 
$48 worth of grade 8 hardware?!? You need to shop around next time. I go to a local hardware store for all my nuts/bolts/washers and it's really reasonable. You have an OSH around you? If so go check out their grade 8 section.

Truck looks great!
 
shovelbill80 said:
looks damn great.
if the tire was in the "forward" position with the springs flipped around, wouldn't it move rearward under compression. somewhere i read about the brackets being swapable for shackle angles.

i saw this on ORD's site....could this be the issue?

1-ton trucks require a different flip kit than k5's, k10's and k20's. The kit is the same price, we just need to know it's for a 1-ton when you order it. The difference is that the spring center spacing on the 1-ton axle is only 40 1/2", and on the rest of the trucks, it's 42 1/2". The brackets are a different shape to reflect that.
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The quote from ORD site has nothing to do with the issue here. That quote only has to do with the flip brackets being a different design than the K5, 10 and 20. Where the frame rails sit at the same width apart, the shackle brackets and forward spring hangers are a different width than the others. These brackets are what determine the 40.5" and 42.5" perch widths.
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
Looking at the flip brackets, it looks like they are on the wrong side. Is it just an optical illusion or could switching sides get you a better shackle angle?

The truck looks awesome:thumb:
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90'K5 said:
Truck looks awesome!

Maybe I missed it, but how long the are Alcans? It looks like the shackle flip is mounted backwards, flipping sides should correct your shackle angle.
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Greg72 said:
It looks the same to me as well. There's about 1" of offset built into the brackets from the looks of it, and it looks like swapping them around would move the upper shackle bolt a total of 2" forward.....just about perfect to fix that shackle angle.

:thinking:
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stumpjump said:
I agree, if you switch sides on the flip it will improve you shackle angle but it will also move your tire back farther. I hate to be the one to say it but it looks to me that if you switch the springs back and switch sides on the flip your tire will be very close to the center of the wheel well. On the bright side it may keep you from having to get the rear drive line lengthened.

The truck looks great though! Thanks for your Service :thumb:
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That's just ****ing awesome. Yesterdays suck is spilling over into today. :flipoff1::flipoff1::flipoff1:

Avery4jc said:
$48 worth of grade 8 hardware?!? You need to shop around next time. I go to a local hardware store for all my nuts/bolts/washers and it's really reasonable. You have an OSH around you? If so go check out their grade 8 section.

Truck looks great!
Click to expand...

6 9/16x5 bolts, 6 nuts, 6 lock washers and 12 flat washers. As well as 4 3/8 lock and flat washers. The 9/16's bolt themselves where $4.25 ea. And it was a hardware store-

http://www.hillsflat.com/

One of the only places in town open on Sunday. No Osh within 25 miles. There's Napa, True Value, Hills Flat, and one other lumberyard/hardware place on the other side of town. Only options for more than 1 or 2 pieces of grade 8 at a time.
 
KidJethro said:
That's just ****ing awesome. Yesterdays suck is spilling over into today. :flipoff1::flipoff1::flipoff1:



6 9/16x5 bolts, 6 nuts, 6 lock washers and 12 flat washers. As well as 4 3/8 lock and flat washers. The 9/16's bolt themselves where $4.25 ea. And it was a hardware store-

http://www.hillsflat.com/

One of the only places in town open on Sunday. No Osh within 25 miles. There's Napa, True Value, Hills Flat, and one other lumberyard/hardware place on the other side of town. Only options for more than 1 or 2 pieces of grade 8 at a time.
Click to expand...

Any Tractor Supplies near by, you can get grade 8 stuff by the pound, got all my beadlock hardware for around $50-60 bucks.
 
Duntz00 said:
Any Tractor Supplies near by, you can get grade 8 stuff by the pound, got all my beadlock hardware for around $50-60 bucks.
Click to expand...

That's another good option. I've bought some hardware at TS before and depending on what it is you can get a pretty good deal by the pound.
 
By the way, flipping the diy brackets around fixed the shackle angle. And I almost died in the process. :eek1:

On my phone now, pictures later tonight.
 
You could also run some angled zero rates in the rear. You could fix the pinion angle and move the axle 1.5 inch forward at the same time.

Looks killer though:waytogo:
 
Don't know if they still say this, but they used to say, " When the pin is out, Mr. Grenade is no longer your friend"

Well, the civilian version is: When the truck is off the wheels, Mr. Jack is no longer your friend. Mr. Jack Stand is.

Also, always make sure all the tension is off a spring.....
 
All those other fancy parts and you aren't going to put rear discs on?

Martin
 
$158 later. Sigh.

I think I'm done. I'm just gonna drink beer for the rest of the night.

I'll explain further when I get home to the computer and off my phone.
 
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