Zeus

[Zeus33rd]

Did you dual feed the direct clutches? It's pretty much free and doubles your 3rd gear capacity. I would of least went with the 34 element sprag, but I guess if your leaving the engine stock and maybe swapping out the whole setup down the road it doesn't matter much.

Ya know, I was going to do that, I remembered reading about it in one of those links you posted. But I forgot about it till just now when I saw your post... No way I'm taking it apart again. Lining up all the little teeth on the clutch frictions and getting the parts to seat together was enough to give me more gray hair.

I wanted to do the 34 element sprag, but, unfortunately, it was a money thing.

 

[folkenheath]

Ya know, I was going to do that, I remembered reading about it in one of those links you posted. But I forgot about it till just now when I saw your post... No way I'm taking it apart again. Lining up all the little teeth on the clutch frictions and getting the parts to seat together was enough to give me more gray hair.

I wanted to do the 34 element sprag, but, unfortunately, it was a money thing.

You don't have to take the direct drum apart (did you put the center seal in the drum?). You can just pop the pump out, remove the forward and direct drums, and remove the 2nd sealing ring from the front, then put it back together, only 6 bolts. Then just punch the cup plug in the case and you're done. Either the center seal in the drum, the 2nd seal in the center support, or both will work. Plus the plug in the case, which is required if you left either seal out. I think it's worth it with your big heavy rig. You can probably have it done in 10 minutes if the valve body is still off.

 

[Zeus33rd]

You don't have to take the direct drum apart (did you put the center seal in the drum?). You can just pop the pump out, remove the forward and direct drums, and remove the 2nd sealing ring from the front, then put it back together, only 6 bolts. Then just punch the cup plug in the case and you're done. Either the center seal in the drum, the 2nd seal in the center support, or both will work. Plus the plug in the case, which is required if you left either seal out. I think it's worth it with your big heavy rig. You can probably have it done in 10 minutes if the valve body is still off.

Hmmm.... If it's that simple, I might just do it anyways.

Forgive me for not knowing the names of the parts...You asked if I put the center seal in the drum, are you referring to the asinine little rubber lip seals that took 20 mins with a damn dental pick to seat correctly?

 

[folkenheath]

Hmmm.... If it's that simple, I might just do it anyways.

Forgive me for not knowing the names of the parts...You asked if I put the center seal in the drum, are you referring to the asinine little rubber lip seals that took 20 mins with a damn dental pick to seat correctly?

Yeah, one of those seals, although it is the center one, so you can't get to it, but since the piston is tapered that one locates itself.

You can leave that one on and just take out the 2nd ring in the center support though, which would be easiest at this point. (Unless you happened to leave that center one off, then you already did it, and you just need to put the plug in the case).

Looky here... (scroll down to the bottom 3 pictures)

http://www.jakesperformance.com/TH400_Rebuild_Tech.html

Just don't confuse the direct drum with the forward drum, they look similar on the piston side, the forward drum has the input shaft sticking out the other side, and the direct drum has the roller clutch/sprag on the other side.

 

[ryoken]

Hurst V-matic shifter

cool.... it should be a fun choice... that whole lower race mode is a hoot to drive... when I first started using those as a teen on my Mopars, I was hooked..

I haven't bought one in about 12 yrs, but hopefully they haven't changed in quality.. I doubt it... the cables aren't quite as beef as the AC's have, but work fine. just take care when routing and securing...

 

[Zeus33rd]

Posted this in the worst stuck thread, but obviously it's appropriate here too.

I think it's been long enough for the fall out from this to have blown over, so now I can post up video of this extraction. This is the mudhole that killed the trans in my truck. I've posted pictures, but not the video till now. Nothin else we tried would even budge it from this hole. The mud killed the starter, so it was a dead pull of a 7500lb truck. Tried an '05ish Dodge Ram 3500 dually 4 door with Cummins, and a couple smaller trucks. In the end it took the medic ambulance from the motor pool to get it out. M113 APC. It skull drug the truck out like a fart int he wind.

As usual, 1080p if you select it.

I was read my article 15 yesterday and have been serving my 7 days restriction and 7 days extra duty.

 

[Slapperbar]

For using the APC?

 

[Zeus33rd]

I didn't personally take the hit for that. My buddy, the medic who the track belongs to, is doing his punishment for that.

Mine was for being in the training area on a tank trail where personally owned vehicles aren't supposed to be.

 

[Slapperbar]

POV on a GOV trail, it sucks when the man gets crankie like that. At least the medic was driving his track & not you, the man would've really fooked you for that. Probably.

 

[Fordum]

Tank trail, huh??

OK, got a new project for you.............

There should be a trophy shop somewhere near you. Go down and get a brass plaque made.
Not so big as to be ostentatious, but big enough to stand out.

It needs to say something along the lines of:

" This Vehicle Is Not An M1 Abrams "

And mount it on the dash where you can see it from time to time.

Back when I was a teenager running around in bad places in a dual wheeled Jeep, even I knew not to try to go down the same road log skidders used...

6 foot high tires leave ruts that are not for normal vehicles.
Likewise 60 ton tracked vehicles......

 

[imiceman44]

Tank trail, huh??

OK, got a new project for you.............

There should be a trophy shop somewhere near you. Go down and get a brass plaque made.
Not so big as to be ostentatious, but big enough to stand out.

It needs to say something along the lines of:

" This Vehicle Is Not An M1 Abrams "

And mount it on the dash where you can see it from time to time.

Back when I was a teenager running around in bad places in a dual wheeled Jeep, even I knew not to try to go down the same road log skidders used...

6 foot high tires leave ruts that are not for normal vehicles.
Likewise 60 ton tracked vehicles......

Well same goes for regular cars on a military trail.
I used to go to this hunting spot with my 1969 mercedes 220s and after the army took over the area we stayed away for a year or 2 then one day some guys told me the army doesn't mind when they go hunting close by, so I took my mercedes, at night on that dirt road and I was going like usual about 40mph on this curvy road and I come upon the soft area where the deuces made these really deep ruts, so I figured I could ride the top of the middle rut and one edge and I was doing good staying on the high points until I got cocky and went back to 40mph and I took this curve a little too fast and the car slid sideways and I high centered with my tires a foot above ground.
I had to walk to the the base and beg the officer in charge to help me get out, he sent half a dozen guys to help and we pretty much pushed it sideways back on the tops and I drove it out slowly and nvere went back till they shut down the base and restored the road to roughly flat.

 

[Lunatic]

My question is........what little birdie whispered in the NCOIC's ear....

That's ...... BS






Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

Mine was for being in the training area on a tank trail where personally owned vehicles aren't supposed to be.

Our solution to that (depending on location of course) is we always have an up to date fishing license, poles and a tackle box in the truck. So when the MPs are out and about and stop us, we just say we were going to the lake to go fishing and got lost. Which is easy at Fort Lewis, couple of lakes all over you can go fishing... they're just not around the areas we like to go mudding.

And ocassionally the cool ones with play with us in their Tahoes for a few minutes and hit up the wash rack before they continue on their way.

 

[Zeus33rd]

Just ordered the new shifter-

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hurst/530/383-8520/10002/-1?parentProductId=745809

And I forgot to post pictures of the finished trans temp gauge install-

Need to finish wiring it.

I'm gonna try to get the trans installed back in the truck this weekend. Gotta bribe some friends to help me muscle the heavy bitch back up there....long way off the ground.

Hopefully, if I didn't screw anything up on the rebuild, it'll be mobile again within the next week or so.

 

[Zeus33rd]

Hurst V-Matic 2 mounted and loosely assembled. Still need to run the shift cable and wire the back up lights etc. I think this positioning will work out pretty good till I can find some bucket seats and mount it more in the middle.

I didn't spend a lot of time trimming the base to match the floor. Just enough for everything to function correctly. I'm a form follows function kinda guy.

The dual shift ratchet/gate mode thing is pretty damn cool. As soon as I get the hang of it, I could see myself havin fun with the ratchet mode.

 

[Fordum]

I meant to ask, did you find anything obviously wrong when you rebuilt it?

Stripped out clutch bands, mud incrusted parts?

 

[Zeus33rd]

I meant to ask, did you find anything obviously wrong when you rebuilt it?

Stripped out clutch bands, mud incrusted parts?

Ya know...its funny you asked that. That was somethin that bugged me from the start....other than the mud in the pump, which came through my vent tube, the inside of the thing was spotless. Bright red, normal smelling fluid. Both bands looked fine, along with the friction and steel plates. It was obvious that they were worn, but also obviously serviceable.

 

[folkenheath]

Ya know...its funny you asked that. That was somethin that bugged me from the start....other than the mud in the pump, which came through my vent tube, the inside of the thing was spotless. Bright red, normal smelling fluid. Both bands looked fine, along with the friction and steel plates. It was obvious that they were worn, but also obviously serviceable.

I wouldn't worry, if you checked everything over, the mud in the pump could easily do that, especially considering that if there was mud in the pump, it was most likely in the converter too, which could easily mess it up. Definitely don't put the same converter back on there unless you have it cut apart and reconditioned.

 

[Zeus33rd]

New torque converter showed up yesterday-

Gonna work on getting this thing put back together this weekend. Anyone got any ideas about how to get this trans stuck up in there without the use of a jack?

 

[1BEATK5]

i have had my brother do it. twice. he lays on his back. head facing the front of the truck. pulls the trans up onto his legs ntil he can get the pan setting on his toes. then grabs it by the bellhousing and bench presses that sucker in there. then i thread the bolts in