Sometimes, you name the truck, other times it names itself.Nice...
CK5
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‘76 K10 SWB Silverado "Pops"- Off to its new home!
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
Mostly stock rebuild.
I hope after the build starts, the name fades. Or I hope that doesn't end up being it's personality...ew...
Not positive on what it says on the dash pad but I think bitch truck might be the better choice! Lol!
Maybe a bit off Laquer thiner would take some of that off the truck?
Maybe a bit off Laquer thiner would take some of that off the truck?
It clearly says "dickless" on the dash lol.
I started cleaning off the spray paint, which is why my wife could read the words written on the driver's door. The black spray paint was covered with silver by the last owner, and apparently the silver was cheaper value paint compared to the black.
Laquer thinner took it off pretty quickly, but I don't want to remove too much of the original paint until it's time to bring the truck in for the body work portion. So I am picking up a can of enamel reducer to try and take only the spray paint off. We'll see how that goes.
Yup, cheapest alloys from Discount Tire at the time.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
What do you mean he flaked?
Your first post says, "I'm going to beat him up on the price. "
Then you say he flaked?
How can you say make two consecutive comments like that that? So in other terms he told you F off because he didn't want to be lowballed?
We agreed on $350. We agreed on meeting Friday. He text me 2 hours later and said “just sold them for $400. Sorry cash talks.”
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Yeah, I've been there too, multiple times I've gotten screwed like that. I wish I had lived back when a man's word meant something.
Turned the truck around last night and backed it up to the driveway. Going to replace the starter and add a battery tomorrow, then see if a little ether persuasion gets this thing to fire up. Then maybe off the trailer.
Side note, this think looks rough from this angle
Side note, this think looks rough from this angle
Pulled the steering wheel today and swapped out they lock and tumbler. Also installed a starter I picked up from work, only to discover that this truck definitely has some wiring issues. There was a push button under the dash, that I’m thinking was for the starter. Ran out of time, but I am going to start chasing some wires.
Also took some time to swap out stuff that got broken from the Bobcat. Headlight buckets, and side markers replaced along with a wrong erra grille. Not the correct grille, but for $10 it will work for now until I pony up for the correct grille for a ‘76.
Also took some time to swap out stuff that got broken from the Bobcat. Headlight buckets, and side markers replaced along with a wrong erra grille. Not the correct grille, but for $10 it will work for now until I pony up for the correct grille for a ‘76.
I just realized that ‘76 is a lap belt only truck. That’s freaking cool.
Just ordered my '76 antique tag for the bitch. It's so minor, but I love running these old tags on these trucks.
Also, the lift and axles fell through as the guy's nephew scrapped them a couple months ago. So the current plan is to keep it on the stock springs and run some nice 31x10.50's and repaint the rallies a nice silver. Then focus on the body before I go the route of lifting it.
Also, the lift and axles fell through as the guy's nephew scrapped them a couple months ago. So the current plan is to keep it on the stock springs and run some nice 31x10.50's and repaint the rallies a nice silver. Then focus on the body before I go the route of lifting it.
We can run the original year plates in CO but they are dual registered with the regular plate and you're only supposed to run them when going to a car show or similar event.
Well that's kind of weird. I mean, at least you can still run them somewhat.
The couple of guys I know with year of manufacture plates just keep the "new" plate inside the vehicle. Not been hassled about it.
I would do that if I wasn't daily driving mine. I could probably get away with that on the 66 tho.
Snagged a new front bumper today and got a sneak peek of some tires I grabbed at work yesterday. Bumper will most likely go on this weekend.
The tires were only a pair, but 31x10.50r15's are really hard to come by at work. They are Summit AT Trail Climbers. Some off brand, but should be fine for now to get the rear 235/75r15's off the rear. I'll either pick up 2 more new, or wait and find a full set of something else.
The tires were only a pair, but 31x10.50r15's are really hard to come by at work. They are Summit AT Trail Climbers. Some off brand, but should be fine for now to get the rear 235/75r15's off the rear. I'll either pick up 2 more new, or wait and find a full set of something else.
Spent some time last night chasing wires trying to figure out why I had no power to my fuse block. Once I got to the small junction block at the firewall I found my issue.
So my question is, do I run my small gauge wire from my positive cable directly to that block? Or does there need to be a fuse between them?
So my question is, do I run my small gauge wire from my positive cable directly to that block? Or does there need to be a fuse between them?
That wire usually has a fusible link and comes from the starter. What I would do though is run a resettable breaker like one of these from Bussman. Not sure what rating you would need and come straight off the battery and over to the breaker then that junction block. Maybe some 6 or 8 ga at least. This is a 50 amp which I bet would be plenty but they do go bigger. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB1...o+reset+circuit+breaker&qid=1604418692&sr=8-5
