He's got a 10 bolt but I need some spare shafts
CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
I don't go up to LA very often. Unless I'm on my way to hit the trails in Big Bear.hey PBlaze, you ever come up this way? I've got some D44 stuff and a stock DS, make you a killer deal man.
I read your thread & like the attention to detail.
I was wondering if you still had the inboard shock mounts for the rear...?
andyblack
Registered Loser
Don't forget to look and see if your new flat top knuckle has the same taper for the tie rod as your driver's side knuckle. Most of the flat tops I've seen have the hole for the tie rod tapered for it to go in on the top, where as all the stock 10 bolt knuckles I've seen have the tie rod on the bottom. I had never paid attention until I broke a stock 10 bolt knuckle and got a replacement D44 knuckle (I didn't know there was a difference). The replacement knuckle needed the tie rod on the top and the one I already had needed the tie rod to go on the bottom.
Be careful with XJ shaft too. I had mine come loose where the rubber piece goes inside the top part and I couldn't steer the truck at all. After that I put the stock shaft back on. I've never heard of that happening before though.
Be careful with XJ shaft too. I had mine come loose where the rubber piece goes inside the top part and I couldn't steer the truck at all. After that I put the stock shaft back on. I've never heard of that happening before though.
I'm not using the stock tie rod mount. I plan to use the keyed high steer arm from Sky manufacturing.
Flat top is going to get some mill work done to it.
That' the first xj shaft fail i've heard of...
Flat top is going to get some mill work done to it.
That' the first xj shaft fail i've heard of...
andyblack
Registered Loser
Yeah that was wild. I got it from a guy on here and it was in good shape. I seperated the two halves and put the grease in there like everyone says to do. Seems like there was a little plastic piece or something that looked okay so I didn't mess with it. I ground the little notch out on the place where the shaft goes into the steering column and tightened both bolts and ran it for about a year with no problems. Then I started hearing a popping sound when I would turn the wheel while the truck was holding still. I checked to make sure the bolts were tight and they were. The popping sounds continued, so I took the shaft off and checked the little u-joints but they were okay and I couldn't find anything else wrong so I put it back on but I still heard the popping sound.
Right about this time, I had a fuel issue and the truck stalled and wouldn't start just down the street from my house. I tried to straighten the wheels up so I could pull it back home with my other truck, but when I turned the steering wheel, it just turned and turned and nothing happened at the front tires. Not good. I took the XJ shaft off and it looked like the top part of the shaft was just spinning inside the lower part. There was a rubber bushing in there that looked okay, but it looked like the two parts had slipped out of whack or something. I can't remember now. I had planned to do a thread with pics to warn everyone to watch out. I'm just glad it didn't break while I was going down the road. Strangely enough, the steering worked fine when the truck was running and the power steering could help out, but when I turned the wheel when the engine was off, the steering didn't work. It was like the top part of the shaft was turning but the bottom part wasn't.
Right about this time, I had a fuel issue and the truck stalled and wouldn't start just down the street from my house. I tried to straighten the wheels up so I could pull it back home with my other truck, but when I turned the steering wheel, it just turned and turned and nothing happened at the front tires. Not good. I took the XJ shaft off and it looked like the top part of the shaft was just spinning inside the lower part. There was a rubber bushing in there that looked okay, but it looked like the two parts had slipped out of whack or something. I can't remember now. I had planned to do a thread with pics to warn everyone to watch out. I'm just glad it didn't break while I was going down the road. Strangely enough, the steering worked fine when the truck was running and the power steering could help out, but when I turned the wheel when the engine was off, the steering didn't work. It was like the top part of the shaft was turning but the bottom part wasn't.
I never thought about the orientation of the tie rod. Good info.
I have heard of guys welding a washer in the back side of the steering shaft to take away from the play in the rubber but never heard of them failing like that
I have heard of guys welding a washer in the back side of the steering shaft to take away from the play in the rubber but never heard of them failing like that
andyblack
Registered Loser
If I think about this afternoon, I'll try to find it and post a pic of where it came apart at. I guess I could have just hammered it back together and hope it held but I just didn't want to chance it.
After that incident, I changed my mind about the XJ shaft. It seemed like a good upgrade to start with, but it has a lot of parts and I couldn't really tell any difference in the way the truck steered vs. the stock shaft. Maybe if I had replaced every component that has to do with the steering at the same time, I would have been able to tell. I put the old one back on for peace of mind. If the steering gets sloppy, I'll just replace the rag joint.
Now if I were going to crossover steering with a new or rebuilt 2wd box and/or hydro assist, I may veiw this thing differently. I just want everyone to be aware that the XJ shaft does have a remote possibilty for failure.
With the angle of the steering column to the steering box being more or less straight on these old trucks, I don't see why I really need a shaft with one or more u-joints. On later models with the wide frame, the steering box is nowhere near being inline with the steering column and so I can see where you definately need a shaft that can work at an angle. Just my opinion though.
Good luck on the steering, Pblaze. I'm sure it will turn out functional and practical, just like all the other stuff you've done so far though.
After that incident, I changed my mind about the XJ shaft. It seemed like a good upgrade to start with, but it has a lot of parts and I couldn't really tell any difference in the way the truck steered vs. the stock shaft. Maybe if I had replaced every component that has to do with the steering at the same time, I would have been able to tell. I put the old one back on for peace of mind. If the steering gets sloppy, I'll just replace the rag joint.
Now if I were going to crossover steering with a new or rebuilt 2wd box and/or hydro assist, I may veiw this thing differently. I just want everyone to be aware that the XJ shaft does have a remote possibilty for failure.
With the angle of the steering column to the steering box being more or less straight on these old trucks, I don't see why I really need a shaft with one or more u-joints. On later models with the wide frame, the steering box is nowhere near being inline with the steering column and so I can see where you definately need a shaft that can work at an angle. Just my opinion though.
Good luck on the steering, Pblaze. I'm sure it will turn out functional and practical, just like all the other stuff you've done so far though.
yep, the rubber on top can become loose and I've actually found them like that on XJs in the junkyard. I try to weld all the ones I ship out. I did on mine and I think it's a good idea.
PBlaze: I still have the lower inboard mounts but I'm not sure what I'm doing back there yet. They are cheap enough for me to keep kicking around the garage.
Super: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282004
PM me if interested in anything, buy one of the two larger items, get all the rest free
PBlaze: I still have the lower inboard mounts but I'm not sure what I'm doing back there yet. They are cheap enough for me to keep kicking around the garage.
Super: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282004
PM me if interested in anything, buy one of the two larger items, get all the rest free
I'm gonna rebuild my Carb, Clean the filter, Change the inner seals of my front diff, break pads, trim my rocksliders & fenders, & try to straighten my steering this weekend.
Anybody want pics?
I'm gonna hit the trails in Big Bear soon if you want to go.
Anybody want pics?
I'm gonna hit the trails in Big Bear soon if you want to go.
Everybody wants pics. Welcome to ck5. Lol
<~~~ this post is useless without pics.
<~~~ this post is useless without pics.
Awesome!
I rebuilt the carb. It pretty much took all day. I went slow and thoroughly cleaned everything.
A few red flags...
The needle & seat assembly that that work with the float . The ones in my carb (Thunder series) were spring loaded. I assume this keeps the float from flooding on steep angles.
The ones in the rebuild kit were solid. I reused my spring loaded ones.
The float measurement. The installation instruction said to set my float drop at 15/16". My float drop was set at 1 1/4". I bent the tap to set it 15/16" and when i was done it ran piss poor on the top end. I made the adjustments and got it as good as I could but it still didn't work right.
I took the top back off & put the float drop back to 1 1/4" and it ran better than ever.
I noticed as soon as I cranked it that it sounded different. More like a high performance engine. My test drive was epic.
Sorry no pics.
Today I need to decide if I am going to the Padres game or if I'm going to wrench.
Next up is the inner oil seal on my diff.
...The one Supermotard750 installed.
Just kidding, I had a hand in it too. 
I rebuilt the carb. It pretty much took all day. I went slow and thoroughly cleaned everything.
A few red flags...
The needle & seat assembly that that work with the float . The ones in my carb (Thunder series) were spring loaded. I assume this keeps the float from flooding on steep angles.
The ones in the rebuild kit were solid. I reused my spring loaded ones.
The float measurement. The installation instruction said to set my float drop at 15/16". My float drop was set at 1 1/4". I bent the tap to set it 15/16" and when i was done it ran piss poor on the top end. I made the adjustments and got it as good as I could but it still didn't work right.
I took the top back off & put the float drop back to 1 1/4" and it ran better than ever.
I noticed as soon as I cranked it that it sounded different. More like a high performance engine. My test drive was epic.
Sorry no pics.
Today I need to decide if I am going to the Padres game or if I'm going to wrench.
Next up is the inner oil seal on my diff.
...The one Supermotard750 installed.
Just kidding, I had a hand in it too.
Next up is the inner oil seal on my diff.
...The one Supermotard750 installed.
good luck
...
As you can see on the passenger side the rock slider is too close to my new tires.
Did some more work on the driver side today. Now there should be plenty of room.
I still need to make a inner fender panel. I started a template but then I got hungry...
What do ya think?
Did some more work on the driver side today. Now there should be plenty of room.
I still need to make a inner fender panel. I started a template but then I got hungry...
What do ya think?
Looks good Paul!
Opps!
Thanks Swetty,
Now that that's done I decide to rebuild my Carb.
Big mistake...
Here's some details.
I have an 650 cfm Edelbrock 1825 Thunder series carb.
I was at the parts store & on a whim bought a rebuild kit for a 1406 OR Thunder series carb.
All is well until I get to the needle seats. The replacements aren't spring loaded like the ones I took out.
I decided the ones I took out work fine so I re-used them.
They are spring loaded so it works better on bumpy and uneven surfaces.
-No biggie.
Then there's the spring that goes on the pump plunger assembly. I replaced it too. Maybe I shouldn't have...(foreshadowing)
The adjustment data was where I took a wrong turn, it had to be..
1) float level -7/16- ok
2) float drop the instructions recommend 15/16" - That's odd mine are set at +1.25" ...WTH?
3) Pump connector rod- Instructions- 'bend pump rod to obtain 17/32' - Me-Wow that's way off!
4) Secondary Throttle Valve opening- 'Secondary throttle valves should just start to open when there is 13/32" between Primary valve and bore of carb.To adjust bend rod until valves are 5* before vertical.' -
Me- Wow that's way off!
5)Secondary Throttle valve closing- 'With primary and secondary valves open there should be .040" clearence. To Adjust bend this bar-
Me- ok I think...
The rest of the adjustment are choke related and don't effect me.
Test fire & drive. Runs like crap. Make a bunch of adjustments and it runs ok around the house but has no top end on the road.
Get the picture yet?
I look up the 1406 carb & find out it's a 600 cfm. The 1825 is 650 cfm.
So all that bar bending to make these adjustments were all wrong because I used the wrong rebuild kit.
Now I don't remember the measurements from before I adjusted everything.
I got a few measurement from the inter-web like the float drop but not the other measurements where I had to bend bars.
So that's what I'm doing. Now I have to reverse engineer what I did.
Any advise is appreciated...
Thanks Swetty,
Now that that's done I decide to rebuild my Carb.
Big mistake...
Here's some details.
I have an 650 cfm Edelbrock 1825 Thunder series carb.
I was at the parts store & on a whim bought a rebuild kit for a 1406 OR Thunder series carb.
All is well until I get to the needle seats. The replacements aren't spring loaded like the ones I took out.
I decided the ones I took out work fine so I re-used them.
They are spring loaded so it works better on bumpy and uneven surfaces.
-No biggie.
Then there's the spring that goes on the pump plunger assembly. I replaced it too. Maybe I shouldn't have...(foreshadowing)
The adjustment data was where I took a wrong turn, it had to be..
1) float level -7/16- ok
2) float drop the instructions recommend 15/16" - That's odd mine are set at +1.25" ...WTH?
3) Pump connector rod- Instructions- 'bend pump rod to obtain 17/32' - Me-Wow that's way off!
4) Secondary Throttle Valve opening- 'Secondary throttle valves should just start to open when there is 13/32" between Primary valve and bore of carb.To adjust bend rod until valves are 5* before vertical.' -
Me- Wow that's way off!
5)Secondary Throttle valve closing- 'With primary and secondary valves open there should be .040" clearence. To Adjust bend this bar-
Me- ok I think...
The rest of the adjustment are choke related and don't effect me.
Test fire & drive. Runs like crap. Make a bunch of adjustments and it runs ok around the house but has no top end on the road.
Get the picture yet?
I look up the 1406 carb & find out it's a 600 cfm. The 1825 is 650 cfm.
So all that bar bending to make these adjustments were all wrong because I used the wrong rebuild kit.
Now I don't remember the measurements from before I adjusted everything.
I got a few measurement from the inter-web like the float drop but not the other measurements where I had to bend bars.
So that's what I'm doing. Now I have to reverse engineer what I did.
Any advise is appreciated...
I called the edelbrock tech guy & it went something like this
E- This is some guy at edelbrock can I help you?
Me- yea I just rebuilt 1825 my carb & it runs like crap. Did I use the wrong rebuild kit?
E- No, we only have 1 rebuilt kit, what's going on.
Me- I noticed your settings in the rebuild kit don't match the existing settings or what on the inter-web.
For example the float drop setting. It say's 15/16 but online it says 1.25. and mine was at 1.25.
E- I don't care what the float setting are at. That's not important.
Me- Ok, then the instructions say to bend this rod to adjust the secondary throttle but the recording that was playing while I was waiting for you to answer this call said something about an "easy" way to set the secondary throttle.
E- The recording said that?
Me- Yea, what's the easy way?
E- turn the screw above the airhorn.
Me- there is no screw there.
E- Hold on a second...
Me-
...end call.
OK, the carb is back on the table. The mounting plate that the carb sits on was black with soot. It was clean a few days ago.
Here we go...
Any advise?
Symptoms:
It runs good around the house but has no top end power. Me thinks secondary throttle settings...
E- This is some guy at edelbrock can I help you?
Me- yea I just rebuilt 1825 my carb & it runs like crap. Did I use the wrong rebuild kit?
E- No, we only have 1 rebuilt kit, what's going on.
Me- I noticed your settings in the rebuild kit don't match the existing settings or what on the inter-web.
For example the float drop setting. It say's 15/16 but online it says 1.25. and mine was at 1.25.
E- I don't care what the float setting are at. That's not important.
Me- Ok, then the instructions say to bend this rod to adjust the secondary throttle but the recording that was playing while I was waiting for you to answer this call said something about an "easy" way to set the secondary throttle.
E- The recording said that?
Me- Yea, what's the easy way?
E- turn the screw above the airhorn.
Me- there is no screw there.
E- Hold on a second...
Me-
...end call.
OK, the carb is back on the table. The mounting plate that the carb sits on was black with soot. It was clean a few days ago.
Here we go...
Any advise?
Symptoms:
It runs good around the house but has no top end power. Me thinks secondary throttle settings...
It turns out that spring I mentioned is a different size.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Q-jet and a $40 rebuild kit?
Otherwise, i got nuthin.
Otherwise, i got nuthin.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Just get a normal quadrajet and don't bend anything. It will still run good. What about emissions though? Don't you have to run a CA q-jet anyway? Or is the a green sticker truck or whatever?
Anyway I agree to use the stock quadrajet. Best carb out there for off road.
Anyway I agree to use the stock quadrajet. Best carb out there for off road.
