CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}

Soft top installation

Project soft top 016.jpg
I temporarily screwed the bars in place until the final fit. I later removed the little splice piece. It turns out my 100 measurements were correct.
I had a moment where I thought I was wrong but I was mistaken. :D



Project soft top 017.jpg
The other side.



Project soft top 018.jpg
Another pic of the frame.





Project soft top 019.jpg
I started to work the top starting one side, and working my way across to the other.






Project soft top 020.jpg
It's tight across the top front.

Project soft top 016.jpg

Project soft top 017.jpg

Project soft top 018.jpg

Project soft top 019.jpg

Project soft top 020.jpg
 
Soft top installation

Project soft top 021.jpg
I pulled it tight and put 1 screw in the center for meow.
Notice that little piece of tube is now gone at the mount.



Project soft top 022.jpg
Here it is.


Project soft top 023.jpg
I think the tubes might be about 1/2" too long.
This thing is tighter than dicks hatband.
I'll let it sit for a few days and then I need to replace the temp scres with nuts and bolts.

That's it for meow.


What do you think about my $40 soft top? :pimp:

Project soft top 021.jpg

Project soft top 022.jpg

Project soft top 023.jpg
 
F-ing sweet Paul! Nice score. Have you driven it yet or are you letting it settle down and stretch out before taking it down the freeway :D
 
Meow that's what I call a good hard top installation. :D

Why are we talking like cats btw? :confused: Did I miss something?
 
F-ing sweet Paul! Nice score. Have you driven it yet or are you letting it settle down and stretch out before taking it down the freeway :D

Yes, I'm letting it sit and stretch for a little while. I still need to put snaps on the tubes and replace the screws in the mount with a nut & bolt.







Meow that's what I call a good hard top installation. :D

Why are we talking like cats btw? :confused: Did I miss something?


There are a few goofy things I say as a joke like gear RATIONS and MEOW. :rolleyes:
 
Here are some pictures of my Softopper that might be useful for ideas for your tubing.


Thought you could use a strap to keep the tension bars in place if you don't want to use the bars off the cab to help taking it down for top-less days.





Softoppers have these straps to help keep the back tension.






That great work your doing, btw!
 
I agree. Meow that you have your top done, it's time to get your axles with the proper gear rations. Meow.
 
Thanks for posting those pics Heavylift.

I didn't realize there were so many ways to do the tubes.

I saw some like yours except the front tube went all the way down to the bed rail and the back tube attached to the front tube like yours.

I had a Scout II back in the day and it was like the way I did it except it had a pivoting piece at the bottom of the back tube that tightens it up as you pull it into position.

I have the perfect tension strap too. Thanks for pointing that out.:waytogo:
 
K25

Well the day finally came.

I went to the junkyard and yanked a 14BFF.

I got one with matching 3.73 gear rations. :rolleyes:



14 bolt 001.jpg
Here it is. Not too dirty for a Junkyard pull.



14 bolt 002.jpg

KERKER is the first to point out something is different.




14 bolt 003.jpg
The brake drums are smaller than the average 14BFF. It's about 14" sitting on the floor.




14 bolt 004.jpg
I think I can fit a 15" rim on here with no mods.





14 bolt 005.jpg
Yep it's about time.

14 bolt 001.jpg

14 bolt 002.jpg

14 bolt 003.jpg

14 bolt 004.jpg

14 bolt 005.jpg
 
I don't think there are 14bff's out of a 1973-1987 that you can't fit a 15 wheel on???

Martin
 
I don't think there are 14bff's out of a 1973-1987 that you can't fit a 15 wheel on???

Martin

I didn't think the 14 was the problem, usually the calipers on the 60 need a bunch of grinding for 15s.
 
Nice. Hopefully the drums aren't too ate up to where you can't just have them resurfaced on a lathe. Those suckers are heavy too. I think 14" drums were the standard.
 
Nice. Hopefully the drums aren't too ate up to where you can't just have them resurfaced on a lathe. Those suckers are heavy too. I think 14" drums were the standard.


The drums I usually see are huge, they must be 14".

These drums were 11" drums. They are in better shape than the ones I am driving on.

This axle came off A Cal-Trans truck. It was a '74 I think. The date on the axle is '73. Everything looks to be in good condition. All I need to do is clean, shave and paint it.

The 10 bolt was shaved, on 35's I have 10 1/2" ground clearance. That's the goal with the 14.

The diff cover has a coating on the inside and the gear oil smells new.


14 bolt 006.jpg

All painted yellow...

14 bolt 007.jpg

11" brake drum.

14 bolt 006.jpg

14 bolt 007.jpg
 
The drums I usually see are huge, they must be 14".

These drums were 11" drums. They are in better shape than the ones I am driving on.

This axle came off A Cal-Trans truck. It was a '74 I think. The date on the axle is '73. Everything looks to be in good condition. All I need to do is clean, shave and paint it.

The 10 bolt was shaved, on 35's I have 10 1/2" ground clearance. That's the goal with the 14.

The diff cover has a coating on the inside and the gear oil smells new.


View attachment 145483

All painted yellow...

View attachment 145484

11" brake drum.

FWIW I have 10.5 clearance on the jeep with my 14bolt and fake 37s
 
14 bolt shave layout

14 bolt.jpg

I marked in red where I was thinking about cutting.

It's 1" up from the bottom which would be flush to the flange on the backside. This is about center of the bottom hole.

14 bolt.jpg
 
I cant see your fancy uploaded pic.

This is were i cut. Basically right even with the bottom bolt, and then around the sides as well so it flows into it.



 
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