andyblack
Registered Loser
I see your shop assistant made the move with you.
CK5
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‘82 GMC “Junkyard JIMMY” {Build bash Rebuild}
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
I replaced it before the clocking ring. It's a TW 1350 CV and yoke. It has just enough angle in the joint to not bind.
My front axle is 1.5" forward though also, which helps with the angle.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
- Reaction score
- 1,043
I still have a killer kink in my neck and what feels like lockjaw from straining.
I can relate and feel your pain. And yes I'm still lurking around here. Louis say's whats up to Kirker
Nice to hear from you Chris.
After a long holiday break I made it back into the garage today. I did just the opposite of the big dogs, my work area was a mess but Instead of cleaning up I just dove right in and picked up where I left off.
First thing I did was remove my passenger seat. It was a pain in the arse because it's a big captains chair and has power sliders and lumbar and all that jazz. The reason it was such a pain was my batteries are dead. I had to slide the seat back to get the front bolts and forward to get to the rear bolts. With no power I hot wired the seat to an 18v Dewalt battery and it had enough juice to power the seat.
Now for today's pics:
This is about how much I thought I would need to cut out of the floor....
...but this is how much I actually needed to cut out of the floor since I have no body lift.
Here is a shot of my clearance meow. It turned out higher than I thought, which is a good thing. I plan to cover it with a new skid plate since my old one is folded in the shape of the bottom (now side) of a NP208.
I took a page out of MRK5's book and lifted my shifter 2". I am also moving it closer to the driver side so I can reach it better which allows the linkage to run straight from the lever to shifter with no funky bends or added tabs.
Remember this isn't a beauty contest and I'm not finished yet I am still test fitting things.
Here's a shot of the linkage. It shifts pretty good considering the Tcase is just sitting there in position and not completely bolted up yet.
Here's another shot from underneath. I was surprised to see my muffler still fits with no modifications.
I'm kind of feeling like I'm in over my head here but I like that feeling. I'm learning as I go and the results will prove to be worth the trouble when I get on the trail again.
My next concern is sealing up the unit so it doesn't leak. I shot some PM's out and K85 suggest welding the unused holes to prevent ATF from wearing out.
I called Kert and asked what he thought about me welding on the ring and he said don't do it. I Could warp the ring and I would have a hard time keeping it flat.
I got a sheet of gasket making material and will be making custom gaskets for the ring tomorrow. If all goes well I should have it mounted tomorrow....then I can move on to all the other tedious projects that recurred from clocking it up.
After a long holiday break I made it back into the garage today. I did just the opposite of the big dogs, my work area was a mess but Instead of cleaning up I just dove right in and picked up where I left off.
First thing I did was remove my passenger seat. It was a pain in the arse because it's a big captains chair and has power sliders and lumbar and all that jazz. The reason it was such a pain was my batteries are dead. I had to slide the seat back to get the front bolts and forward to get to the rear bolts. With no power I hot wired the seat to an 18v Dewalt battery and it had enough juice to power the seat.
Now for today's pics:
This is about how much I thought I would need to cut out of the floor....
...but this is how much I actually needed to cut out of the floor since I have no body lift.
Here is a shot of my clearance meow. It turned out higher than I thought, which is a good thing. I plan to cover it with a new skid plate since my old one is folded in the shape of the bottom (now side) of a NP208.
I took a page out of MRK5's book and lifted my shifter 2". I am also moving it closer to the driver side so I can reach it better which allows the linkage to run straight from the lever to shifter with no funky bends or added tabs.
Remember this isn't a beauty contest and I'm not finished yet I am still test fitting things.
Here's a shot of the linkage. It shifts pretty good considering the Tcase is just sitting there in position and not completely bolted up yet.
Here's another shot from underneath. I was surprised to see my muffler still fits with no modifications.
I'm kind of feeling like I'm in over my head here but I like that feeling. I'm learning as I go and the results will prove to be worth the trouble when I get on the trail again.
My next concern is sealing up the unit so it doesn't leak. I shot some PM's out and K85 suggest welding the unused holes to prevent ATF from wearing out.
I called Kert and asked what he thought about me welding on the ring and he said don't do it. I Could warp the ring and I would have a hard time keeping it flat.
I got a sheet of gasket making material and will be making custom gaskets for the ring tomorrow. If all goes well I should have it mounted tomorrow....then I can move on to all the other tedious projects that recurred from clocking it up.
wow that is alot of clearance 
Great work man.
How crazy is it going to make the front driveshaft angle though? With such a higher rear point for the joints?
Great work man.
How crazy is it going to make the front driveshaft angle though? With such a higher rear point for the joints?
The front driveshaft angle is going to be completely gonzo. I might have to call Tom Woods and also get some axle shims.
It's a snowball of modifications.
It's a snowball of modifications.
I'm an idiot
Learn from my mistakes. Look at the clocking ring bolt pattern in this pic...
I ordered the wrong ring and didn't notice until today.
This is a ring for a driver side drop Tcase. That means I didn't need to cut out as much of the floor as I did.
The new one is on it's way.
Boy do I feel dumb.
Learn from my mistakes. Look at the clocking ring bolt pattern in this pic...
I ordered the wrong ring and didn't notice until today.
This is a ring for a driver side drop Tcase. That means I didn't need to cut out as much of the floor as I did.
The new one is on it's way.
Boy do I feel dumb.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Kirker knew it was the wrong one. See the look on his face.
Don't do what I did
Well it's Monday again. Unlike most of you that have to go back to work, my full time job is working in the garage until school starts in Feb.
First I'd like to apologize for always doing things wrong the first time around. Please learn from my mistakes so you don't have to deal with them. Now that I got that off my chest let's see where I went wrong:
In the pic below is both options for the DIY4X clocking rings.
The ring on the left side (part number 00046P) is designed for a passenger drop T-case and the one on the right (part number 00046D) is for a driver drop T case. If you order a clocking ring be sure to drop the menu down and select the correct one. If you don't select one their default setting is the driver drop.
Today I am going to get this pig installed. I've never had the JIMMY down for so long and I don't like it. I can't sleep at night thinking about it.
No offense to the big dogs but I can't imagine having a build drag on for years.
Well it's Monday again. Unlike most of you that have to go back to work, my full time job is working in the garage until school starts in Feb.
First I'd like to apologize for always doing things wrong the first time around. Please learn from my mistakes so you don't have to deal with them. Now that I got that off my chest let's see where I went wrong:
In the pic below is both options for the DIY4X clocking rings.
The ring on the left side (part number 00046P) is designed for a passenger drop T-case and the one on the right (part number 00046D) is for a driver drop T case. If you order a clocking ring be sure to drop the menu down and select the correct one. If you don't select one their default setting is the driver drop.
Today I am going to get this pig installed. I've never had the JIMMY down for so long and I don't like it. I can't sleep at night thinking about it.
No offense to the big dogs but I can't imagine having a build drag on for years.
Here is an actual representation of what clearance you will gain from the clocking ring:
Position 1- stock location the bottom of the Tcase is about 5" below the bottom of the frame.
Position 2- this is the first available option on the ring. The bottom of Tcase is about 3" below the bottom of frame.
Position 3- this is the second available option on the ring. This locates the bottom of Tcase about 1.5" below the bottom of frame.
Position 1- stock location the bottom of the Tcase is about 5" below the bottom of the frame.
Position 2- this is the first available option on the ring. The bottom of Tcase is about 3" below the bottom of frame.
Position 3- this is the second available option on the ring. This locates the bottom of Tcase about 1.5" below the bottom of frame.
Support rid modification
I put the California Kink in my support rod, at the end I put a Texas Twist and it fits!
Moving along I have the shifter linkage hooked up, by the end of the day I should be able to drive it again.
I put the California Kink in my support rod, at the end I put a Texas Twist and it fits!
Moving along I have the shifter linkage hooked up, by the end of the day I should be able to drive it again.
lots of pictures please and what is your front lift?
and what is your front lift?
lots of pictures please
I'll post any pics you want.
I used to have a 2 1/2" lift but when I went High steer & hydro assist I needed more clearence from the engine X member.
Now I have a 4" lift in the front. It's Part #C140S from Summit.
I think it's Softride brand, I'm not sure.
andyblack
Registered Loser
How did you manage to bend that support rod? I hate those things.
linkage mods, floor cut, and the plan for your front shaft please 
Brute strength.
I put a piece of 2 1/2" x .250 wall square tube in the vise, put the rod in there so the mark was on the edge and bent that sumbitch into shape.
andyblack
Registered Loser
[emoji41]
linkage mods, floor cut, and the plan for your front shaft please
In chronological order:
At first I started to hammer the floor into position but it didn't take long to realize I needed to break out the cut off wheel.
At this point I was hoping I could keep The keeper nut in place for my seat mount....
This is the current cut which gives me the clearance I need to fully stuff the Tcase.. I had to cut off the keeper nut and I will soon have to figure out how to mount the seat.
Linkage modifications:
I took a tip from MRK5 and raised my entire shifter assembly 2" using some scrap Z metal I had laying around. I also angled the shifter a little towards the driver which makes it easier to reach and gives a smoother shift.
I know it's ugly right now, I'm not done yet.
In this pic you can see the shifter sits level. I didn't extend or bend the linkage at all. I only adjusted it to function properly.
End of the day:
I got the Tcase mounted, mufflers are back in, E brakes and driveshaft hooked up, support rod in place too.
Front Driveshaft plan: I test fit the driveshaft and it's going to be too short. Since I have 2 spare shafts I plan to sacrifice one and make 2 custom shafts. The new shafts will be a little longer and I will grind off the U joint stops.
This will be a trail only rig and I don't drive fast in 4WD. If (when) one shaft fails I will have a spare. The spare will get me off the trail and later I can call Tom Woods and get a high angle shaft.
It's beer O'clock and I'm thirsty. More to come tomorrow....
[Edit: wow those pics were blurry! must have gotten some tranny fluid on my lens]
Last edited:
shifter box:
:
I started to work some metal magic for my 2" shifter box.
Here's what I have so far:
I cut some more Z metal the same size as my shifter base.
When it's all put together the idea is that it looks like it supposed to be there.
I'm going to paint it black and roll it with a thick coat of Herculiner.
:
I started to work some metal magic for my 2" shifter box.
Here's what I have so far:
I cut some more Z metal the same size as my shifter base.
When it's all put together the idea is that it looks like it supposed to be there.
I'm going to paint it black and roll it with a thick coat of Herculiner.
