CK5
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‘86 K30 Crew- From Sierra to Silverado, & a Cummins

Got everything ripped out today, lots easier without the trans hanging off the back. It's also easy when it doesn't have to go back together and you can be a little destructive. Pulled the 12 valve from it's Dodge cocoon

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Dropped the trans first, though, really getting a hang for the second gens. Got all the parts assembled for my buddy who's taking the trans, should be the last piece for his '79 Ford highboy swap. I'd be pretty envious if I didn't already have an NV500 on the shop floor

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Got a little Cummins corner going on, gotta start loosing some, rather than gaining. Don't have the room to hoard at this point, haha

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Finally got some time to start ripping some things apart on the engine in preparation to do a re seal on it. Unfortunately I can't stay on track so I'm pulling it down simultaneously with the '93 engine I have for my Landcruiser, so there's parts everywhere in the shop
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But I did load the stripped engine onto the back of the truck and took it down to the local car wash, got a lot of the grime sprayed off. I want to paint it after it's been sealed, so it's gotta be clean

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And finally rearranged the Cummins corner to make everything a little more accessible

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If only I could stay focused on one project, it would probably get done a lot quicker, haha. As of now, I have that '93 engine and an NV4500 in need of a rebuild for my '97 Landcruiser, but I also want to get this swap done for the K30. May come down to flipping a coin, haha. Not enough time in the day
 
Finally got some time to start ripping some things apart on the engine in preparation to do a re seal on it. Unfortunately I can't stay on track so I'm pulling it down simultaneously with the '93 engine I have for my Landcruiser, so there's parts everywhere in the shop
View attachment 382073

But I did load the stripped engine onto the back of the truck and took it down to the local car wash, got a lot of the grime sprayed off. I want to paint it after it's been sealed, so it's gotta be clean

View attachment 382074


And finally rearranged the Cummins corner to make everything a little more accessible

View attachment 382075

If only I could stay focused on one project, it would probably get done a lot quicker, haha. As of now, I have that '93 engine and an NV4500 in need of a rebuild for my '97 Landcruiser, but I also want to get this swap done for the K30. May come down to flipping a coin, haha. Not enough time in the day
Story of my life.
I have ongoing now and 2 more that I need to do
 
Had a weekend free after being away for work for 3 months, picked up some body panels. A semi local fella was scrapping a truck that happened to be the same colour as mine, so I went and grabbed some things. The box side has some rust and isn't as nice as the blue one, but the colour is the same, and I can hide the rust with flares, as I'm putting off body work for as long as possible, haha

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Got a matching tailgate shell that hopefully aligns better than the pre 80 one I have on now

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And I grabbed the truck cap also, so I can keep the snow out of the back and store some parts back there over the winter

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Other than that, I'm still waiting on my injection pump. The pump shop has had it for 3 months already, but it was an incomplete pump and I've had to track down some small and discontinued parts for it. I gave them a set of 191 delivery valves and 3k governor springs, and once I have it back I'll be adding a rack plug as well before I swap it onto the engine. It's a 215 pump to start, so it should be pretty powerful right out of the gate. Will probably be ordering the Agan fabworks engine mount and corssmember in the near future here, too
 
5k springs.
Kermit The Frog Meme GIF by Identity
 
181’s, 4K springs, and a 10 plate with a modded AFC. That’s more than enough mods to crank out 6-700hp. I’d skip the 370 marine injectors and go for a solid set of aftermarket injectors. A 35/3b twin combo. 20* of timing. ARP studs. Damn it I need to buy a 12v.
 
181’s, 4K springs, and a 10 plate with a modded AFC. That’s more than enough mods to crank out 6-700hp. I’d skip the 370 marine injectors and go for a solid set of aftermarket injectors. A 35/3b twin combo. 20* of timing. ARP studs. Damn it I need to buy a 12v.

Modify 1 or 2 items in that list and you have a dream build of mine, haha. I actually have a 3b on the shelf, was thinking it would make a wicked pairing with a 351 on top. But something like that would be going in my W350, I'm really only after around 400 horse for this truck. Thinking back, I did hand them all the springs for the 4k set I had laying around, so it's likely that they'll make it in. I've been driving my W350 for several years, and I usually shift around 2000 rpm. Maybe reaching out to 2400 for a particularly fast highway merge, or towing a heavy trailer. So spinning past 3 k, especially to 4 k is a wild concept to me, haha
 
It was weird for me to. I p-pumped my 24v and seeing the tach hit 4K was unnerving at first. But the sound that single 472 turbo made at 4K was deeply intoxicating.
 
Picked up the pump from the shop today, it's been there over 4 months. Apparently their flow bench broke the first time they tried to turn it, haha. It's tuned up for some power now. Now I can finally start to take the engine apart, swap pumps, and do the re-seal

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Got some work done today towards the swap. Been off work for a few weeks, and have been dedicating a ton of time to my daily, the W350. Took the time to get cruise control working, was a lot of poking around with the multi meter. But it works, and has really motivated me to ensure that the cruise function carries over on the K30 swap, too

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Easiest thing to do right now while the weather is still warmer is to reseal the engine. Took the vacuum and power steering pump off some time ago, but decided to tackle the injection pump today. Pinned it to 0' timing, and using my makeshift timing gear puller, popped the gear off. It's simply a steering wheel puller with 2 metric bolts from the engine's own intake horn. I'll avoid spending money on tools at all costs, haha

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The inner 2 nuts on the inline pump can be a real bear, was able to get one with a ratchet wrench, the other needed some things moved and an extreme swivel

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This pump was coming off anyway to be replaced with my rebuilt one, but even if it wasn't being replaced, it would have to come off to get at the tappet cover seals. These always leak, and the sound damper cover kinda just falls away. So I have the seal in the kit for the cover, but not the damper. There's all kinds of aftermarket stuff available, may have to have a look

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Once it's down cleaned and sealed up, I'll have to take it all to my buddy's shop for paint, cause I don't have heat, and the minus 30 days are coming like a hot damn. I also need to pull the cam at some point, I'm going to send it off to Colt cams to try out their stage 3. May hold off on that, as they're on the coast, and have a lot of water to deal with, I'm sure.

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There are the pumps, out with the old, in with the new!
 
Was able to tear into the engine pretty good today. Got it in to the heated shop, tore into mine while helping him reassemble his. Was pretty pleased to get the exhaust manifold off without breaking any bolts, always a win. Pulled off the adaptor plate, exhaust manifold, A/C mount and lower water inlet, and the oil cooler. Started to clean up the block with a brass wire wheel, in preparation for paint. Going the classic beige and black on this one.



Separated the oil cooler, and was surprised with how clean it was in the water jacket. Usually its all brown and rusty with flakes laying in there, this was by far the cleanest engine I've ever torn in to



More stripping of components for cleaning and re seal the rest of this week. Also need to decide how far I want to go in to this. The cam will be coming out, so the front gear case can come off. Unsure about the head, I'm kinda leaning towards headstuds, and just doing the head gasket while I'm in there. Not too sure if my goals justify headstuds, though. I'll also have to decide on how I'm going to mount the AC compressor. I'm not cutting the frame, and I cant find the stock Cummins mount plate for mid mounting the AC, so I'm leaning towards the kit from Adventure Vehicles NW. It's pricey with the dollar conversion, but its the best option I can see. It moves the compressor above the water inlet, and the alternator on top of that.

The other issue I'm trying to resolve is getting rid of the vacuum pump on the engine. The truck has hydroboost, and I can run the Hvac and cruise (if cruise in these is vacuum, not sure) off of an electric pump. This would make it a little sleeker under the hood, and eliminate a very annoying leak point. Trouble is, there's very few parts around anymore to direct mount the power steering pump to the timing case. For those following along who don't really know 12 valves, the power steering pump is driven directly by the vacuum pump, which is gear driven off the cam. I could get a medium duty pump with a remote reservoir, but those usually run higher pressures than automotive ones. Still in the air on that one
 
Was able to tear into the engine pretty good today. Got it in to the heated shop, tore into mine while helping him reassemble his. Was pretty pleased to get the exhaust manifold off without breaking any bolts, always a win. Pulled off the adaptor plate, exhaust manifold, A/C mount and lower water inlet, and the oil cooler. Started to clean up the block with a brass wire wheel, in preparation for paint. Going the classic beige and black on this one.



Separated the oil cooler, and was surprised with how clean it was in the water jacket. Usually its all brown and rusty with flakes laying in there, this was by far the cleanest engine I've ever torn in to



More stripping of components for cleaning and re seal the rest of this week. Also need to decide how far I want to go in to this. The cam will be coming out, so the front gear case can come off. Unsure about the head, I'm kinda leaning towards headstuds, and just doing the head gasket while I'm in there. Not too sure if my goals justify headstuds, though. I'll also have to decide on how I'm going to mount the AC compressor. I'm not cutting the frame, and I cant find the stock Cummins mount plate for mid mounting the AC, so I'm leaning towards the kit from Adventure Vehicles NW. It's pricey with the dollar conversion, but its the best option I can see. It moves the compressor above the water inlet, and the alternator on top of that.

The other issue I'm trying to resolve is getting rid of the vacuum pump on the engine. The truck has hydroboost, and I can run the Hvac and cruise (if cruise in these is vacuum, not sure) off of an electric pump. This would make it a little sleeker under the hood, and eliminate a very annoying leak point. Trouble is, there's very few parts around anymore to direct mount the power steering pump to the timing case. For those following along who don't really know 12 valves, the power steering pump is driven directly by the vacuum pump, which is gear driven off the cam. I could get a medium duty pump with a remote reservoir, but those usually run higher pressures than automotive ones. Still in the air on that one
I did the vacuum pump seal on my daughters 24 valve… good times!
Month later I needed to change the cam sensor…. Oh that would have been nice to do at the same time as the pump seal. Then the tappet cover needed to be re sealed! Holly Fock! I use the proper puller to get the injection pump gear and it came off like a 30odd6 went off in your ear. I don’t think that steering wheel puller would have worked for me…
 
I’d do headstuds. Just pull one bolt at a time and replace with a stud. No need to redo the head gasket. Cheap insurance. I was running 60psi and water meth on just studs for a 100k miles with no issues.

The vac pump seal isn’t that bad to do. Hardest part is getting the dang rotor lined up when you stick it back in.
 
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