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“Dylan’s” 89. Back at it!

89 Jimmy 6.0/4l80e/MAGNUM 205/d60/14bolt
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Dang it, I'm an impatient procrastinator! (stomping foot)

I ordered one of those paint guns like you bought, on back order until 01/09 but that's ok.
 
Yeah. Mine too. Wish I had it now but i didn’t expect to want to get to work so fast. I’m jumping into some of the prep now. Just filling in some sheet metal screw holes and treating some rusty spot. Might start stripping some panels this week and hope they don’t rust over too fast. I got another week off at the end of Feb and planning to knock it out that week.
 
I have an old 60 gal "Puma" brand, not sure who actually made it but it's always been great.

I'm planning to use some Eastwood paint (midnight blue). If I read the info correct it said to use 8-10 psi, I wasn't expecting that low. I figured it would be similar to my bed liner kit which is 40-60 psi.
 
I think I got everything I should need ordered. Except for base and clear. The paint shop here has some “commercial” grade stuff that is supposedly stronger yet cheaper than the typical body shop stuff. :thinking::dunno:

Does anyone know how to get the back glass out of the tailgate? I only need it out to get that rear trim piece off.

Also Harbor freight has a garage tent, 20x10, that I’m thinking of picking up for a “paint booth”. It’s $200 but I think I might have another use for it after it’s paint booth duties are done. What do y’all think?
 
That stripper works pretty good. What paint that is left is pretty brittle so it should come off pretty easy when sanding. Of course I picked a dreary rainy day to strip paint. Hope I can keep it from rusting too quick.

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Wow! Do you have to treat / clean the metal to neutralize the stripper before primer?
 
Yeah, I believe you’re supposed to use water :eek:. But I haven’t done that yet. I have a lot of sanding and cleaning to do still. One video I watched said to wash your bare metal parts with dish soap and water, then solvents before spraying the epoxy :thinking:. That just seems weird to me.

I’m just chipping away at it. Did these this morning in about 2.5 hours. Done for the day.
 
@nvrenuf I messaged Ryoken to get a professional opinion. He said to be careful about getting the stripper into any cracks or seams cause it can come back to screw you. Just use on large areas. And to “neutralize” use a warm soapy water DAMP rag, or laquer thinner, then sand, then denatured alcohol
 
Seriously considering converting this thing to full manual locks and windows. F’ing wires complicating shit. Took almost 2 hours to get a door off :flipoff1:
 
chris85 said:
Seriously considering converting this thing to full manual locks and windows. F’ing wires complicating shit. Took almost 2 hours to get a door off :flipoff1:
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Whats wrong with manual? Are you discriminating against First Gens?
 
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No, I’m mean converting the power windows and power locks over to manual. Less wiring BS

My Jeeps manual windows and locks and I really don’t mind it at all.....I think I’m staring to talk myself into it
 
What?? :dunno:

I converted my 91 doors to all manual (but kept the mirrors), easy job.
 
nvrenuf said:
Soft top + truck tailgate = problem solved.
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I was referring to this from the tailgate latch thread, Haha! And I know your running tube doors.


The more I think about it the more I want to do it. It would just be simpler. Where does the window handle line up on the door panel? Those really aren’t expensive for all new replacements but :dunno:. Don’t know if I want to go that far with it. I would wind up replacing the whole interior.
 
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