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03 gmc duramax with 350k (BBT) transmission fun

I talked to someone at a GM dealer yesterday about the steering issue and he said that likely there is nothing "wrong" with it. Steering was always tough on these trucks at low rpms. :(

Thats got me wondering about possibly getting a smaller pulley to keep the steering pump spinning faster. Anybody ever tried that?
 
I wonder if you can do the texas mod like the older pumps? I needed to do that on my old truggy, but now i'm going to a smaller tire on the new k5 build so it shouldn't matter.
 
My lb7 never over heated, Dmax typically have problems building heat when one of the t stats fails to close. Check your coolant level, the water pumps are popular sources for leaks.

As far as the steering, they are heavy at idle while the brakes are on, it should still be assisted of course, you have to put two hands and muscle it id look at the steering box, does it make a grown as well?
 
jekquistk5 said:
I wonder if you can do the texas mod like the older pumps? I needed to do that on my old truggy, but now i'm going to a smaller tire on the new k5 build so it shouldn't matter.
Click to expand...
Whats a "texas mod"?

ClassicStyle said:
My lb7 never over heated, Dmax typically have problems building heat when one of the t stats fails to close. Check your coolant level, the water pumps are popular sources for leaks.

As far as the steering, they are heavy at idle while the brakes are on, it should still be assisted of course, you have to put two hands and muscle it id look at the steering box, does it make a grown as well?
Click to expand...
I think the overheating was due to a collapsed upper radiator hose. I haven't had a chance to test it on any big hills since I replaced it though.

As to the steering, I do have to muscle it occasionally with the brakes on and at idle. I really hope it isn't the steering box. I did read in the maintainance history that it was replaced a couple of years ago.

Once the idle comes up it seems fine though, which is why I was considering a smaller pulley.
 
Interesting, it sounds pretty normal but without feeling it it's hard to say, if lean more toward the box then the hydro boost. Both are expensive, the last hyrdo I bought was 640$ or so my cost and the steering box was 920ish
 
doing a little maintenance on the truck. I went to get it aligned and it needed new tie rod ends. I got those replaced and then took it back.
Unfortunately they still couldn't align it. :( Evidently the tie rod ends need to come in further, but the outers bottom out on the inner tie rods. The tech suspects that it has something to do with the lift. :dunno:

At any rate, how do I solve this? Would it be stupid to just cut an inch off of the inner tie rods so that they wouldn't bottom out so soon? Is there some other way to solve it?
 
I think I may have just figured out the problem. The tie rod ends are installed upside down I think! If anyone else has a 2003 or there abouts GMC or chevy do me a favor and check your tie rod ends. Are they installed from the bottom up, or from the top down? Mine are from the top down and the few pics I've found online has them the other way. They would definitely need to be longer to reach the bottom side, which would solve my problem...
 
We've got an 03 3/4 ton 4x4 GMC at work, if I can catch it when it's not on the go I can try to get a picture tomorrow.
 
Ahhh, shouldn't there be a taper to dictate which way??
(For the ends to go into)
 
6872xtc said:
Ahhh, shouldn't there be a taper to dictate which way??
(For the ends to go into)
Click to expand...

You'd think so, but the tie rod end doesn't seat all the way through, only maybe an inch in. I think it may be tapered both ways?
 
I just realized that a guy down the road has the same truck, so I went and looked at his. His is installed top down as well, but his inner tie rods are much shorter than mine. I think maybe someone installed the wrong inners as some point. Going to look into that after dinner...
 
I've seen on a lifted half ton have the same issue. Inner bottoms out before its in adjustment. I'd cut a half inch off the inner and align it
 
some of the gm ifs lifts require inner tie rod trim down to let the outer come in more for full alignment .

this is because of the different position of the outer tie rod end at the knuckle with the lift or raised knuckle depending on the brand of lift.

some kits say 1/3" or 1/2" . . . I have never had a kit be the same spec cut off on the next truck each has its own sweet spot.

I have a guy do my alignments now since I don't work in shops anymore . he knows if I send him a gm lifted truck they will be cut down but also might have to trim them a hair more .

also if you know the brand of lift kit check there web site for alignment specs . . . lots of them are different than factory gm spec after a lift.
 
After seeing how much shorter my neighbor's tie rod was, I decided to go get a new inner and compare it to what I have. The new inner appears to be at least an inch shorter than what is on there now. :dunno:
Don't know where the current ones came from but I guess that is where the problem is. I'll know for sure when I pull it apart tomorrow.
 
ashman said:
After seeing how much shorter my neighbor's tie rod was, I decided to go get a new inner and compare it to what I have. The new inner appears to be at least an inch shorter than what is on there now. :dunno:
Don't know where the current ones came from but I guess that is where the problem is. I'll know for sure when I pull it apart tomorrow.
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I would highly suggest getting the contigo inners and outlets if you are going new.
 
crazy thing is these trucks use the same basic size parts for tie rods as a rack and pinion system on a car . . . :yikes:

combined with 4x4 X pot holes X big tires X off road = just buy the beefy stuff like said above . :deal:
 
jekquistk5 said:
I would highly suggest getting the contigo inners and outlets if you are going new.
Click to expand...
got a link? Unless you're talking about travel mugs, nothing came up in google. :D

For what it's worth, I did a little digging this morning trying to figure out how I ended up with too-long inner tie rod ends and I still can't figure it out. I looked up every version of my truck I could think of (1500, 3500, 2wd, etc) and all used the same part number. :dunno: Obviously it doesn't really matter at this point, but I'm curious to figure out how I ended up with the wrong ones.

At this point I'm going to replace the tie rod ends with cheap stuff just to get it back on the road. I may upgrade at some later date, but this is my tow rig. It's not going to see any off road time, so it probably doesn't need any extra beef.
 
ashman said:
got a link? Unless you're talking about travel mugs, nothing came up in google. :D

For what it's worth, I did a little digging this morning trying to figure out how I ended up with too-long inner tie rod ends and I still can't figure it out. I looked up every version of my truck I could think of (1500, 3500, 2wd, etc) and all used the same part number. :dunno: Obviously it doesn't really matter at this point, but I'm curious to figure out how I ended up with the wrong ones.

At this point I'm going to replace the tie rod ends with cheap stuff just to get it back on the road. I may upgrade at some later date, but this is my tow rig. It's not going to see any off road time, so it probably doesn't need any extra beef.
Click to expand...


There is tons of aftermarket tie rods for these. Unless you want to race or launch it in 4x4 stockers should be just fine. Sleeves would be a good upgrade though....but check these out!

http://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&product_id=289

Beef!
 
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