79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
Holy blast from the past.
CK5
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14SF "tech" info
- Thread starter dyeager535
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- journey sucks semi float
I dont like the elocker because you cant engage it while moving. Or arent supposed to anyway. I wonder if the new eaton hydraulic locker is the replacement? I havent checked to see what axles it is for.
I think they say under 10mph or whatever, but basically you just want the wheels to be going the same speed. Some slight movement in the diff is required to lock/unlock (so the pins line up with the holes). The H2 is wired/programmed to only engage at low speed in low range, so I figure the locking parts are nearly brand new. Every H2 I see is going over the speed limit.
All H2's had e-lockers in the rear?
I've searched for the answer to that question. So far I haven't found any without e-locker and 4:10 ratio.
Here's what's different from the standard 80's/90's 9.5". There is a protrusion for the wire grommet and they have special bearing caps.
Here's what's different from the standard 80's/90's 9.5". There is a protrusion for the wire grommet and they have special bearing caps.
Also, note the gasket shown in my picture above. This is a re-useable type rubber over metal core, still available as AC Delco 12479143. This is nice since there is no Lube Locker available for this axle (actually, this gasket is probably WHY there is no Lube Locker available).
Nice, I'll be ordering one for dad's suburban, thanks for heads up!
On to the install, here are the bearing caps. Square nose Sub on the left, H2 on the right. All have the same 8224 number cast into them, but the castings don't look quite identical. Looks like you could use two "Right" caps from the old style axle and make your own retainer. Or you could drill and tap the blank one.
The old axle doesn't have the flat boss for the wire grommet, but there's still room to route it.
The old axle doesn't have the flat boss for the wire grommet, but there's still room to route it.
Re: the hybrid axle I referred to above.
I'm going from memory here, so.....
The RPO code is AXN. This is the GMT 900 series. Basically its a light duty 14 bsf. It uses 10 bolt wheel bearings, seals, and brakes. IMO this one should be avoided.
As for axle lengths you can fan a spacer to move the brake backing plate out 1/2" if required. I'm not sure, maybe swapping backing plates will work.
There's a lot of good info in the link I posted above
I had a pic of the spacer specs, can't find it in my tablet at the moment.
I'm going from memory here, so.....
The RPO code is AXN. This is the GMT 900 series. Basically its a light duty 14 bsf. It uses 10 bolt wheel bearings, seals, and brakes. IMO this one should be avoided.
As for axle lengths you can fan a spacer to move the brake backing plate out 1/2" if required. I'm not sure, maybe swapping backing plates will work.
There's a lot of good info in the link I posted above
I had a pic of the spacer specs, can't find it in my tablet at the moment.
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I thought the AXN 14bsf came in GMT900 trucks and SUVs with the 6.2L? And as far as I understand it's also the only 6 lug 14bsf to come with rear disks? I have the AXN rpo code in my '12 1500 with the 6.2. Did they use the code on earlier trucks too?
You are correct.....my mistake. Fixed it.
From another site:
"Ok, I spent some time today inspecting a 2006 SS 14 bolt 9.5 SF. This is also referred to by the RPO code AXN.
Here are the measurements and pictures.
06 SS NBS housing measurements are:
68.5 inches WMS-WMS. That's outside to outside of drums.
Leaf Spring Pads are 49 inches on center.
Shock brackets are 32.5 inches on center.
Wheelside of axle flange to mounting face of brake bracket is 2.875 inches.
Brake flanges are 1 inch thick but machined down to have a register to center the Drum brake backing plate.
The actual tubes measure 3.105 od. up until they meet the housing.
On the brake/bearing side the tubes measured 3.060 od.
At the center housing the tubes flare out and measured 3.221 od.
Axle shafts the best I can measure are 33-9/16 inches overall length with the same 33 Spline.
The Hat diameter has the same OD. as the 10 bolt 8.625 axles.
Bearing Journal Diameter is 1.622
The AXN hybrid 14 bolt housing uses the same axle bearings and seals from the 10 bolt 8.625 rear end.
I am not 100% sure but it almost looks like they used 10 Bolt Housing tubes and swedge them out at the housing end to fit the Housing.
the more detailed info is in here...clicky
From another site:
"Ok, I spent some time today inspecting a 2006 SS 14 bolt 9.5 SF. This is also referred to by the RPO code AXN.
Here are the measurements and pictures.
06 SS NBS housing measurements are:
68.5 inches WMS-WMS. That's outside to outside of drums.
Leaf Spring Pads are 49 inches on center.
Shock brackets are 32.5 inches on center.
Wheelside of axle flange to mounting face of brake bracket is 2.875 inches.
Brake flanges are 1 inch thick but machined down to have a register to center the Drum brake backing plate.
The actual tubes measure 3.105 od. up until they meet the housing.
On the brake/bearing side the tubes measured 3.060 od.
At the center housing the tubes flare out and measured 3.221 od.
Axle shafts the best I can measure are 33-9/16 inches overall length with the same 33 Spline.
The Hat diameter has the same OD. as the 10 bolt 8.625 axles.
Bearing Journal Diameter is 1.622
The AXN hybrid 14 bolt housing uses the same axle bearings and seals from the 10 bolt 8.625 rear end.
I am not 100% sure but it almost looks like they used 10 Bolt Housing tubes and swedge them out at the housing end to fit the Housing.
the more detailed info is in here...clicky
another thread is going with H2 locker questions... followed a link here.
"Once a wheel has been used with 14MM lugs/bolts, you can't use it on the stock 1/2 ton lugs."
that was from the 2nd post on page one...
WHat?? why is that exactly? I have stock steel rallie wheels on stock 10 bolt front, and SF14 with the 14mm studs... dont think I've ever noticed a problem. no the lug nuts cant be shared between the 2 axles, but why would using the wheel on the rear make it so it cannot be used on the front?
"Once a wheel has been used with 14MM lugs/bolts, you can't use it on the stock 1/2 ton lugs."
that was from the 2nd post on page one...
WHat?? why is that exactly? I have stock steel rallie wheels on stock 10 bolt front, and SF14 with the 14mm studs... dont think I've ever noticed a problem. no the lug nuts cant be shared between the 2 axles, but why would using the wheel on the rear make it so it cannot be used on the front?
My take on reading that was that the larger lug nuts were more of a pinch fit than seated taper without drilling, and drilling may not allow the smaller lug nut tapers to seat and tighten before bottoming out?
hmmm the steel 8x10 rally style wheels (i assumed were stock gm but who knows) -they have 45,000 miles on them and have been jumped, flat tired, rotated positions, and on/off a million times. I've never noticed a problem. cant remember if the fronts end up being hub centric on the 4x4 hub, but im pretty sure the backs do not on the SF14, and center when the lugs are tightened
15x8 rallys are definitely not hub centric, front or rear. Nor is any GM wheel of the era.
okie dokie. i guess more accurately, they center hole fits snuggly on the hub. probably just a coincidence or maybe i haven't taken a tire of of that thing in a while!
at one point i remember comparing the two types of lug nuts im using, and the taper didn't seem to be much different (or at all). Roger that on the different sized holes possibly having different snugged/ seating depths... but at least the wheels im using have the stamped dome/bubble shape for each tapered lug hole. ive never seen any damage to the taper, or the wheels.
I swapped the 14mm studs to 1/2 in using studs for 03-04 wrangler tj
That makes them 13mm and for me, at least, work better with my stock rally's
That makes them 13mm and for me, at least, work better with my stock rally's
Even the 1/2" studs I swapped to seem to loosen up a bit on the stock rallies, and it sure seems to look like the lug nuts arent getting a real good taper fit on the rim. Only took off one wheel (odd, probably chinesium issue with the brass of the valve stem breaking off with the valve stem cap), but one of the holes had a sliver of steel where I assume the lug nut took some material off. I was changing a tire in the snow so didn't have a ton of time to examine the cause in depth. But checking the other wheels, lugs were definitely loose compared to what I had torqued them to before.
You'd probably see any mismatch in taper by rust forming where the old 7/16" lug nuts used to make contact.
You'd probably see any mismatch in taper by rust forming where the old 7/16" lug nuts used to make contact.
this thread was just brought up again - so much good info on the 14SF!!
as to the lug nut debate on the 7/16 vs 14mm. I am STILL running the same rally wheels and have moved them back and forth between the 7/16 and 14mm... maybe its time to look into this more closely and get some photos posted up. something like 65,000 miles of abuse and I've been running them for well over 10 years? (and they were well used and probably original wheels from the 1980s when I got them!)
I also do not understand the drop from 14mm to 1/2inch studs? how can that possibly work when the flange on the axle is already punched out for a 14mm?? dropping DOWN in stud size to something with a looser tolerance surely cannot be a good idea? or is there something about the fitment on the flange that makes this work?
