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1964 Nova Wagon “Plank”

Nova
Overview Gallery Discussion
Replaced the radiator with a $162 eBay special. No leaks yet, better than 1 of my Griffin rads. If no leaks for the next year, better than all 3 of my Griffin rads. It's actually a real nice piece, good fit and finish.

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Yanked out my leaky assist steering stuff. Ram and lines off the valve. Regretting that now, not because the added effort but because it wonders and darts around some with poor roads. That sucks. Drive it like that for now till after the holidays (I hope)


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Been wanting to get a calendar pic but it hasn't been decently clear till now :(

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Sticking with drivability and safety. Proof of concept 3rd Brake Light. No holes drilled, nothing permanent but will stay till the car gets overhauled.

What I need is some kind of one way wire thing. Not sure if that's called a diode but need some help with that. If I just wire it up, the light will blink with whatever turn signal I tap into. The brake light will work buuuuut goofy. So I'd rather just wire it up to blink for both turn signals and constant for brakes. That will need something inline to keep one blinker from feeding the other. What should I look for?

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Well, I thought it would be neat but these two cheap shit eBay fans vibrated the entire car when I went for a drive. Had new noises, even the tailgate. Now I know what it's like to sit inside a palm sander. $42 wasted, dammit

ZZZZzzzzzZZZZZzzzzzzZZZZZZzzzzzzZZZZZ OMG
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I'm going to share this here. Kinda proud of myself at the moment dammit. I posted over at Stevesnovasite, I've posted many things, but that site sucks. I'm from the "Built, Not Bought" crowd and I like sharing my stupid shit.

There seems to be one answer to removing the PS system from a Nova...junk most of it and replace with all the manual linkages. I posed the question "why can't I just remove the pump and run it dry"?

Well I ended up answering my own question. (That was the control valve on the linkage needs fluid pressure to stay centered. Movement of the pitman arm is how the control valve moves fluid to the hydrolic ram. With no pressure in the valve, it's sloppy) But still, the car drives straight, why replace everything? So, I gutted the valve and only left the ball stud and both cups. I made a quick and dirty spacer out of some pipe I had. 1.75" plus I used a hardened washer about .0625 against the ball stud cup. Reassembled with what ended up feeling like the perfect preload and took it for a drive. Feels great. Zero slop. Did it feel better with PS? Yes, but I didn't feel like spending money to rebuild a system I don't want just to keep it from leaking.

Got it done cheap/free, good results, and I'm back on the road :D
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That is the scrap pipe, didn't use that half :) If I had access to a Lethe, making a collar to fit exactly would be awesome.
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I needed to pull the wheel off to work on the blinkers, but knew I should play with the valve first. Good thing I did :)
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Also
Valve exploded view
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Lastly, I don't know what forum platform software they use over there but it is so annoying. CK5 is awesome :D
 
Are you confident in your fix? It is your steering.

I think most manual systems have a different ratio than the power steering to make it a little easier to turn. But if it works and you are confident it's a safe solid repair nice work.
 
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The ball stud is captured, so it's no different/more dangerous than the last 500 miles I've been driving without a PS pump. (Except it's tight now and not loose) I was confident enough to try :waytogo:

Also, oddly enough cause I understand your point, is these cars all came with "manual" boxes but had PS stuff added all around. So my box is a manual ratio, 19.5 turns assisted lock to lock LOL :doah::haha:
 
So when my dad ordered his ‘65 impala new he did do without power steering. He was used to it in his ‘57 and figured why bother and not order the option. One week into driving the Impala he realized that was a mistake. He ordered the accessory kit with a pump, lines and gearbox.

The ratio on the non power steering box I think was the same as the power steering box. The ‘57 manual box had a higher ratio plus a bus sized steering wheel for leverage.
 
Yeah, it's quite the cluster F of a system compared to even a 68 Nova. They figured out how to run the PS lines into the box instead of a separate valve and hydrolic ram. I think they all had them prior, even the Vettes.

They have kits out to swap the 62-67 Nova to the newer style PS system but the 62-66 Nova needs a new steering column or cut/graft modifications. It's still in the $700-$900 range for it all, doesn't fix the funky geometry and would be changed out again if I can afford a whole front clip later.

Goofy pipe spacer mod for the win :D
 
The best way is to do the Mustang II front cross member. Get parallel a arms, disc brakes, rack and pinon/ power optional. The stock lower control arms on a chevy ii have an eccentric bolt in the "frame" to hold the camber. The hole in the frame wears out and camber will keep changing.

prob a bit more than 900 thou
 
K85 Octane said:
Yeah, it's quite the cluster F of a system compared to even a 68 Nova. They figured out how to run the PS lines into the box instead of a separate valve and hydrolic ram. I think they all had them prior, even the Vettes.

They have kits out to swap the 62-67 Nova to the newer style PS system but the 62-66 Nova needs a new steering column or cut/graft modifications. It's still in the $700-$900 range for it all, doesn't fix the funky geometry and would be changed out again if I can afford a whole front clip later.

Goofy pipe spacer mod for the win :D
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You did the right thing for sure. My 69 nova had “normal” ps with no ram bs on it for sure. The kit my dad put on the ‘65 impala was normal too. Funny thing is the vettes from 63-67 and 68-82 all used ram style power steering. I think it was a space/packaging problem that kept them from putting a normal ps gearbox on the frame. The ram based system is just as bad on them as on your Nova. Nothing got improved even up to 82. Just as prone to leaks.

I think if I had your wagon I’d save my Pennies for a bolt on front clip and ditch the stupid strut tower based garbage. I know they are speedy but factor in your time to chop/cut/weld putting in a mustang II based system. I bet the cost gets closer if you factor in your labor costs to put that in vs a bolt in clip.
 
Heidts M2 clip. All in with inner panels, power rack, sway bar and Wilwood brakes about $5500.
I like this set up, not a fan of solid mount coilovers or some of the arms other companies do. I like rubber :D

This is a long long way away. After the disastrous retail economy this year, it's gotten farther away :(

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