Stoked to see you did this! I wanna get some LED headlights for my blazer and dig the look and can feel confident if I pick these up now.
CK5
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1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Stoked to see you did this! I wanna get some LED headlights for my blazer and dig the look and can feel confident if I pick these up now.
Yeah, I was worried they would require modification to the headlight buckets and/or the wiring but it was all straight bolt in. From what I read the JW Speaker lights require mods, they are out of my price range anyway.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Ah cool, model specific!
For this truck I like that low cost one you linked because I wouldn't use much anyway. For the 73 I might do something more elaborate but that still fits the factory holes.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Here you go anyways. This probably would be better to try in more of a 100% restored type of vehicle. Even though it not perfect, it's close.
For me, my money it's not worth that kinda cash with other Alternatives out there, I would rather spread the money around.
http://www.vintageautoradio.com/ind...category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=67
For me, my money it's not worth that kinda cash with other Alternatives out there, I would rather spread the money around.
http://www.vintageautoradio.com/ind...category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=67
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Interesting that they had that narrow window with car and truck radios being the same, then they went back to being different. You'd think they would have made them all the same regardless.
Worked on fixing some leaks this weekend. First up was a leaky diff cover. It was a good choice because it also gave me a chance to change the fluid. Here's the inside of an HO72 if you're curious.
The bolts thread into the housing so you have to use thread sealer. They are also fine thread which surprised me. It occurs to me that if the diff wasn't leaking, a person could just pull the bottom bolt to drain the fluid out.
This is the fluid I put in:
I read about it here on CK5 years ago. It's not easy to find parts for these differentials anymore so I wanted to use something that will hopefully help it last.
The bolts thread into the housing so you have to use thread sealer. They are also fine thread which surprised me. It occurs to me that if the diff wasn't leaking, a person could just pull the bottom bolt to drain the fluid out.
This is the fluid I put in:
I read about it here on CK5 years ago. It's not easy to find parts for these differentials anymore so I wanted to use something that will hopefully help it last.
The other leak I had was the rear output of the SM420. I wasn't finding a part number for the seal anywhere on the internets but I stopped in at Napa and he had it in like 5 minutes.
Here's the back side of a SM420. It may not be obvious but note the yoke is held on with a bolt.
You may also notice there is no trans mount on it. Reminded me of @ktmoutfront's semi. The mounts are part of the bell housing; you can just make them out on the crossmember.
I also purchased a speedi sleeve expecting the yoke to have a groove. But it was actually pretty smooth.
After a little brake cleaner and scotchbrite pad:
What looks like large threads is the speedo gear. It's metal and pressed onto the yoke.
Nothing was leaking when I got home.
Here's the back side of a SM420. It may not be obvious but note the yoke is held on with a bolt.
You may also notice there is no trans mount on it. Reminded me of @ktmoutfront's semi. The mounts are part of the bell housing; you can just make them out on the crossmember.
I also purchased a speedi sleeve expecting the yoke to have a groove. But it was actually pretty smooth.
After a little brake cleaner and scotchbrite pad:
What looks like large threads is the speedo gear. It's metal and pressed onto the yoke.
Nothing was leaking when I got home.
I've been wanting to put more factory appearing wheels on this truck but I only have 2 original hub caps and I'm not sure yet if they'll work on the more modern wheels. The original wheels were 2 piece rims.
Anyway I had a thought, I have center caps and lug nuts from an 08 Silverado. But this idea was thwarted because drum brake 8 lug trucks have 1/2 studs, not 9/16. However I found an ebay seller with lugnuts for 1/2 studs and external threads for newer center caps.
New lug nuts versus original
Here they are installed.
I like it. Gives it a cleaner look and still is factory albeit not the same vintage.
Anyway I had a thought, I have center caps and lug nuts from an 08 Silverado. But this idea was thwarted because drum brake 8 lug trucks have 1/2 studs, not 9/16. However I found an ebay seller with lugnuts for 1/2 studs and external threads for newer center caps.
New lug nuts versus original
Here they are installed.
I like it. Gives it a cleaner look and still is factory albeit not the same vintage.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
https://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheels/hot-rod/smoothie-bare-finish.html
Needs these and some whitewalls, but that just me.
Needs these and some whitewalls, but that just me.
Yes, that is the way I'm leaning. With the smooth center dish like the attached. Wheels painted body color or white. I do think that style of wheel looks good on these trucks.
But that's down the road when I have the truck painted back to original color.
To be honest, I haven't decided how I feel about white walls.
Personally, unless your goal is a period correct restoration, I think a few modern details are a nice touch. Nicer tires, maybe wider and lower profile are a nice touch on and old truck like this.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I go back and forth on whitewalls. Some vehicles look good with them and some don't. And alot of times people screw up themes of vehicles. I'm a period correct kinda guy so whitewalls aren't just a tire, they are a commitment. The vehicle has to be right to rock it.
This would look good I think with the white top.
This would look good I think with the white top.
I am trying to keep it mostly original. I will have to make some concessions. The big one is going to be the rear axle. For as much as I'd like to drive this truck, it really needs to have higher gears and you can't get those for the HO72. I'm hoping to at least find a Dana 60 rear end that would be a little closer to original. So I feel like the wheels we're talking about above are the right mix of vintage and custom.
Plus I have done things like the LED headlights and electronic ignition. But I plan to leave the SM420, drum brakes, and carburetor. I guess my big thing is that it's a driver and I'm not worried about driving it down a gravel road.
In regards to wheels, there was this pair of 66 C20's at the big car show. They are both camper specials and they have original 19.5" wheels.
His signs said those are original wheels but I didn't know they did 19.5's. I kinda think it would be cool to run those.
Plus I have done things like the LED headlights and electronic ignition. But I plan to leave the SM420, drum brakes, and carburetor. I guess my big thing is that it's a driver and I'm not worried about driving it down a gravel road.
In regards to wheels, there was this pair of 66 C20's at the big car show. They are both camper specials and they have original 19.5" wheels.
His signs said those are original wheels but I didn't know they did 19.5's. I kinda think it would be cool to run those.
Just did some quick searching and C20 trucks came with 17.5" or 19.5" rims. So I could run 20's and it wouldn't even be out of line. 
You shut your carb mouth!
I like the rims on the trucks at the car show, but not a fan of body color rims. I'd go white if that is the direction you are headed... or 20" bro rims, whatever.
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