CK5
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1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
You can swap an SM465 in place of the SM420 but it will require machining the pilot diameter of the bellhousing or turning down SM465 input. I don't remember which one it was that worked best.
I feel like I read somewhere a while back that the SM465 bolts to the bellhousing differently. Like one of them the bolts thread into the bellhousing and the other the bolts thread into the transmission. Do you know anything about that?
It's been 15 years since I looked at one of them and do not remember the SM420 bolt pattern. But I did find info on the bearing retainer.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=668926&highlight=Sm520+sm465
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=668926&highlight=Sm520+sm465
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Clutch linkage? Hydro swap! Spend all the Penny's!
I mean, maybe. But I am asking because I really don't know...
I want to keep the original clutch. Really trying to keep the truck close to original but also a driver. It would be cool to have overdrive to cruise to some car shows and other events but still have the original gearing. I'm talking about even driving as far as Moab to that car show they have in April.
I don't mind the manual clutch. I think it would be funny to have a hydraulic clutch but still have 4 wheel drums and no power assist.
I don't mind the manual clutch. I think it would be funny to have a hydraulic clutch but still have 4 wheel drums and no power assist.
That I don't know but you have given me another avenue to explore.
I do already have a hydro clutch bell housing and etc laying around that came in the crew cab. If I get industrious I could put that in Nick's K30 and use his mechanical clutch in the 66.
I do already have a hydro clutch bell housing and etc laying around that came in the crew cab. If I get industrious I could put that in Nick's K30 and use his mechanical clutch in the 66.
I also have side mount 465 bellhousings that I think mounts up the same as what the 420s do.
Interesting. Yes, my trans mounts are on the bell housing.
And the starter bolts to the bellhousing.
Yeah I have one of those for the 465.
My friend just did that swap on his 52,straight swap.
That's right I forgot about the starter bolting to the bell housing on this truck.
So the last thing I need to check is the hole I have in the floor now will line up with the SM465 shifter. I don't want to cut a hole in the floor. @imiceman44 do you know if your friend had to change the hole for the shifter in his swap?
Then it looks like the only "mod" I would be making is to drill holes in the frame for the crossmember. Probably have to make one, as I doubt the spacing is the same from a 66 frame to an 89 frame. Well I guess the drive shaft will need shortened too, but that's fine because I've been want to change out the carrier bearing and ujoints anyway.
Your transmission should be just hanging off of the bell without a rear crossmember. Considering Larry has had a cast iron 205 hanging off of an aluminum tailhousing nv4500 on an off road truck, I believe an aluminum o/d can hang off of a cast iron 465 tail housing without a rear crossmember on a street truck.
Although installing an additional crossmember would be a simple affair of drilling a couple of holes I believe. I should have a crossmember you could have that would work.
Although installing an additional crossmember would be a simple affair of drilling a couple of holes I believe. I should have a crossmember you could have that would work.
I have a gear vendor hanging off the aluminum Borg Warner tcase in my Ford. It's super long. The guy that did it built a rear support for it using the old carrier bearing when he went to a one piece driveshaft.
Yes, the transmission is just hanging off the bell housing
My big rig is the same way the 1000lbs transmission is hanging from the bell housing which has the mounts.
It will be fine
In case anyone was wondering, this truck still does work.
Finally did some work on this truck. Installed new shocks that I've had sitting on a shelf for over a year.
With the trailing arms I can barely fit under truck so can't get enough leverage to compress the shocks for install. Luckily installing big shocks on the crew cab taught me the benefit of using a ratchet strap.
Did learn 1 lesson the hard way. Had to feed the buckle end over the top because once the shock was installed, the hook won't fit past the bottom of the shock; only the top. So if you put the loose strap in the bottom you can feed it back out from the loose end. So the first shock was installed twice.
Kinda thought it was interesting the front shocks install just like any squarebody. Guess they stuck with that setup for a long time. I'm pretty sure these shocks were the same part number as my 73 C10
Here are the shocks I took out. Pretty old; I'm guessing from the 70's based on what I know from the previous owner.
Luckily I didn't have any rusty bolt issues.
With the trailing arms I can barely fit under truck so can't get enough leverage to compress the shocks for install. Luckily installing big shocks on the crew cab taught me the benefit of using a ratchet strap.
Did learn 1 lesson the hard way. Had to feed the buckle end over the top because once the shock was installed, the hook won't fit past the bottom of the shock; only the top. So if you put the loose strap in the bottom you can feed it back out from the loose end. So the first shock was installed twice.
Kinda thought it was interesting the front shocks install just like any squarebody. Guess they stuck with that setup for a long time. I'm pretty sure these shocks were the same part number as my 73 C10
Here are the shocks I took out. Pretty old; I'm guessing from the 70's based on what I know from the previous owner.
Luckily I didn't have any rusty bolt issues.
