good ol' air shocks. I remember installing those on muscle cars back in the day for that sweet stinkbug look. 
CK5
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1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
The previous owner that had the truck for the past 40+ years hauled a camper in it. In addition to the air shocks it had a helper spring setup which was interesting for a trailing arm suspension. He took the camper out a couple of decades ago which is why I'm guessing the shocks are as old as they are. Plus he kept receipts and I didn't seen any for shocks.good ol' air shocks. I remember installing those on muscle cars back in the day for that sweet stinkbug look.
The wife and I have been talking about plans for this truck. What we landed on was not necessarily keeping it all original - it's already lost some of that - but we want to keep the driving experience the same. Big thing that means is keeping the manual transmission, steering, and brakes. Also keep the interior as is. When we first went to check this truck out, we knew we wanted it as soon as we sat in the cab. The smell and feel was exactly like my 64 C10.
One of the things I've been contemplating is if I can keep the manual brakes but swap out the drums in favor of discs. I'm pretty sure vehicles came with disc brakes but NO power assist. Thing I'm wondering about most is if I would need a different master cylinder than what I have now for all drums.
But then the other side of me says I should just put new parts in the drum brakes and be done with it. For no more than we plan to drive it, I'd probably never need to touch the drums again.
I had planned to do what I'd call a "preservation" paint job on it this spring. The previous owner just sanded the surface rust and painted over it with rattle can primer. I'm seeing some rust coming thru the primer since it doesn't seal out moisture. Plus primer gets dirty easy and doesn't clean well. The previous owner just masked stuff off to rattle can primer, so I was thinking I could do something similar with a single stage paint. We have a spray booth at the shop, but it's far from what you'd want for a really nice finish. I'd just like to get a good layer of paint on it to seal up the finish and not be the dumb primer gray. With all the virus crap, I'm not sure now if I'll get the painting done this year. I guess we'll see.
One of the things I've been contemplating is if I can keep the manual brakes but swap out the drums in favor of discs. I'm pretty sure vehicles came with disc brakes but NO power assist. Thing I'm wondering about most is if I would need a different master cylinder than what I have now for all drums.
But then the other side of me says I should just put new parts in the drum brakes and be done with it. For no more than we plan to drive it, I'd probably never need to touch the drums again.
I had planned to do what I'd call a "preservation" paint job on it this spring. The previous owner just sanded the surface rust and painted over it with rattle can primer. I'm seeing some rust coming thru the primer since it doesn't seal out moisture. Plus primer gets dirty easy and doesn't clean well. The previous owner just masked stuff off to rattle can primer, so I was thinking I could do something similar with a single stage paint. We have a spray booth at the shop, but it's far from what you'd want for a really nice finish. I'd just like to get a good layer of paint on it to seal up the finish and not be the dumb primer gray. With all the virus crap, I'm not sure now if I'll get the painting done this year. I guess we'll see.
I’m not the one to ask about rust
but having driven several 4 wheel disc brake cars without a booster, they work well at that weight point (3200-3600)
I would think there’s a good setup for these somewhere in a kit, that you may be able to track down and make up parts for cheaper
I’d think a square body reservoir would be big enough. My concern would be the total cylinder displacement of the master cylinder. Never driven a square with manual brakes and disks
but having driven several 4 wheel disc brake cars without a booster, they work well at that weight point (3200-3600)
I would think there’s a good setup for these somewhere in a kit, that you may be able to track down and make up parts for cheaper
I’d think a square body reservoir would be big enough. My concern would be the total cylinder displacement of the master cylinder. Never driven a square with manual brakes and disks
Was it the 79 spruce kabouse that was manual brakes and disks?
@bix ride? Hmmm
MAW
I wouldn't bother with the rear, they stop pretty good, but I definitely put my vote for front disc.
Should be easy enough with stock parts
I don't want you to like my post,
how did it stop with that setup?The interwebs are cool today
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...2LWT0NampZYnimZrFldakJx4fb7HrJKxoCL94QAvD_BwE
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...2LWT0NampZYnimZrFldakJx4fb7HrJKxoCL94QAvD_BwE
I did that on my 70, used 72 parts but I put vacuum booster
$540 ouch
Is the pre 68 stuff compatible with the latter stuff? Master and spindle bolt up?
I am not sure 100% but what I have done in some cases is change the balljoint to the right size for the spindle.
Location was the same.
Well, street legal I am sure he's going to need it but, yes it is his money, I should be pushing him to doeeeeeeet
