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1967 Chevy Malibu Sport Sedan - hardtop

So, not sure how to proceed other than putting the original water pump back on.

Here are the 3 facing from the front:
PXL_20220317_220439857.jpg

Here they are on a table with the level across the two new showing the height difference of the old:
PXL_20220317_220424729.MP.jpg
And a closer view of the difference:
PXL_20220317_220420449.jpg

Any ideas?
 
You need to pull the back cover and support the shaft, not the impeller, and press that flange on further.
 
looking good, anxious hear the results of the cooling system clean out and renew.
 
Thanks all for the help. As good as a flush as I could do there is definitely some residual gunk in there.

Got the radiator and pump all sorted:
PXL_20220323_212850912.MP.jpg

And starting to get some more miles on it. It definitely stopped the leaks coming from the old radiator but the old crusty thermostat housing/water neck needs to be replaced. It's got a small leak that gives me the sweet smell of coolant. Pitting on it was pretty bad and it's leaking at the gasket. When I first put it back together the fan was clearancing itself on the fan shroud under hard acceleration, sorted that today.

PXL_20220323_212907595.jpg

Along with replacing the water neck and keeping an eye on the coolant to see if it stays as clean as it currently is, I need to fix the front seat so it can be adjustable for my wife. I want her to like the car so we can keep it around for the long haul, and liking it would mean being able to drive it.

I have a slight stumble under hard acceleration as well, what would I need to adjust on the 2bbl carb or any clues on how to trouble shoot that? Pretty vague description, I know.
 
Glad it's back together.

The seat track maybe gummed up, after 55 years. More likely the wire that runs across to passenger side from the lever broke. Is a thin wire.
Best pull the seat, remove the tracks, clean them up, check the springs and replace that wire.
The stumble, could be the accelerator pump. Is probably old and not rated for ethenol in our fuel. 2 Jets are stupid easy to rebuild. If yours is still gold colored coating don't let any rebuild company rebuild it. They will remove that coating. GM didn't spend money putting that coating on there for some lazy rebuilder 5o remove it and ruin the casting.
If it is silver natural cast aluminum color then it doesn't matter.
Rant over.
So remove air cleaner assembly. With engine off look down the bore hold choke butterfly open, then open the throttle while watching for a squirt of gas into the bore. Should be a nice steady squirt, for most of the throttle travel.
If you have a nice squirt, could be choke issue.
 
I agree with the accelerator pump diagnosis. May need a thorough carb cleaning and rebuild. A few clogged up passages can make a world of difference in driveability.
 
I fully agree. the carb kit is cheap and the install easy. have you also checked the dwell and timing? These can also contribute. I found 3 mpg doing the Roe modifications to my 74 but a 67 shouldn't be near as fat.
 
80' 427 said:
I fully agree. the carb kit is cheap and the install easy. have you also checked the dwell and timing? These can also contribute. I found 3 mpg doing the Roe modifications to my 74 but a 67 shouldn't be near as fat.
Click to expand...
excuse my ignorance…what is the ROE modification?
 
This car has a 2 jet on it. I have that book and vaguely remember the mod but can't recall if it will work on a 2 jet
 
@ekajkrats ment to mention before there are cast iron t stat housings available. I have cast iron on my 2 gen 1 sbc
There could be a case made for aluminum t stat housings used as sacrificial anodes.
Your call, I have complete cast iron eng, and brass rad, heater core. No electrolysis issues.
 
The complete 2 jet mods are only in the earliest editions of the book.
 
@Wes Harden do you still have the 3 wire alternator or did you convert to 1 wire?

The P.O. did replace the alternator, but kept it 3 wire. It's been having charging problems and found they has just hooked up the charging cable by splitting the wires after the ring terminal had broken.
PXL_20220424_150808602.MP.jpg

Not sure a new terminal has fixed my issue. Was looking at replacing the regulator, but not sure that was worth the investment vs changing the alternator to 1 wire with internal regulator.

Thanks for any thoughts y'all might have.
 
I had the original system, mechanical regulator, some one did put a larger pulley on alt, when it needed a rebuild I went back to original size.

If your wiring is not butchered any worse, and you don't need to power a lot of electrical accessories, the original system is fine.
A 10si is an easy option if your wiring is fubar.

Check battery voltage with engine off. Then with engine on.
You want to see 1+ volt over battery, 1500 to 2000 rpm. Next turn on lights and max blower a/c, or heater same rpm, you should still see 1 volt over battery.
If not it might be ready for up grade
 
Wes Harden said:
I had the original system, mechanical regulator, some one did put a larger pulley on alt, when it needed a rebuild I went back to original size.

If your wiring is not butchered any worse, and you don't need to power a lot of electrical accessories, the original system is fine.
A 10si is an easy option if your wiring is fubar.

Check battery voltage with engine off. Then with engine on.
You want to see 1+ volt over battery, 1500 to 2000 rpm. Next turn on lights and max blower a/c, or heater same rpm, you should still see 1 volt over battery.
If not it might be ready for up grade
Click to expand...
@Wes Harden Thanks for the ideas. Another question, how is your voltage regulator grounded? If it is.

In the second pic below you can see that black ground wire just hanging there. Thinking it may have been attached to one of the bolts for the regulator? Also, my regulator is held on by one bolt, instead of the 3 and it has the rubber vibration isolator.
PXL_20220527_184822086.jpgPXL_20220527_184940335.jpg
 
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