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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

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Ah crap, I'm lost lol.

I've got the piece that mounts right next to the gauge bezel, just in front it seems. Then there is a bracket that bolts to the firewall with a 1/4 round piece sticking out. The column sits against that 1/4 round piece and is held in place with a clamp. That bracket has locating holes for the column's locating "bumps", to keep it upright in conjunction with the little nipple on the brake pedal bracket.

I think that's it. Well, anyway that is all I have. If there is something else :( it's prolly gone. I'll have to get a picture tomorrow.
 
Update:

I gotta keep moving on this thing. The property I live at is being sold and I'm getting a new owner, which scares me. At the same time, my new neighbor is actually that properties owner and he's asked for me to move the C10. (super nice guy, but the C10 IS technically on his property some and he wants to pour concrete for an additional parking space) I hope to get it moved over in the next week and my Blazer will end up in storage yet again.

Work is very busy right now, but the C10 project needs to keep moving. So I got my steering column bolted up. Found out I was missing the strap NorCal was talking about. Found that out when I visited my local yard and found one! lol Now I'm on the hunt for an XJ shaft, since I've sold all of mine including the one I had for the C10. :doah:I'm in the middle of making up some steel plates that will cover some of the areas of the firewall. I wont be welding or smoothing, just covering neatly :D This is the AC box holes, gas pedal area, and around the fuse box. These holes.....







I'm also desperately trying to get my hood and grill mounted up. Once the engine bay is covered I can start wiring and placing things like the computer, radiator, alternator, and all the other things you wouldn't want sitting in the open. But currently I'm fighting this fender to door gap. My doors are set real nice and close really good, so it's not that. Plus, this fender is original to the cab. What isn't original to the body is the frame, so I'm fighting this before I can get the hood on. I had a friend of mine sit on the core support while I got the lower bolt in. It wasn't enough to pull the gap closer and actually ended up bending the fender some. You can see at the bottom, as it goes into the wheel well, it tweaked inward. Loosening the bolt brought it back but I'm still stuck :(


 
Pulling the rest of the carpet out gave me a big surprise. To most of you guy, rust is just something you deal with. I literally started shopping for another cap after I saw this. I already wasn't happy with rusted rockers, but the inside floor stuff seems like a pain. I missed out on a 100% rust free cab for $450 located about 3 hours from me. Was media blasted already too.

I hate rust. I've already bought an outer rocker, inner rocker and floor, kick panel, and A pillar lower.


 
Here's how she sits today.






Also picked out this 14" steering wheel. Will be on sale 30% off during black friday. Just gotta make sure to place the order just after midnight to get one. $95 from this local supplier VS $140 from LMC plus shipping.


119641567.jpg
 
Ordered some copper nickel brake lines after chatting with a member and reading some reviews. 3/16" for all. I borrowed a brake bender and flair tool from another member here locally. Super awesome. I already have the axle line and drop in place. I have some straight pieces of SS that will run along the frame, but I still need all the stuff up front. Disappointed with the "KITS" I bought, I figure I can bend something up 5x as nice with my eyes closed. :waytogo:


EDIT: the rust repair wont happen till waaaaaay down the road. I only bought the repair panels because they were one sale. I need this thing daily drivable before I consider body work.
 
Ahhh, rust ya say....

Welcome to the tack, tack, tack club... :D

Everything is looking pretty good. Looks like you need to raise/shim your cab up a little with the first floor bolt (#1 position on a blazer) to fix your fender. They all came with shims here and there from the factory.

I've came to find out that a nice washer that almost looks like the factory squares are used to hold down your mud sill to concrete. J-bolt washers. Should be able to find them in the Simpson hanger isle in Home Depot.

https://www.google.com/search?q=j+b...v&sa=X&ei=vtRxVKSDLJC2oQS9vYKoDQ&ved=0CDcQsAQ
 
My '70 K 10 had the same problem with the door to fender gap as yours. I used an 1/8" shim under the front cab mount. It doesn't seem correct in my mind as far as keeping the body line straight down the truck from the bed to the cab, but it seemed like the only way to me, other than pulling the nose of the frame down. I don't think it is extremely noticeable though.
 
Well, I have a greater appreciation for the body gaps on all the new cars.

I thought about only shimming the front mount but ended up trying both passenger mounts with 1/4 square shims that I made. Like you said, it seems like it would harm the body lines. I might still try it, since it would angle the cab up that much more. I would about using 1/2" shims on all four corners. That would help I think, without affecting body lines. Would just have to shim the bed and the driver side core support
 
Ya a 1/4" shim under the first cab mount should just about remove that gap.

I bought thick fender washers from McMaster Carr and they have done well for me.
 
Ok, got the fender to door gaps set nice, needed to space the cab up some like we talked about. The grill is in and looks good. I don't have the inner fenders bolted up yet, that looks like it's going to SUCK!! My hood to fender gaps are ~OK and the front corners are flush.

My problem area is with the back of the hood, near the cowl. The passenger side closes well and flat, but the driver side doesn't sit down. It's up about 3/8" above the cowl. Now, I did have the hinges powder coated. I asked for them to only be sandblasted because they closed SOOO nice before. I'm sure the powder coat has made it a little harder to close, if it continues I'll have them sandblast them again. I don't think this is why I'm not flush in the back though.

PS: The cowl isn't bolted down yet, so it looks funny, but it's height is close.

 
Were they new hinges to start with?

A lot of us have had the same thing in the back and ended up buying new hinges.
 
They are the original hinges. The hood closed incredibly nice and smooth before I took everything apart. Now I'm sad :( Out of ALLLLL the trucks I looked at, fixed up much nicer than the one I bought, the hoods never closed as nicely as mine.

Damn
 
Talk to Brian Bp71k5.... He's super smart on that stuff. Maybe you can tweak it some how to work.
 
Will do.

I got my steering column and intermediate shaft in today too. My steering box is from CPP. The splines are the same as the XJ shafts :D So I grabbed another shaft from the local yard and mounted it to the box. The steering column is also from CPP and takes a 3/4"-36 spline. So I used the XJ shaft section and lower coupler, then added a new coupler to connect the 3/4"-36 spline column to 1"DD shaft. Works good, but might consider welding the upper coupler to the shaft. I don't like relying on set screws.

Err, need a picture of that.
 
What you have to do is loosen the rear bolts, the ones that hold the hinge to the fender, slightly loosen the front bolt, then lift up on the hood. It will take the hinge down. Retighten and check. It moves the hood backwards when you do this, so keep that in mind. It should come out fine once you play with it enough.
 
Pull up on the hood after loosening the fender/hinge bolts? Sounds counter productive. lol But I will try it.

Gotta apologize now, I'm probably not going to have an update for this problem for a while. Work is crazy and it looks like rain for the next week :( At least now I'm under my canopy.
 
Yep, 6872 is right. Open the hood all the way up and push the front( near the latch) backward a bit. This will pivot that slotted back bolt downward a bit. Then have someone tighten it while it's down.

Did you ever get the ignition switch off? Here's a couple pictures of a new one. No need to use a key as there's just really fine threads at the end. Maybe your threads are stripped? If so, maybe push the switch part toward the front of the truck while you twist the bezel off. That may help force the threads to back out.

 
Can do for the hood. I'll give it a try.

I got the ignition bezel off. It's tricky actually. On some cylinders you have to turn the key to ACC, then stick a paper clip in the tiny hole in the cylinder. This pushes a small spring loaded ball into it's hole. With it pushed in, you can turn the key a little more and pull the cylinder out. On my truck however, there is no ACC location for the key. So I put the paper clip in, then was able to turn the key left. It still didn't want to come out because my key and cylinder were so badly warn that the key would fall out while pulling. So I turned the key after pushing the ball in, then used a small pick to yank the cylinder out. Worked good.

Can't unscrew the bezel until the cylinder is removed. Thank you Youtube :D

You can see the ball (or button) inside the bezel.

 
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