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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

Overview Gallery Discussion
Wow that key is worn!

I have the same hood problem where the rear sits higher than the fenders. I tried the trick that was described and it helped, but not fully. I'm just going to have to get new hinges to get it flush.
 
Got the bed on the frame. It still needs some adjusting to fix body lines and tailgate spacing. But it's one. The carriage bolts it came with were too damn small and wanted to spin all the time, plus the kit came with lock washers and nuts. Efff that, went to regular hex head bolts, washers, and nylon nuts-- all stainless. Once it's painted, the inside of the bed will get LineX lined. It is going to get used, so I want the seams sealed and everything protected.

Been working long hours. Next time I have light isn't until Sunday. lol

 
Was running a little late this morning, so I got some rain and sun for a picture.

I gotta put this thing on the ground and try to level it out. Then I can start dealing with body gaps etc. The bed is way off right now.







 
Whats your plan compressor wise for your old air setup? I have read mixed things about the vortec compressors working, mostly that they will work fine. I am going to try it but am struggling to get it plumbed
 
If you are trying to adapt things or get fittings, I've seen these guy mentioned a time or two. http://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/compressor-adapters.html

The hardest part with the stock stuff seems to be 1) clearing the frame 2) finding adapters 3) whether or not the pump is variable. I've read you can have the pump altered so it's not variable, which the aftermarket AC companies recommend.

For me, I ditched the 5.3's AC compressor when I installed the motor. I didn't want to deal with it. The Old Air Products unit comes with a Sanden (IIRC) pump already. Because it's an LS engine, I had to buy the $140 brackets that mount the pump up top on the passenger side and move the tensioner with it. Less fuss.

It's funny how different this build is from my Blazer. I think there's only one junkyard part (XJ shaft) on it VS the blazer is covered in them. :D
 
I have some fittings from nostalgic ac, now I just need to get them to clear the frame and plumb everything. Easier said than done, the compressor clears fine its just the fittings. I have read all truck compressors are the fixed model so I am good there. Hopefully I can get it to fit otherwise I will get a sanden and some adapter brackets. I like how the stock compressor is out of sight, keeps it cleaner in my opinion.


These older bodied trucks are hard to do cheep, I have only seen a few in the junkyards and they were picked to pieces.
 
Picture time.

I got my body lines straight. Once the weight was on the wheels, it seemed to settle some. So I was able to remove to passenger side shims I had previously installed to fix a fender gap. The gaps are beautiful (for a stock body) I did have to add a small shim to the driver back cab mount to line it up with the bed. I still haven't had any help to work in the hood but I do have replacement hinges that should solve one of my problems.

Ni-copper brakelines are done but haven't bled them yet. Nervous about that, hopefully all my flares hold. :whistle:

Haven't had much time to work on things, not even the holidays are of any help :doah:just too much going on at work now. :(







 
The last picture is missing the front brakeline. I got it on after the picture and am pretty happy with it. Parallels the rear decently.











 
Only thing left to do on the body before it's drivable is adjust the hood, build a fuel filler inside the bed, and fix the damn tailgate. I can't tell if the aftermarket tailgate is wrong or if the handle is. I put the handle on and it doesn't clear the tailgate when I pull up. Seems it should mount lower in the gate, or the handle made with the wrong ratio...not allowing it to swing out far enough before moving upward.

Here is a picture of the handle mounting holes in the gate. The top dimple runs into the bend of the sheet metal. If it was lower (with a full dimple circle) it would probably mount the handle low enough to miss the sheet metal while pulling up. Not sure but it pissed me off after dealing with all the other crap this aftermarket stuff gave me today. Grrr

EDIT: Actually, it probably needs to move like 1/2"-3/4" away from the bend.


 
y5mgisi said:
Yes being busy at work is a blessing and a curse.
Click to expand...

Yes sir it is, but the only way I can afford this BS we call a hobby.
I do hope to take a week off during the second half of January. I should be able to hit it hard then.

The interior is going to bug me for a while. I only plan to install the gauges, HVAC, and seatbelts for now. I don't have the funds for paint or interior work, so I'll just drive it as is. Luckily, it should be in time for spring/summer so the weather should be nice. :waytogo:
 
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