What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1969 C10

Slow process of putting it back together.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Is replacing these a two man job or can I manage this by myself, replacing one side at a time? Using a broom handle or something to hold the hood open when one hinge is removed?

Mark the hood where the brackets are now to get in the ball park when installing the new ones.
 
Seeing as I left all the stock ac/heater stuff in the truck.
How does this kit look for getting AC back in the truck?

What is it missing that i would need? It says this is for a short water pump but I don't have that mine long water pump.

Original Air Joins the Classic Auto Air Family | Classic Auto Air

Original Air joins the Classic Auto Air family. Together, we’re enhancing our support for classic car enthusiasts with unmatched expertise and dedication.
www.originalair.com www.originalair.com
 
It has a box to check for a custom application at the compressor. Maybe it isn't much different for long water pump.

I know that I have said it before, but I would stick with the factory style to reduce blower noise in the cab and keep the fresh air option, versus the aftermarket kit systems. I tried one, pulled it out.

The Sanden style compressor is a definite improvement in my experience.
 
Is this unit not stock?
I left all the stuff to stay from vintage air, old air etc.
 
TJ1978 said:
I confuse easy, no need to apologize.. hahahahahaha

Is this kit complete? Plug and play type deal?
Click to expand...
It looks to me that it is close to complete, if you already have the evaporator core and housing.
I did not dig very deeply into that description, though.
 
I am not sure if the 67-72 had a receiver dryer (which this kit uses) or an accumulator.
If you wanted to get that kit I would definitely call them and get it adapted for your truck.
 
Dude, these new hood hinges and springs fit worse. The gaps are even more ridiculous and I tried for over an hour moving shit around and the new hinges look worse.

The back of the hood is higher over the cowel, the passenger side is even tighter to the fender even after shimming.

It does open easier and without that metal bang when the hood releases.

But man, it's too damn hot to be f-ing around with this nonsense. I'd rather put the old one back on or just drive with no hood at all.
 
The only place it fits better is the front of the hood to the grille ...the paint already got a bit fugged on the pass ever side. hood. Also the cowel rubber doesn't even poke out the hood is on top of it.

2DF98787-40CD-419E-AFC7-97FAFF603076.jpeg

2A424DEC-E6AF-4DAB-8A23-0D92D6D9659A.jpeg

B4B226DC-880E-40F7-BF2C-03912635107D.jpeg

A64D368F-CD07-430B-BD86-099914AB75E1.jpeg

1B9E18D3-E6FE-4283-81E7-98746C03D104.jpeg

C703087C-948B-4549-A57B-F75D4BB85DFF.jpeg
 
I kept the bolts loose and tried pressing down and it will get more flush but as soon as I open the hood slowly, to tighten it all down it gets jacked up again. I sprayed wd40 on all pivot points as well on the hinges.


Maybe raise the hood stops up front? I don't know. I can't get the cowel area to fit lower. I need some old timer tricks here.

I bought the hood used, maybe it's fugged or something
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom