I don't notice fuel smell in the cab of my 66. It will stink up the garage if I park it with a nearly full tank. 1/2 tank and its fine.
CK5
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Headers I prefer ceramic coating.
I took the gas tank out of the cabs on both of my old trucks because I have never been able to keep a gas cap from spilling gas out when the fuel level was up. A new one only seemed to hold for a little while, then the seal would break in and leak while cornering.
The little gain in cab space is nice if you make the factory seat flip forward as they didn't from the factory.
I did actually see one wreck that was bad due to the tank being in the cab. The kid was running from the police.
But that wasn't really my main reason to move the tank out of the cab, just the spilling while driving.
And yes, a '69 doesn't have a return fuel line, so 2 line pump. 1972 was the first year that I saw it.
The little gain in cab space is nice if you make the factory seat flip forward as they didn't from the factory.
I did actually see one wreck that was bad due to the tank being in the cab. The kid was running from the police.
But that wasn't really my main reason to move the tank out of the cab, just the spilling while driving.
And yes, a '69 doesn't have a return fuel line, so 2 line pump. 1972 was the first year that I saw it.
I would like to move the tank. But I already have a new behind the seat tank, fuel sender. So in a cost saving manner, for now I’m going to keep the tank behind the seat.
That sounds like a good plan, even logical.
But since when do we use logic while building a truck?
Good enough..
Little mock-up..
Little mock-up..
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@Wes Harden
Thoughts? Bolts seem longer than an earlier posts. But? I don’t know. What’s needed is 2 1/4 and 2 3/4 these say 3 1/4 etcI think it’s a typo.. hahahahahaha.
https://www.amazon.com/LatchWell-PRO-9701001-Exhaust-Manifold-Complete/dp/B072HFVPNK
Thoughts? Bolts seem longer than an earlier posts. But? I don’t know. What’s needed is 2 1/4 and 2 3/4 these say 3 1/4 etcI think it’s a typo.. hahahahahaha.
https://www.amazon.com/LatchWell-PRO-9701001-Exhaust-Manifold-Complete/dp/B072HFVPNK
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you mean the collector studs ? There was a spacer or a cross over valve in between the head pipe and manifold. You will not want the valve since the heat riser ports are blocked by intake manifold.
If the exhaust is being made custom short studs will work.
If the exhaust is being made custom short studs will work.
When I switched to a 2 port pump I just stuck a 1/4" fuel filter in the vent hose, allows breathing but keeps dirt out. Since you don't need a smog test you'd be ok, might have a fuel smell on a hot summer day parked
I found an article somewhere this weekend with some dyno testing that included log style exhaust manifolds and rams horns. I also think they included shorty headers and maybe full length or mid length. I remember the rams horn did better than the log style. I think it may have been pretty close to the shorty headers.
Anyway, for whatever that's worth.
Anyway, for whatever that's worth.
Since my break resovoir is empty is there anyway to check to make the rear and front brakes work before I put the bed back on the truck? Or should I add fluid and see?
Lines look good, pull the drums off and have a look at the shoes and hardware. Check for wheel cylinder leaks, and rusty components. If they look good run em! Be aware they may be grabby though the first few times you use them.
Just
Just fill with fluid and check?
I see this but the question was never answered.
What is the length of the bolt that goes through the perch to motor mount?
I assume these are bolt in the pic but I love no luck finding the length. They like 2 inches
When I google “perch mount bolt” I keep getting what looks like clam shell bolt lengths that attach horizontal. I need it to go up through the perch to the motor mount and no way is that bolt 4-5 inches in length
What is the length of the bolt that goes through the perch to motor mount?
I assume these are bolt in the pic but I love no luck finding the length. They like 2 inches
When I google “perch mount bolt” I keep getting what looks like clam shell bolt lengths that attach horizontal. I need it to go up through the perch to the motor mount and no way is that bolt 4-5 inches in length
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By bolts of different sizes and see which one fits.
While I’m not entirely opposed to this. Id Rather not just yet. Ha
Did the bolts come with the mounts?
Looks like the ones in the pic should be fine. 2” seems right to me?
But I’ve never had a truck with that style mount.
Some progress
Cleaned all the metal, vacuumed all the crap out. Sure wasn’t ready for the dirt cloud that came out of the doors.. hahaha
Anyway..
Cleaned all the metal, vacuumed all the crap out. Sure wasn’t ready for the dirt cloud that came out of the doors.. hahaha
Anyway..
Nope... they came with bolts to mount to the engine and the long bolt for a clam shell or tubular frame perch. Not the 67-72 perch
It’s lame. You but the expensive polyurethane motor mounts you get the perch to mount bolt but not the 3 bolts to bolt it to the engine..
You buy the cheap motor mounts you get nothing.
You buy the “bolt kit” and still don’t get what you need
Granted I can be a bit doltish in this stuff but it’s annoying AF spending endless hours looking for bolts.
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Well that sucks.
I would just find bolts in my bins of bolts.
I take you don’t have that so just take the mount with you to you favourite bolt supply and get some to fit. I ‘d get a bolt that uses all the threads in the mount and add the thickness of the frame mount plus the flat washer and lock washer.
