Valve cover bolt. Top rear iirc
CK5
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I put to the back of the block is that ok as well?
Ok for oil dipstick stick, it's a snug fit I may have to give it some oomph to get in but should I use right stuff there to seal it?
Next question which size goes where?
I mocked it up some wires are crazy long...like, way too long
I mocked it up some wires are crazy long...like, way too long
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Ok for the dip stick. Put a bolt in the top and tap the tube with a mallet.
A creeping sealer, is best for the tube. Ideally it doesn't need anything.
Headers ? Sometimes it is necessary to go the other way around the dist cap, to take up the extra length.
If these are for a stock exhaust, with ram horns, the routing is down the back behind the head, looping up along side the block under the manifold to the spark plugs.
That may be where the extra length come from.
Then some replacement sets just don't fit well.
Back of the head is fine for ground probably better, as long as the paint doesn't insulate
A creeping sealer, is best for the tube. Ideally it doesn't need anything.
Headers ? Sometimes it is necessary to go the other way around the dist cap, to take up the extra length.
If these are for a stock exhaust, with ram horns, the routing is down the back behind the head, looping up along side the block under the manifold to the spark plugs.
That may be where the extra length come from.
Then some replacement sets just don't fit well.
Back of the head is fine for ground probably better, as long as the paint doesn't insulate
Hood fits, but drivers side leaves a bit to be desired with the lines. Not sure how to get the fender
The headlights are a bit odd to get on with that weird spring retainer. It's not easy, and I have yet to hook it up yet.
many tips
many tips
Spring 1st then screws
Dip stick is in. No sealer, it fit really snug. If it leaks a down the road I'll mess with it the
I see ram horns, the front 2 wires had a loom anchor at the bottom of the block near the water jacket plug to keep the wires off the exhaust pipe.
There are 2 or 3 more loom brackets for each side. 1 to guide the wires down behind the head. Another under rear two plugs, @ 45* angle to guide the loop of the 4 wires. Then the 2 wire loom to front.
I have rarely seen all of them, lazy Mechanic's would not put them back. Or the replacement wires wouldn't fit if used.
There are 2 or 3 more loom brackets for each side. 1 to guide the wires down behind the head. Another under rear two plugs, @ 45* angle to guide the loop of the 4 wires. Then the 2 wire loom to front.
I have rarely seen all of them, lazy Mechanic's would not put them back. Or the replacement wires wouldn't fit if used.
I don't think I have them... but we'll see maybe I can source some locally
Will be a very specialized item. If I have time I search images to find what I recall and post them.
I had them in abox of parts but they were so mashed up I tossed them. Most of the grooves for the wires were broken off
Easy to a picture.
Thou that dip stick tube is different. Don't think It'll matter much.
I'll figure out the wire path when I get closer.
Left to do
Throttle cable
Lights all around
Upper lower radiator hoses (probably get the bendable universal ones for upper and lower, though finding the right hose length and ID is a bitch)
Tranny cooler lines
Dash cluster
Wiring
Fluids
And probably a few things I'm missing and forgetting and fixing whatever I screwed up along the way.
Left to do
Throttle cable
Lights all around
Upper lower radiator hoses (probably get the bendable universal ones for upper and lower, though finding the right hose length and ID is a bitch)
Tranny cooler lines
Dash cluster
Wiring
Fluids
And probably a few things I'm missing and forgetting and fixing whatever I screwed up along the way.
I see another item to sort out. The exhaust manifold has long studs. Are you going to run the cross over valve the goes there ? Or eliminate it ? I would eliminate, is just a place for a leak. So short studs are in needed.
II'm sure those studs can be removed if needed. Or just change exhaust manifold. But I'd like to keep the Ram horns if I can.
oh yeah they can be removed, are made to be removed. Sometimes they refuse to be removed. soak them with pertinent oil, tap with a small ball peen on the cast iron where the studs thread in. maybe a little heat on the cast iron when you are removing.
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